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Posted (edited)

After a lot of research & coming to the conclusion that that I cannot purchase Rolex lubrications I come up with the following for my rolex 3135.

 

9415 = escape wheel teeth

9010 = escape wheel / balance wheel pivots
HP1000 = train wheels 

HP 1300 = Centre wheel 
D5 = barrel arbour
9501 grease = winding/setting parts
8217  = Mainspring Barrel Wall
8200 = Mainspring 
 
If anyone has thoughts or something I have missed please comment.

 

 

As a side issue my watch & clock activities are on temporary on hold as I have the task of clearing my loft that has at least 30 years of crap in it. Having Solar panels fitted & so need to clear. I know for a fact there are at least three Xmas trees in there somewhere.

Edited by clockboy
Posted

I do envy you working on your Rolex but cannot add anything to you lubrication list. :-)

I certainly do not envy you having to clear out a loft, it would be my worst nightmare! :-(

Posted

Perhaps these figures will help regarding replacing D5 with HP1300.

 

                                 Visc@20C    Visc@40C   Visc Index     VG Class       Oil Type

 

HP1300                       1267              307             167              320             PAO Synthetic

 

D5                               1200            ~300             ~95              320             Mineral

 

These show that the 'thickness' (Visc) of the oils are near enough as to be the same at 20C (ie quite normal temps when worn).  The Visc Index indicates change in viscosity with temp (the higher the better) and the much higher one for HP1300 indicates less change with temp so better choice.  The synthetic oil will also oxidize (age) much slower and has more inherent lubricity (slipperiness) than mineral oil.

 

Therefore suggest you could reduce oil count by one and replace D5 with HP1300 for the barrel arbour as well.

 

I use HP1300 wherever D5 was used before and no problems to date. 

Only downside is that it is dyed red, but the very small amounts used do not normally show as a problem, although for some high end watches this may not be acceptable.    I understand an undyed version is available but only in the larger bottle sizes, so very expensive if you don't service a lot of watches!

Posted

Same as you Canthus, I use HP1300 as a direct replacement for D5.

I actually like the red colouring as it makes it easier to see exactly how much is being applied.

I also find it better at staying where you put it and not spreading so much as D5.

Posted

Is HP1000 sufficiently different to HP1300? I've seen recommendations for D5 for the whole train (apart from balance)...wonder if it's too treacly...

Posted

Hi clockboy,

 

will you be chopping down the trees? :D

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist! I wish you the best with the loft and a quick come back to the activities you like, i.e. watch/clock repair!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

Thanks BOB,

Emptying my loft believe me is no mean feat. Old duffers like me & perhaps Wilfly might appreciate this.

Found a box of LP,s + my old faithful Thorens turntable, sadly the counter weight is missing but in it,s time was one of the best turntables you could buy.

Have not had time to sift through the LP,s but in the front is a SLADE album.

Posted

I would use HP1300 instead of the D5

Also if you have not bought the HP1000 i would suggest that you use HP1300 on the trainwheels also

HP1300 "sans colorant" is without color but if you use the regular one there is nothing wrong

And as last i would not use 8200 on mainspring, modern mainsprings are teflon coated so no need of oiling,just cleaning

br

emso

p.s sent from my sh**y phone, so sorry for typing mistakes

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 1/20/2015 at 4:22 AM, clockboy said:

After a lot of research & coming to the conclusion that that I cannot purchase Rolex lubrications I come up with the following for my rolex 3135.

 

9415 = escape wheel teeth

9010 = escape wheel / balance wheel pivots
HP1000 = train wheels 

HP 1300 = Centre wheel 
D5 = barrel arbour
9501 grease = winding/setting parts
8217  = Mainspring Barrel Wall
8200 = Mainspring 
 
If anyone has thoughts or something I have missed please comment.

 

 

As a side issue my watch & clock activities are on temporary on hold as I have the task of clearing my loft that has at least 30 years of crap in it. Having Solar panels fitted & so need to clear. I know for a fact there are at least three Xmas trees in there somewhere.

Where did you see a requirement for 8217 to be applied on the Mainspring Barrel Wall? Rolex TI says "X" - Do NOT lubricate. Thanks.

Posted
9 hours ago, Poljot said:

Where did you see a requirement for 8217 to be applied on the Mainspring Barrel Wall? Rolex TI says "X" - Do NOT lubricate.

always nice to have a picture so were  all on the same page here. Plus I think the subject has come up before somewhere on the message board?

you will note if you look carefully there is an X in the picture saying no lubrication but there is also a another number pointing to the barrel wall. So you need a breaking grease like p125 or the equivalent and no lubrication on the mainspring itself.

Rolex mainspring barrel lubrication.JPG

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