Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That's a nice watch Nigel. I particularly like the hands, the minute reminds me of a Roman gladius. and the hour is like a hunting arrow head, they're brilliant! :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Reminds me of some Dagaz hands and they are awesome! Nice Seiko, only need a padlock so it is safe on the wrist! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the kind words guys, this is an amazing watch, I have seen the youtube videos and listened to folk wittering on about how easy it is to tell the time in a micro glance and how light the thing is you forget you are wearing it... I have worn watches for years and they all normally let me know what time it is....

 

its true... believe me, I have to agree 100% it is a fantastic piece of work... quality abounds here...

 

 

2015-02-04%2021.10.42.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Love Seikos!

 

They are so under-rated as a brand.  As I've posted before ... if anyone asked me what brands they should be looking at for their next purchase: the first company I mention is Seiko.  Whether the budget is $300 or several thousand (a Grand Seiko), my answer is still the same.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

 

My newly restored skx something or other (7S26-0030) mid size diver from Seiko, "vintage":

 

post-253-0-73695400-1425064526_thumb.jpg

 

By the way, if any one know the equivalence between the SKX (or whatever model number) and the 7SXX-XXXX correspondence/equivalence, please post a table. It would be very much appreciated (and useful). Thank you in advance,

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

PS. I retrofitted this watch with the new NH36 (or maybe the NH35 from cousinsUK with day disc added, will have to open again to look. Same thing basically) movement so it now hacks and hand winds (The original movement is complete, working and serviced in a little box in case I want to make it the real thing). The aftermarket dial window is not exactly where it should be cut - a little too low, fixed by repositioning dial feet which I preferred not to do/not worth it -- but at US$6 including shipping I'm not complaining! :)

 

New Movement:

post-253-0-01768500-1425065038_thumb.jpg

Edited by bobm12
  • Like 3

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...