Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
55 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Thinking about other tools here's an example Of another Chinese tool. In Seattle we have a school sponsored by Rolex teaching professional watchmaking and one of the students who had met had one of these before and one of the current ones I know it purchased one and as we're talking about Chinese tools this is a perfect example. Not something I would ever use but apparently the students like it and this is what was done to it notice it has a familiar sound doesn't it?

All things considered, it worked very very well outside of the box but I did service the entire thing. Disassembled it, cleaned off all the manufacturing oil, polished the pivoting points and then lubricated everything. It now works phenomenally. 

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800157901825.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.2e12f19cloFdqx&gatewayAdapt=Msite2Pc

I do curiosity to see what it cost from the Swiss here's what cousins is selling it for. Yes it does appear to be quite a difference in price.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/hand-fitting-multi-press-watch-bergeon-swiss?code=H40483

 

 

I also have one of these, its a little off target and on my to-do list to disassemble and tweak.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Waggy said:

I also have one of these, its a little off target and on my to-do list to disassemble and tweak.

Me too. The pushers are a good fit in the spindle, the anvils are a little slack in the base. Both seem to line up ok but occasionally need to adjust the anvil's position within the slack on a small jewel. The mating surfaces on both the pushers and anvils are a bit rough as is the base seatings on the anvils. This does need addressing, when practicing i have noticed the jewel doesn't always enter the hole perfectly square on. 

Posted (edited)

I'm about to order one of the horia clones from ali, this will my first jewelling tool, the ali ads are confusing me, when i read the different sellers ads some listing say 4mm&4mm, and then it also says spindle hole 3mm, table hole 4mm, in the same description.

Are the pushers and anvils both 4mm or are the pushers 3mm and the anivils 4mm.

What size did you get when you received your horia clone.

 

Edited by valleyguy
Posted
On 7/27/2023 at 7:18 PM, valleyguy said:

I'm about to order one of the horia clones from ali, this will my first jewelling tool, the ali ads are confusing me, when i read the different sellers ads some listing say 4mm&4mm, and then it also says spindle hole 3mm, table hole 4mm, in the same description.

Are the pushers and anvils both 4mm or are the pushers 3mm and the anivils 4mm.

What size did you get when you received your horia clone.

 

The one i have is pushers 3mm and anvils 4mm. 

Posted (edited)

To add to the topic of Seitz (lever) vs Horia (screw).

Some Seitz presses were shipped with "thickness micrometer" attachment. I was lucky enough to score one of those before knowing what exactly it's used for.

If the zeroing screw is taken out, it effectively performs as Horia tool (pushing down the spindle by screwing in the micrometer screw).

I've documented different variations of Seitz (lever vs lever + thickness measurement) here: https://imgur.com/a/hJALq7f 

Edited by everyonesdesign
Used more proper word for an example (jewel -> spindle)
  • Thanks 1
Posted
10 hours ago, everyonesdesign said:

To add to the topic of Seitz (lever) vs Horia (screw).

Some Seitz presses were shipped with "thickness micrometer" attachment. I was lucky enough to score one of those before knowing what exactly it's used for.

If the zeroing screw is taken out, it effectively performs as Horia tool (pushing down the spindle by screwing in the micrometer screw).

I've documented different variations of Seitz (lever vs lever + thickness measurement) here: https://imgur.com/a/hJALq7f 

Thanks for this I will personally investigate.

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/1/2023 at 5:02 PM, Knebo said:

putting a mainspring into the barrel

20230526_154926.thumb.jpg.3ca056dc9649aed5ac3ae546c2cee401.jpg

Quick note on my earlier post (see above): DON'T DO IT like that. It worked fine once because the anvil happened to fit extremely well. The following 2-3 times it always failed and I had a messed up mainspring.

This approach is actually quite fail safe:

I use Rodico to stabilise the brass tweezers and to ensure that they push down on the barrel evenly. I push down the tweezers with one hand - important is to have a fair amount of pressure so that the barrel can't slip away. With the other hand I pry in the mainspring with a screwdriver (flat side). It hasn't failed me yet. 

I realise that this is off-topic, but wanted to make sure nobody follows my bad example above with the Seitz press. 

20230924_224514.thumb.jpg.8db86533ea27cec6a9afcd5703b1ebaf.jpg

Edited by Knebo
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 6/1/2023 at 5:02 PM, Knebo said:

- putting a mainspring into the barrel

20230526_154926.thumb.jpg.3ca056dc9649aed5ac3ae546c2cee401.jpg

This was interesting! It always feels a bit scary to press the spring down by hand. I believe it was Kalle Slaap who suggested that you should mainly press on the bridle to get the spring down. That is, when the bridle is in the barrel, the rest of the spring will more or less follow into the barrel automatically.

It looks like your pusher has a larger diameter than the spring. Does it really work, or is there a risk that the spring won’t come out of the spacer? Please tell us more about how you proceed!

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, VWatchie said:

This was interesting! It always feels a bit scary to press the spring down by hand. I believe it was Kalle Slaap who suggested that you should mainly press on the bridle to get the spring down. That is, when the bridle is in the barrel, the rest of the spring will more or less follow into the barrel automatically.

It looks like your pusher has a larger diameter than the spring. Does it really work, or is there a risk that the spring won’t come out of the spacer? Please tell us more about how you proceed!

 

Hi @VWatchie, please don't use this technique. It worked once by chance and then always failed. See this post where I point that out:

On 10/12/2023 at 9:36 AM, Knebo said:

Quick note on my earlier post (see above): DON'T DO IT like that. It worked fine once because the anvil happened to fit extremely well. The following 2-3 times it always failed and I had a messed up mainspring.

This approach is actually quite fail safe:

I use Rodico to stabilise the brass tweezers and to ensure that they push down on the barrel evenly. I push down the tweezers with one hand - important is to have a fair amount of pressure so that the barrel can't slip away. With the other hand I pry in the mainspring with a screwdriver (flat side). It hasn't failed me yet. 

I realise that this is off-topic, but wanted to make sure nobody follows my bad example above with the Seitz press. 

20230924_224514.thumb.jpg.8db86533ea27cec6a9afcd5703b1ebaf.jpg

Edited by Knebo
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
    • Help me out here, but with all the advertising on this site (which I don't mind) wouldn't it pay for itself or even make money for the owner ???
×
×
  • Create New...