Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As promised in another post here is the little ladies Bulova Longchamp that I recently serviced. It's a 5.75''' x 6.75''' INT cal.1980 movement which according to Ranfft is also a Durowe 1980 or an AS 1977-5. 17 jewells and a 21600 train.

 

It's my sister-in-law's watch and it came to me because it kept stopping. On the Timegrapher things did not look good; averaging 6 minutes a day slow with a Max Delta of 6 minutes and 20 seconds between positions (yes - minutes!!), average amplitude of 140 degrees, and a beat error of about 4.0ms. About as bad as it gets and still running!!

 

post-73-0-35296200-1421245827_thumb.jpg

 

Dial and hands off there doesn't seem to be anything damaged so hopefully this is just a COA and maybe a replacement mainspring.

 

post-73-0-81868800-1421245836_thumb.jpg

 

Mainspring let down now I can start the strip down.

 

post-73-0-22152900-1421245851_thumb.jpg

 

Balance, pallet fork, barrel bridge, and barrel now out. End and side shake on the train wheels is fine but the train is a bit sticky which does suggest gummy oil.

 

post-73-0-84231900-1421245892_thumb.jpg

 

Train bridge off revealing the train wheels in all their glory.

 

post-73-0-70935300-1421245903_thumb.jpg

 

The stripped out main plate, train side.

 

post-73-0-06394700-1421245980_thumb.jpg

 

Dial side, set lever bridge removed showing the layout of the keyless works.

 

post-73-0-93281000-1421245995_thumb.jpg

 

Main plate now fully stripped.

 

post-73-0-57624200-1421246002_thumb.jpg

 

And balance reinstalled for cleaning minus jewels.

 

post-73-0-74929100-1421246009_thumb.jpg

 

Every thing nice and shiny out of the cleaning machine. The mainspring looks absolutely fine; not set, and laying nice and flat on the bench with no distortion, so I will re-use it rather than replace. Notice the balance pivot jewels and end stones are different sizes. This is something that I always check when disassembling as the differences are not always as obvious as this and if you get the wrong ones in the wrong places it can cause all sorts of fun and games.

 

post-73-0-42510700-1421246059_thumb.jpg

 

Mainspring in the winder ready to install.

 

post-73-0-61776500-1421246074_thumb.jpg

 

Balance jewels oiled and reinstalled. This is when I check the free swinging of the balance and that the hairspring is sitting flat, with concentric coils, and not fouling anything. On movements that do not have adjustable stud carriers I also eyeball the impulse pin through the banking pins at this point and make any obvious adjustments to beat. I don't expect to get it spot on at this stage but it's nice to start off reasonably close, and you never know your luck. This one is adjustable though.

 

post-73-0-65369900-1421246110_thumb.jpg

 

The train wheels back in.

 

post-73-0-88656900-1421246152_thumb.jpg

 

Train bridge installed, barrel bridge reassembled and reinstalled. Everything spinning nice and free with some healthy recoil on just a couple of clicks of power on the ratchet wheel. Train pivots now oiled.

 

post-73-0-36789700-1421246161_thumb.jpg

 

Pallet fork back in and checked for lock and draw before oiling the pallet stones. Balance reinstalled and starts running straight off. I love this moment, it gets me every time.

 

post-73-0-08920200-1421246185_thumb.jpg

 

Keyless works back together and lubed.

 

post-73-0-60613900-1421246226_thumb.jpg

 

And onto the Timegrapher for some tweaking. Not a bad result considering the starting point and nothing has been replaced.

 

post-73-0-23405800-1421246241_thumb.jpg

 

Finally re-cased and ready to go home.

 

post-73-0-02722000-1421246250_thumb.jpg

 

The resulting stats at full wind plus about 6 hours;

 

Position               Rate       Amplitude       Beat Error

Dial Up                +4s/d      282 degrees   0.0ms

Dial Down           +3s/d      270 degrees   0.0ms

Pendant Up        -13s/d     242 degrees   0.1ms

Pendant Down   +5s/d       227 degrees   0.2ms

Pendant Left      -19s/d      237 degrees  0.3ms

Pendant Right   -2s/d        248 degrees   0.3ms

 

Power reserve of >42 hours.

 

I could possibly get the rate and amplitude more consistent with a bit of hairspring tweaking but given the size of this little baby and the (very high in my case) risk of making things worse rather than better I have decided to leave well alone. I know my limitations and when to quit while the going is good. If it were my watch then I may have been tempted.

 

On the wrist (which is what actually matters) it is running close enough to spot on as to not be able to distinguish any error at all after a week of wear so I am happy with the end result.

 

Sorry about the somewhat dodgy point of focus on some of the pics, I hope that it doesn't detract too much. Will try harder next time :-)

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I should point out  that my comments above regarding how the watch runs on the wrist should be considered in the context of the size of the dial and hands, and the lack of a seconds hand and minute indexes on the dial. It could actually be out by 15 to 20 seconds or more and not be noticeable.

:-)

Posted

Allow me to be the first to compliment a job very well done. An excellent project, Great result, and very well authored walkthrough. 

I applaud your methods and results. You are enjoying your hobby, and it shows  :thumbsu:

Posted

Excellent result and superb photos Marc, I really must stop being lazy taking hand held photos at 800ASA.

Posted

Thanks for the comments folks.

 

I must endeavour to post a few more of these, I know how people like pictures ;-)

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well I spoke too soon. Here's where I am now with this issue. I replaced the date jumper and all seemed to function correctly. Fully wound and only in the movement holder, no dial or hands, I let it sit untouched for two days. Both nights it advanced the date. The second night it might have been just shy of fully advanced. Seemed as though I fixed it, so I reassembled the watch. Three nights in a row the date did not advance. Once I pull the crown it does. So you might think that it's the dial interfering, but here's the weird thing. If I advance the date during the day to 11:57p and watch it get to 12:00:30a the date flips with gusto. So here's what I'm thinking and could use your council. I installed a new Swiss mainspring. I used Moebius 8217 braking grease on the barrel walls. It seems to wind quite a bit before slipping, but does slip.  I've read that the 7750 really needs Kluber p125 as a braking grease.  Do you think it just doesn't have enough power after a few to several hours of sitting before the date change? Here are the TG numbers after service:  Rate +1s/d,    Amp 301,    BE 0.0ms   
    • I've managed with the ones I have but 1.8 mm would be better. 
    • Parts weren’t readily interchangeable when this watch was made, and almost every part was adjusted by hand to fit the rest of the parts in that specific watch. That said, it can save time to harvest a part from a donor movement so you can modify it to fit a similar movement, rather than try to make the part from scratch.  With that in mind, it is possible that the click from this watch was removed for use in another watch. I doubt that the other missing parts were taken for use as donor parts. The cannon pinion would be removed properly, rather than snapping it off with the centre wheel arbour and pin inside it.  The Maltese cross stop works were probably removed by a lazy or less knowledgeable watchmaker servicing the watch.  It is very common to encounter otherwise functional watches (including very high end pieces) that are missing their stop work because a previous watchmaker didn’t know how to set it up when reassembling the movement, or was too lazy to bother and knew that the customer would probably never notice.  It is possible that the stop work parts were taken to be fitted to a watch that was missing them.  Best Regards, Mark
    • I posted a link to another video where he takes it a step further and uses the pins to set and adjust rate as well as positional error.  Alex doesn’t manipulate the stud angle after he pushes it in but I find it makes a difference in the spring concentricity and bend.  Amex also doesn’t use the pin manipulation to adjust positional discrepancies.   
    • Brilliant! Very commendable! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...