Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

Recently I have inherited a hand wound mechanical J.W.Benson watch from 1956 from my grandfather. It's looks in good condition, however it doesn't work. I have wound the watch but still doesn't work.

I would really like to repair the watch myself and get it working. Would anyone be able to provide some advice on how to get it working and were to start?

I would like to start doing this to other watches as well, can anyone recommend any tutorials on YouTube? Or books?

What oils will I be required to buy? After doing some research seems to be so many options! 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks 

Posted
32 minutes ago, Ross95 said:

Recently I have inherited a hand wound mechanical J.W.Benson watch from 1956 from my grandfather.

do you value this watch in any way? If the answer is yes then it's not going to be the first watch you repair your going to start on something disposable. On the other hand if you don't care about the watch that can be your first watch to repair. Everybody starting watch repair has an unfortunate habit of breaking things. It's part of learning watch repair and unfortunately breaking things especially vintage things usually does not end well.

then can we have a picture of your grandfather's watch?

  • Like 3
Posted

Hey!  I've been watching lots of videos of someone called Mark Lovik as he takes apart watches and puts them back together.  He's also got a four part course on watch repair.  I haven't taken it yet because I sort of feel like you should just buy all the tools first, as well as the practice movement, and probably a case and stuff to make a complete watch during the course.  Then I sort of found it was a little too distracting when I started just buying watches.

It's all on YouTube including a video on specifically what you need to get to build the learner watch.  Anyway you're supposed to buy a cheap Chinese movement that is a clone of a Swiss movement in order to take the course, and then he supposedly uses the same one.  You set up your work area, sharpen your tools, and very slowly start pulling things apart I guess.  It really looks amazing and its totally well reviewed.  You should do that.

Also, Mr. Lovick has a large number of videos of high-end watches being assembled as well as cheap watches.  Sometimes he even troubleshoots what's gone wrong, such as a clump of dirt left behind on the balance wheel,.  It's really amazing!  Good luck!

Posted

I think you will enjoy your new watch more if you have a professional get it working right away and then pursue the hobby in its own right that's just my opinion.

  • Like 1
Posted
37 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

do you value this watch in any way? If the answer is yes then it's not going to be the first watch you repair your going to start on something disposable. On the other hand if you don't care about the watch that can be your first watch to repair. Everybody starting watch repair has an unfortunate habit of breaking things. It's part of learning watch repair and unfortunately breaking things especially vintage things usually does not end well.

then can we have a picture of your grandfather's watch?

Thank you very much for the reply,

I'm not sure what the value of the watch is, however as you stated I will definitely be practicing before attempting to fix that particular one. I do have an old cheap pocket watch to practice with. However can you recommend what any other cheap watchs I can practice on and where I can buy them.

I will upload some pictures of the watch shortly. 

Thanks

 

Posted
Hey!  I've been watching lots of videos of someone called Mark Lovik as he takes apart watches and puts them back together.  He's also got a four part course on watch repair.  I haven't taken it yet because I sort of feel like you should just buy all the tools first, as well as the practice movement, and probably a case and stuff to make a complete watch during the course.  Then I sort of found it was a little too distracting when I started just buying watches.
It's all on YouTube including a video on specifically what you need to get to build the learner watch.  Anyway you're supposed to buy a cheap Chinese movement that is a clone of a Swiss movement in order to take the course, and then he supposedly uses the same one.  You set up your work area, sharpen your tools, and very slowly start pulling things apart I guess.  It really looks amazing and its totally well reviewed.  You should do that.
Also, Mr. Lovick has a large number of videos of high-end watches being assembled as well as cheap watches.  Sometimes he even troubleshoots what's gone wrong, such as a clump of dirt left behind on the balance wheel,.  It's really amazing!  Good luck!
Mark started this forum [emoji6]
Posted
12 minutes ago, ro63rto said:

Mark started this forum emoji6.png

Started, managed, and funded it since the beginning. Considering that It would be just fair that beginners and others would consider enrolling in his excellent training at watchrepairlessons.com, or becoming a Patron. That much  I did myself too.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Ross95 said:

However can you recommend what any other cheap watchs I can practice on and where I can buy them.

Please use the search box above, or even just browse around, to get most answers - including "where do I start from", without having to wait for other's answers, which will be always the same as given previously.

Posted

Your watch is based on a high grade version of a Smiths Cal.1215 movement, having amongst other things, an up-graded jewel count from 15 to 18, and an up-graded balance with an over-coil hair spring. It is a really nice English made movement.

The case also appears to be solid gold so should have a hall mark which will date the watch, but I suspect mid 1950's. It's probably either a Dennison or a BWC.

This really should not be your first or second watch to work on as although not exactly rare, spare parts are not common, and less so for the variant that you have. It's also not a cheap watch. Check here for an idea of the kind of prices they can fetch.

It is a really nice watch though and represents the very best of English watch manufacturing. Definitely one to look after.

 

Posted

What Marc said - that’s a very fine English-made watch. Quite valuable. Much less common than your average Smiths or JWB. 
 

I usually don’t try to put people off jumping in at the deep end, but in this case I am - you’ll struggle to find some spare parts for this if you make any errors. In particular, the balance/hairspring which is very rare and also the KIF antishock arrangement. 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well I spoke too soon. Here's where I am now with this issue. I replaced the date jumper and all seemed to function correctly. Fully wound and only in the movement holder, no dial or hands, I let it sit untouched for two days. Both nights it advanced the date. The second night it might have been just shy of fully advanced. Seemed as though I fixed it, so I reassembled the watch. Three nights in a row the date did not advance. Once I pull the crown it does. So you might think that it's the dial interfering, but here's the weird thing. If I advance the date during the day to 11:57p and watch it get to 12:00:30a the date flips with gusto. So here's what I'm thinking and could use your council. I installed a new Swiss mainspring. I used Moebius 8217 braking grease on the barrel walls. It seems to wind quite a bit before slipping, but does slip.  I've read that the 7750 really needs Kluber p125 as a braking grease.  Do you think it just doesn't have enough power after a few to several hours of sitting before the date change? Here are the TG numbers after service:  Rate +1s/d,    Amp 301,    BE 0.0ms   
    • I've managed with the ones I have but 1.8 mm would be better. 
    • Parts weren’t readily interchangeable when this watch was made, and almost every part was adjusted by hand to fit the rest of the parts in that specific watch. That said, it can save time to harvest a part from a donor movement so you can modify it to fit a similar movement, rather than try to make the part from scratch.  With that in mind, it is possible that the click from this watch was removed for use in another watch. I doubt that the other missing parts were taken for use as donor parts. The cannon pinion would be removed properly, rather than snapping it off with the centre wheel arbour and pin inside it.  The Maltese cross stop works were probably removed by a lazy or less knowledgeable watchmaker servicing the watch.  It is very common to encounter otherwise functional watches (including very high end pieces) that are missing their stop work because a previous watchmaker didn’t know how to set it up when reassembling the movement, or was too lazy to bother and knew that the customer would probably never notice.  It is possible that the stop work parts were taken to be fitted to a watch that was missing them.  Best Regards, Mark
    • I posted a link to another video where he takes it a step further and uses the pins to set and adjust rate as well as positional error.  Alex doesn’t manipulate the stud angle after he pushes it in but I find it makes a difference in the spring concentricity and bend.  Amex also doesn’t use the pin manipulation to adjust positional discrepancies.   
    • Brilliant! Very commendable! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...