Jump to content

stem crown loctite

luiazazrambo
 Share

Recommended Posts

luiazazrambo Super WRT Addict

luiazazrambo

Posted
Posted

Hi watch and clockmakers,

May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? : loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.

Take care and my bestregards,

Lui

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
Hi watch and clockmakers,
May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? : loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.
Take care and my bestregards,
Lui

I use no loctite for pocket watch crowns and stems as the threads are big enough to have a good grip. For watches, the blue medium should do. Any other thoughts out there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Loctite blue seems to be the most favourite by watch repairers. I never ever used any type of glue. If the button came away from the stem, it would be the inside thread in the button had worn, or some wear to the thread of the stem or both. So I would replace, what ever was needed. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Stevelp Watch Enthusiast

Stevelp

Posted
Posted

I personally have had good experiences with the purple Loctite 222.  Its described as low adhesive and for fasteners that require occasional adjustment so its easy to loosen if all of a sudden the crown would need to be removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Stevelp said:

I personally have had good experiences with the purple Loctite 222.  Its described as low adhesive and for fasteners that require occasional adjustment so its easy to loosen if all of a sudden the crown would need to be removed.

Yeah that's what I have and indeed is weak so to suggest that faith is also required for it to hold.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted
I use 243 which is fairly weak. However, I picked up a pritt-stick style Loctite which is much easier to apply than the liquid, so will start trying that. 
When I can't put my hands on the 222 I use 243 hahaha. Just don't use 638/648, you'll need a torch to get it loose.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

(Going off topic slightly, but I’ll post this while I remember): Someone asked me yesterday which was the BHI-recommended Loctite for securing clock wheel collets to arbors which is 603 (this is when not soldering). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...
dnhb WRT Addict

dnhb

Posted
Posted

I've just tried using some red threadlocker labelled 271 (not loctite) for the first time to secure a replacement pin (opposite the existing boot) & was surprised to find that it hadn't set after 36 hours. I'm wondering if I've not applied it correctly or if the stuff I've got is of poor quality (the blue version, 243, seems ok though).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
Posted

Threadlockers belong to a class of adhesives called anaerobic adhesives. They are resins that polymerize and harden in the absence of oxygen. 

That's why the stuff remains liquid in the bottle but can sometimes set in the narrow tip of the applicator where the surface exposed to air is minimal. 

You can test to see if your bottle is ok by applying some to the threads of a clean bolt and screwing on the nut. It should start to harden in about an hour or less. But only the stuff deep in the threads will set, the excess that is squeezed out to the surface will remain wet and tacky.

Heat also speeds up the set of anaerobic glues. If you are using it in arctic conditions, an accelerator is required.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
dnhb WRT Addict

dnhb

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Threadlockers belong to a class of adhesives called anaerobic adhesives. They are resins that polymerize and harden in the absence of oxygen. 

Heat also speeds up the set of anaerobic glues. If you are using it in arctic conditions, an accelerator is required.

Thanks for the education, Hector. Clearly, the problem was my ignorance not the red threadlocker!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ScrewDropper
      I couldn't find the correct screw, so I made one

      By ScrewDropper · Posted

      I recently repaired this movement but the screw for the ratchet wheel was the wrong size and it was bugging me (pic 1). I tried to find a replacement but I couldn't match the head width and tap size, so I decided to make one.  I wasn't sure of the tap size for the screw, but it looked to be either 1.0 or 1.2 so I made a test screw out of a brass bar, with a matching threaded hole on the other end. I didn't photograph this but you can see the bar in picture 4. I settled on a size and proceeded to cut a steel bar down to length. I softened the bar first to make it easier to work with and the cut it to size, using the chart on my tap and die set for reference Once cut I set up the die in its holder and used my tailstock to hold it straight while I created the thread. Once the thread was cut, I tested it using the brass bar Happy with the diameter and thread I cut the screw off the bar and then twisted it into the bras bar to use it as a holder,  for securing it in the lathe to protect the thread I made a face cut to clean the head up Next step was to make the slot. I currently do not have a table saw for the lathe so I was going to have to use a saw. To keep the cut straight and centred, I made a jig out of a piece of brass bar by drilling a hole big enough to slot over the stew, with a slot in it to guide the saw while cutting the slot on the screw head I then cut the slot with a fine saw (I forget what they're called, pin saw?). Once that was done, it was ready for hardening and tempering and then a first polish from 800 grits to 2000 on the lathe. The picture below is just before the first polish. Once I got it to polished with 2000 grit, I removed it from the lathe and then polished it with diamond paste and a Dremel, using the brass bar to hold it. (this turned out to be a really useful tool) Finally, it was ready to go into the movement. I am pleased with the result. I should have made it flatter to match the crown wheel screw better but, overall, it is a vast improvement on the screw that was in there. The main thing I took away from this was how useful the brass bar was, not just for testing the thread but as a holder in the lathe, for cutting the slot and for handling when polishing. No trying to hold it with tweezers or a vice. It was a really simple tool to make and really worth the 10 minuets or so to make it and cut the threads. The slot guide was a huge bonus because it worked much better than expected.
    • nickelsilver
      Who's doing what in the world of watches today.

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I finished a couple of pinions I started yesterday, read up on Breguet hairsprings, made a balance staff, fixed my tool and cutter grinder, and in between checked in here. Having a (2rd) pint with the missus now 😍.
    • RichardHarris123
      Who's doing what in the world of watches today.

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I've been called a vintage tool many times .
    • MariusJacob
      Who's doing what in the world of watches today.

      By MariusJacob · Posted

      I must update myself, I guess nowadays the lubrication procedures and assembly protocols have improved or, at least, changed.  I hope there is still hope for vintage tools in this area.   
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Who's doing what in the world of watches today.

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Lol ok, well I'm not about to explain it, I'm a bit fuzzy on it myself, I'll get it all arse about face.....actually that might be part of it, now I come to think about it. 
×
×
  • Create New...