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Posted

Hi I am trying to get an old russian vostok clock working. The escapement was not engaging and the clock just free wheeled until the spring ran out of energy. When I disassembled it the pallets were rotated 45 an 60  degrees up from the plane of the gear. I was able to return one to true but the other popped out. Just had a frustrating hour trying to replace the pallet. Is there a trick or is it a fools errand??? They seem to be  a push fit

 

 

 

Posted

The pallet stone needs to be re-seated. You need to clean the stone of everything that is on it, this includes the part of the pallets that the stone fits in. This is not a job for someone that has little or no experience. Watch/clockmakers shellac should be used to set the stone. It has to be the correct angle, this includes depth and height. Do not use any of the quick hardening glues that are available as they act so fast you will not be able to adjust the stone. If you intend to undertake this work I can list the tools you will need.

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Posted

Before you clean the fork, see if you can find where the pallet was seated in the slot before, try to find the old signs left by dirt or shellac on the slot.

 

 

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Posted

Thanks guys. I think that means the job is beyond me. I'm sure after much swearing I could get it randomly sited but couldn't hope to achieve the precision required. Is there any resource to buy a new part. There is a whole new escapement on ebay for $70

vostok.jpg

Posted

With this platform you need to find out if it will fit to engage the teeth of the wheel see photo and arrow, this part must be clear from the wheel it is to engage, you also need to find the leaf count, in other words it must have the same amount of teeth as the original.  

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    • Good stuff, thanks!!!  I'm going to save it and re-read your post and watch the video again.  I have a few follow-up question:  My understanding is that the spring vibrates or breathes between the the two regulator pins. When the pins are fully open the effective spring length is from the stud and theoretically no rate adjustment can be made by moving the regulator arm. As the pins are closed the spring gets closer to one side of the regulator block but doesn't touch a pin. You can still move the regulator carrier the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils.  The rate can now be adjusted using the regulator because the effective spring length can be modified.  My question is: Does the hairspring bounce off and touch one of the pins as it breathes? Is that why the effective hairspring length is adjusted by moving the regulator?  And follow-up: How is amplitude affected by the spring between the pins? Does fully open pins, dial up position = max amplitude?  When spring adjusted to 1/2 width still = max amplitude? When I have crown down gravity is pulling the spring against one of the pins and I would expect rate to go up and amplitude to go down. Is that correct?
    • A quick Google for Longines 25.17 found several similar watches - like this one with writing on the case back similar to yours https://benjaminmarcello.nl/product/longines-cal-25-17-tank-from-1938/
    • Apps like Watch Accuracy Meter can be inaccurate, and will read some watches better than others.  What daily rate does Watch Accuracy Meter give you if you check the Longines once it’s been running for 24 hours? Best Regards, Mark
    • Then, can I replace it by purchasing a regular ruby with the same or similar width and height and pivot groove size from eBay? If I replace it like the above and operate the movement, will there be no problem?
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