Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

From what I can find on multiple online forums, I get the impression that fitting a chrono second hand on a mechanical watch is as simple as putting the hand back like the others, but I also read (not movement specific) that there's a special way to do this in order for it to reset correctly.

My issue is with a Zenith Cal 400 in a Class El Primero. I re-lumed the hour and minute hands, and after putting them back, the chrono second hand isn't resetting to the 12 o'clock position. Is there a special process I need to follow to fit the chrono second hand correctly?

Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

Posted

Did you ensure you had the pusher down when you set it? If not it's going to reset to the same place which isn't 12.

Also if it's not the same place every time then I would look to see if the hand is now loose. It needs to be a tight fit in order to stay in the same place when reset die to the sheer amount of force a reset produces .



Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

Posted

I didn't do the pusher part because I didn't have a way to hold the watch securely while setting the hand and pushing the pusher at the same time. Would this be the reset pusher or the start/stop pusher?

As for the tightness, it's still very difficult to remove the hand, although I am not sure if that means it's fit tightly. What's the best way to test this?

Thank you!

Posted

the problem with chronograph sweep second hands is they have to go on really really tight.. This is because when they returned to zero there is a whole lot of force put on them. So if they are not super tight and they return the zero they tend to wander around..  this means  when pushing at hand on a lot of force is required you have to support the backside  otherwise you'll knock stuff out of alignment on the backside..

Then usually when putting chronograph hands-on if you want them to be in the zero position  as pointed out above you usually have to hold the return to zero button firmly in place  so the heart-shaped cam is locked in place at zero..  otherwise when you push the return to zero depending upon the mechanism a lot of times a return to zero but it will lift off that means we putting the hand on if you turn at all it's free to turn.

the preferred  for putting their hands back on especially the sweep second is a special movement holder specific for this watch. It will support the backside so nothing gets knocked out there and it will have a return to zero button

59 minutes ago, FusionTimer said:

From what I can find on multiple online forums, I get the impression that fitting a chrono second hand on a mechanical watch is as simple as putting the hand back like the others

I like the word simple obviously anyone who told you was simple to put a chronograph sweep second hand on  has never done it before..

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
I didn't do the pusher part because I didn't have a way to hold the watch securely while setting the hand and pushing the pusher at the same time. Would this be the reset pusher or the start/stop pusher?
As for the tightness, it's still very difficult to remove the hand, although I am not sure if that means it's fit tightly. What's the best way to test this?
Thank you!
Pushing the reset down will ensure the pinion is in the reset position , not holding it means you can push and move it so it might not be in the correct position when you reset it

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

Posted

Thank you all for the info!

One other question, maybe I’m thinking too much about this, but I see two ways of holding the reset button:

1. Start and stop Chronograph, then press and hold reset, and fit the hand.

2. Chronograph is already reset, press and hold reset and fit the hand.

Which is the correct way?

Posted

I would say First way as you feel the full reset and know it's nots going anywhere as you haven't lift your finger back up

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Tool for removing or pressing the bezel? Most likely you have to remove the bezel (with a knife) before removing old crystal or inserting a new one. You can press the bezel with the crystal press if you have a suitable die with straight walls or otherwise a die that has enough clearance that it doesn't touch the crystal when pressing the bezel.
    • This will be my first crystal replacement, I have a press, but looking at the watch I wonder if I might need a bezel tool also. Any and all help appreciated. 
    • I'm not entirely sure you fully understand what he's doing in the video. For one thing he's giving examples of things like about 16 minutes he talks about opening up the regulator just a little bit. Opening up the regulator slows the watch down to compensate for that he moves the regulator fast and now it's keeping time again but the regulator pins are too far apart. I have an image down below on top of it shows the effect of regulator pins and amplitude. If the regulator pins are farther apart than the example down below then at a higher amplitude timekeeping will be much worse. Why the regulator pins are supposed to be adjusted as an average rule approximately twice the thickness of the mainspring itself. In other words if you look at the spacing it have one half of the hairspring thickness on either side of the hairspring itself. There is like he talks about the video a little bit of adjustment here and there. So in his example where he opened them up it will really dramatically screw up timekeeping based on amplitude. Then when you get to the 20 some minutes like you say he is adjusting the regulator pins closer together to get a more even timekeeping based on amplitude and amplitude changes are caused by going to various positions. Then and the other example of the image down below regulator pins too far apart and they hairspring is not centered and look what that does the timekeeping. So hairspring is supposed to be centered regulator pins are supposed to properly spaced. Then you get reasonably even timekeeping like it shows in the upper image. It's not like we're regulating out positional errors like poising errors because that's something entirely different.   In the part number above and in the video both of you left off details. I which version of either of your watches I will just make you's timing specifications for your watch down below may specify how you're supposed to do it other words you wind up the watch fully wound up you wait 10 to 60 minutes in the four positions it should be within 60 seconds. Yes it can be closer but you may not actually get zero.     Now let's compare with the 2892 and see where we might have a discrepancy. First off we have a problem of which one is a using did he use the chronometer grade 1 or the top grade or what?  None is basically just much tighter timing tolerances. So when he's using an example watch conceivably might be a chronometer grade watch then things are going to be much more  perfect than what you're going to see.       NH35_TG.pdf ETA 2892-A2 Manufacturing info.pdf
    • Note the 8992 is 850 pounds for a liter. I think this is really for industrial settings like they say, where it would be used as a final bath in a 20,000 buck cleaning machine. I use the 8981.   That is excellent- I don't often get to see a serviced watch 5 years later, but when I do I expect to see pretty much the same oiling on the balance jewels as when it went out. I think at that area, being essentially sealed, it really should remain fairly pristine for likely 10 years. It's why some makers go to the trouble to use cap jewels on the escape wheel as well- not so much for friction reduction, but to keep the oil longer where it really counts.
×
×
  • Create New...