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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I would concentrate on a single piece of material at the correct thickness. I have a few rolls of narrow thin steel that I sometimes use for making setting levers. Very cheap to buy and will last all of my life, 0.3mm is the thinnest I have. But there are other common place items you can use, stanley knife blades I think are around 0.4mm, single edge razor blade scapers 0.2mm and beard razors finish at exactly 0.1mm, pretty close to what you require. Feeler gauges are also a good option. Fiddling around with multiple layers of foil doesn't sound like fun, and aluminium will compress easily, if not when fitting , then later down the line. Ive found watch paper under a bridge before, probably less likely to compress than tin foil. Sounds wrong putting paper in a watch, but trapped between the plate and a bridge, I cant see a big problem. Besides it will soak up the extra oil from over-oiling 😄 -
By nevenbekriev · Posted
Only the cheapest watches are 'unadjusted' from the factory. See, if the watch is 'untouched', then it is worth to mark the position of the roller and to be very careful not to change in any way the hairspring shape and position. After replacing the balance staff just check the performance and probably there will be not big position errors. But having in mind that even unadjusted watches also perform well when the amplitude is proper, check positions with small and big amplitudes. I work mainly on watches that other people have tried to repair and have failed, this is something like faith... I see alot BAD repairs. There are 'ingenious' ways of 'end shake adjustment' and balance staff repairs I meet I even don't want to speak about (here the term 'previous idiots' is right on it's place). Especially with compensating balances, static poising speeds up alot the adjustment, more - it really helps for the balance truing in round. Of course, everything depends on the aim one wants to achieve. -
Are we talking the same ballgame? restaffed balance wheel ? bend, unbend bridge ?
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Yes that is a nice tailstock. I could not see from the photo it would accept a collet. That is probably worth a few hundred dollars but overall the price is high.
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Funny thing is, I did one before this: a Hamilton 974. My grandfather’s watch. That one needed a new crystal & seconds hand (both missing), a fourth wheel (original had a broken arbor), and a new escape wheel (damaged pivot). The broken and missing parts were pretty easy to fix. The escape wheel pivot issue initially escaped my notice. I was so happy to get it working! Lots of sentimental value.
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