Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everybody 

I am dealing with a vintage watch named Strato (bought on ebay in a lot, BTW if you have info about the brand you are welcome) 

I took out the movement, removed the hands, and I was going to take out the dial. 

I am not finding the way!!! 

There is a protective ring all around, no seeable screws, I don't want to force it. The ring can rotate for a while (20 °) clockwise and and in the other sense, but I can't see anything from the stem hole. 

Any idea or suggestion? 

Please see picture below

IMG-20200617-WA0005.jpeg

IMG_20200617_154445.jpg

IMG_20200617_154459.jpg

Posted

Hi Buf,

While I can't say I've ever worked on a Strato personally, one of my recent jobs was servicing a friends HMT. It seemed to be held by a single dial retention screw, the hole was there for the other just no sign of the screw, but removing these did nothing. Took me a while to figure out someone had glued the dial back on at some point . After a bit of gentle levering with some pegwood, I could see the dial was lifting but was pulled back down. I managed to free it using several bits of pegwood worked into the gap from opposite sides.

Looking at the picture of the rear of the movement, are the holes at the 1 and 7 o'clock positions for securing screws or are they the dial feet protruding slightly? Does the dial move at all if you apply gentle pressure to them? 

James

IMG_8897.JPG

IMG_8955.JPG

Posted (edited)

It appears that there is still a movement spacer ring fitted to the movement, masking the edge of the movement and the dial foot screw holes.

As OH says it should just pull off as the clamping screws are absent.

Edited by Marc
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Good stuff, thanks!!!  I'm going to save it and re-read your post and watch the video again.  I have a few follow-up question:  My understanding is that the spring vibrates or breathes between the the two regulator pins. When the pins are fully open the effective spring length is from the stud and theoretically no rate adjustment can be made by moving the regulator arm. As the pins are closed the spring gets closer to one side of the regulator block but doesn't touch a pin. You can still move the regulator carrier the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils.  The rate can now be adjusted using the regulator because the effective spring length can be modified.  My question is: Does the hairspring bounce off and touch one of the pins as it breathes? Is that why the effective hairspring length is adjusted by moving the regulator?  And follow-up: How is amplitude affected by the spring between the pins? Does fully open pins, dial up position = max amplitude?  When spring adjusted to 1/2 width still = max amplitude? When I have crown down gravity is pulling the spring against one of the pins and I would expect rate to go up and amplitude to go down. Is that correct?
    • A quick Google for Longines 25.17 found several similar watches - like this one with writing on the case back similar to yours https://benjaminmarcello.nl/product/longines-cal-25-17-tank-from-1938/
    • Apps like Watch Accuracy Meter can be inaccurate, and will read some watches better than others.  What daily rate does Watch Accuracy Meter give you if you check the Longines once it’s been running for 24 hours? Best Regards, Mark
    • Then, can I replace it by purchasing a regular ruby with the same or similar width and height and pivot groove size from eBay? If I replace it like the above and operate the movement, will there be no problem?
×
×
  • Create New...