Replacing Glass In Rolex 1675

[chriz74]

I saw this video and I got inspired. After many horror situations with different watch makers I bought some tools and I am going to replace the glass on my Bulova Snorkel myself. Also I'd like to get advices on how to replace the glass on a Rolex 1675. Anyone?

 

[Mark]

As far as I know it is an armoured glass in those. Do you have the case number? You have to take the strap off in order to get the case number and it will be between the lugs etched into the case. There is a number at 12 o'clock and another at 6 o'clock between the lugs.

[chriz74]

Hello, thanks for your reply. Are you talking about the bulova or the rolex? The bulova is a 714 and yes the glass is armoured. The rolex is 1675 and the glass comes not armoured but there's a retaining ring inside that you have to fit in the new crystal, I think.

[Mark]

Any armoured glass is fitted in the same way as the Omega in that video. As for the case number, yes, I was referring to the Rolex.

[chriz74]

So speaking of the 1675, what would you do as a consumer if a watchmaker tells you that to fit a new crystal in a Rolex GMT 1675 one has to remove the bezel and then the glass (without opening the watch and removing the movement). ?

[Mark]

Isn't it a perspex glass in the 1675? I don't do many but I am sure it is. And I think it has a tension ring. I'm pretty sure you need to remove the movement to reduce any risk of damage to the dial and hands, and I am pretty sure the bezel does not need to be removed. Now - I could be wrong as I don't have one here to confirm.

[chriz74]

the glass

 

 

a mounted glass

 

[Mark]

Oh right - thank you, a picture tells a thousand words.

 

Technically this can be fitted with the movement in and yes, the bezel keeps the glass in place with tension so it needs to come off first.

 

The bezel will potentially get damaged if a bezel remover is not used and it is pressed back in place with a regular glass press, but the nylon dies are very deep set in order to not foul the calendar lens.

 

Personally I would still remove the movement if I was doing this job as protecting the dial and hands is of paramount importance.

[chriz74]

Oh right - thank you, a picture tells a thousand words.

 

Technically this can be fitted with the movement in and yes, the bezel keeps the glass in place with tension so it needs to come off first.

 

The bezel will potentially get damaged if a bezel remover is not used and it is pressed back in place with a regular glass press, but the nylon dies are very deep set in order to not foul the calendar lens.

 

Personally I would still remove the movement if I was doing this job as protecting the dial and hands is of paramount importance.

 

Are you sure the bezel keeps the  glass in tension? I don't think so, it's a moving bezel. The tension seems applied by the retaining ring inside the glass, the one that doesn't come with a new glass, you have to refit the existing one.

[Mark]

It looks like it as the glass you have pictured is quite tall, there are only two ways they are usually secured. A tension ring (as in the Omega above). Or it slips over a raised portion of the case and an out bezel secures it down.

 

But, being a moving bezel then that can't be the case. Sorry i'm not much help here, I rarely get these in.

Maybe somebody else will chime in.

[bobm12]

I haven't worked on those at all and I'm new to this but I've found that whenever you see a moving bezel it is a good thing to remove it in order to replace the glass. This is usually for either protecting the bezel and/or having the clearance to work with the crystal as some bezels tend to have an internal diameter smaller than the actual ring that secures the crystal (underneath).

 

I'm just hoping the above is a good thought considering it is an expensive watch. My alternative would be to send it to an experienced watchmaker and I would strongly recommend to send it to Mark if at all possible. I think there is no need to abound on his qualifications here.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[umecha]

I think the setup for these is similar to the 1680, which you can see about 1/3rd of the way down this page: http://www.watchwallpapers.com/sw.htm

 

There's the retaining ring which is press-fitted over the crystal, then a spring washer which sits on top of the retaining ring, and finally the bezel snaps over the edge of the retaining ring. The washer acts to create friction, so that the bezel doesn't rotate by itself, by making contact between the retaining ring and bezel (via the small lip where they overlap). The bezel can be pressed down (against the force of the washer) to allow it to rotate.

 

That's how it works to the best of my knowledge, but hopefully someone that has experience with them can confirm.

[Mark]

Good find Umecha, that's the one! A very simple job relatively speaking, but a bezel tool is needed to remove the bezel. I don't recommend using a knife as the bezel can get distorted.

[jaycey]

I have replaced the crystal on my 1675.

 

You have to remove the bezel first by getting a case knife in-between the case and bezel and lifting the bezel off. It should clip off fairly easily.

There will be a very thin friction washer below the bezel, lift that off carefully.

The bezel retaining ring then holds the crystal in place. To remove this you have to get a thin bladed knife in-between the case and the retaining ring and gradually working around the ring start to lift the ring. once the ring is removed you can simply remove the crystal.

 

I had the movement in place when I put the new crystal in to centralise the cyclops over the date window. The bezel retaining ring is then pressed evenly over the crystal, friction ring place onto the retaining ring and then the bezel simply clicks back in place.

 

Here is the assembly parts http://www.ebay.com/itm/RETAINING-RING-BEZEL-INSERT-ROLEX-OLDER-GMT-BLACK-1675-16750-/160812131467?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257126648b

Edited January 9, 2015 by jaycey

[chriz74]

thanks, that post explains everything.

[chriz74]

@jaycey what about the ring inside the glass?

[jaycey]

You mean the rehaut ring (part of the case) that the crystal pushes over? That squeezes between the crystal and retaining ring to hold the crystal in place and water seal it. So it like a sandwiche with the crystal in the centre.

Sent from my iBend 6

Edited January 10, 2015 by jaycey

[chriz74]

I mean the one that you can see inside on the dial, like an armor ring. What happens to that when you lift the crystal?

[jaycey]

This is what the case will look like when the crystal is removed.

 

Point A is the lip the crystal presses over. The bezel retaining ring then presses over the top of the crystal to secure it or press it up against this lip.

 

Point B is where the dial will sit when it is installed.

 

Point C is the Rehaut or the inner metal ring that you see sitting up from the dial.

 

 

 

[jaycey]

Another tip.

Before I installed a gen crystal I bought a after market one from here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolex-Crystal-Reference-25-116-116-NEW-CLARK-/251481499503(2 actually)

I used this to practice on. I Used a crystal press with a die that didn't foul the crystal to press it on evenly. This aftermarket one was a little snug, so I sanded the outside edge and used a smear of grease to press on the retaining ring. Went on a charm ;)

The yen crystal was a perfect fit as expected.

 

I must say though, with my eyes I found the Clarks crystal almost indistinguishable. I would have happily stayed with this one if I hadn't already bought a genuine. Clarity, magnification, shape...spot on.

[chriz74]

What do you mean by 'a die that didn't foul the crystal' ? As for the clark it's strange as I got one installed and I find the lens is not magnifying as the previous 116 high domed one that was on the watch.

[jaycey]

The die has to be hollow enough in the centre so it only presses on the retaining ring and doesn't contact the crystal as the retaining ring lowers towards the case during pressing.

[chriz74]

What do you mean by 'a die that didn't foul the crystal'? I have a clark installed at the moment and the magnification is half compared to the original 116 high dome that was removed.

[Mark]

You can get a set of dedicated dies for the purpose, but as I rarely work on these I just modified a couple I already had in my lathe.

 

The one on the left is deeper cut than the one on the right in order to allow the cyclops to not foul the die.

 

 

The die after cut out:

 

 

The original depth:

 

 

Hope this helps.

[chriz74]

Oh ok i got it now. Unfortunately I don't have a lathe to shape my dies.