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Posted

Another $5US pick up. Interesting jump hour or "digital" watch. Not sure why the long tub on the stem. Too bad on the cracked acrylic as probably won't find a replacement. Has a BF 866 that had a tweaked hairspring, broken pivot on the escape wheel, and missing pin pallet and cock and screw. Luckily I had a donor movement that had a completely toasted hairspring that I was able to scrounge from. Also got the hairspring sorted out enough to run (still needs work).

Found a new use for a jewel picker that Alex Hamilton recommended for use on the balance jewels shock spring; that brass pin that holds the hairspring in the stud, use the jewel picker to hold the pin straight out to reinsert in the stud hole!

DSCN6120~3.JPG

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Got a text from a friend letting me know the local Habitat for Humanity Re-Store just got a bunch of watches in, so I ran over for a drive and found a few really neat thing!

First off is this Cimer ladies' watch for $1. I had a hunch it had radium lume, so I had a rock-collecting friend test it with his scintillator, and sure enough it looks like it. Here it is with and without UV light.

IMG_20240914_144800.thumb.jpg.b4b31c82e4a922bcb4d3f4768fe3db81.jpgIMG_20240914_144754.thumb.jpg.c81200cc13ecc287bddb8022e3696166.jpg

Then there was this miniscule Westclox ladies' watch for $1.

IMG_20240914_150048.thumb.jpg.44e08feb672c2c3e3be6e2941b5e848c.jpg

Vintage Timex, $1.

IMG_20240914_150005.thumb.jpg.c9d84f7f5e9bc22dfb249194daee9202.jpg

The rest don't technically qualify for the 404 club, but since I got them at the same time: a Biltmore pocket watch for $8, these two Timexes for $6 and $10, and a Galco stopwatch for $20. Inside the back it says "Jules Racine & Co."

IMG_20240914_145944.thumb.jpg.b0c193cd6893f51f6402cde98af571b7.jpgIMG_20240914_150024.thumb.jpg.0ee5789bbf05ab7a28df3cd2c215455c.jpgIMG_20240914_145925.thumb.jpg.bb905d0646b6bd0a08c8f00c24ec83fd.jpg

 

Edited by ManSkirtBrew
  • Like 6
Posted

There's the 10:10 club for most of the rest of your haul. Sounds like a ritzy ReStore! I don't think I've ever seen watches or anything even watch adjacent at the one near me!

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
On 9/13/2024 at 7:16 PM, Razz said:

Another $5US pick up. Interesting jump hour or "digital" watch. Not sure why the long tub on the stem. Too bad on the cracked acrylic as probably won't find a replacement. Has a BF 866 that had a tweaked hairspring, broken pivot on the escape wheel, and missing pin pallet and cock and screw. Luckily I had a donor movement that had a completely toasted hairspring that I was able to scrounge from. Also got the hairspring sorted out enough to run (still needs work).

Found a new use for a jewel picker that Alex Hamilton recommended for use on the balance jewels shock spring; that brass pin that holds the hairspring in the stud, use the jewel picker to hold the pin straight out to reinsert in the stud hole!

DSCN6120~3.JPG

Update: went to cousins' house and found they have parts for the BFG 866 and the crystal dimensions seem to match so ordered one! Also order a tap7 crown and another stem in case I jack this one up or to use in the donor movement...thinking on a red strap for the old RWB look...

DSCN61212.thumb.JPG.799ec400ea2a70a1600a33e23935c32c.JPG20240915_1012262.thumb.jpg.15238afc6b1a10ce301cd222cdab2ba7.jpg

Edited by Razz
Added photo
  • Like 3
Posted
On 9/14/2024 at 7:50 AM, ManSkirtBrew said:

 

Looks an awful lot like this Lucerne Digital that I restored a few years ago. I paid a lot more than $5 for it!

One jewel, pin-pallet movement, but it ticks away like mad and is a great conversation piece.

20221227_123308.thumb.jpg.f8fb29abf073e96ba87ea641e197ffeb.jpg

 

On 9/15/2024 at 1:11 PM, Razz said:

Update: went to cousins' house and found they have parts for the BFG 866 and the crystal dimensions seem to match so ordered one! Also order a tap7 crown and another stem in case I jack this one up or to use in the donor movement...thinking on a red strap for the old RWB look...

DSCN61212.thumb.JPG.799ec400ea2a70a1600a33e23935c32c.JPG20240915_1012262.thumb.jpg.15238afc6b1a10ce301cd222cdab2ba7.jpg

I considered getting one of these jump hour watches.  Most all seem to be zero or one jewel pin pallet movements.  Trying to get all of those pivots to line up into the one bridge just seems like quite a hassle.  But it would be a good conversation piece.

I think I like the red band for that watch.  Makes it stand out more.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

IMG_20240917_134249.thumb.jpg.9edbf9add7029c03626f386427ba1ab3.jpg

 A Russian (USSR era) Poljot 2409 "Field Watch" joins the club today.

AsPurchased2Cropped.jpg.f57e82a95b1d875a458bb5f23df49c0e.jpg

AsPurchased1Cropped.jpg.8ae08bc79efc4bba6ec89b05094aead0.jpg

This is actually smaller than perhaps it looks, with a lug width of only 16mm (although having said that a real "Dirty Dozen" was only 18mm). Ironically it is on a "NATO" strap. It worked just fine when it arrived, so other than a case spruce up, I've not done anything with it yet. It will eventually get serviced when I have a spare moment or two.

The lume on it is surprisingly good, considering its age.

I presume it is probably from the late 1970s through to perhaps the mid 1980s, but I'm no expert

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 3
Posted
On 9/15/2024 at 12:11 PM, Razz said:

Update: went to cousins' house and found they have parts for the BFG 866 and the crystal dimensions seem to match so ordered one! Also order a tap7 crown and another stem in case I jack this one up or to use in the donor movement...thinking on a red strap for the old RWB look...

DSCN61212.thumb.JPG.799ec400ea2a70a1600a33e23935c32c.JPG20240915_1012262.thumb.jpg.15238afc6b1a10ce301cd222cdab2ba7.jpg

Update: cannot beleive that cousins had this exact acrylic! Now working on the correct crown 1.2mm or tap 7, I thought..seems Japanese style crown sizes are more straight forward and tap 12 is 1.2mm...20240921_1442593.thumb.jpg.ec198cb42fcd12c1797fe2d7373f8919.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Good to know on the crystal! I'll probably snag one in my next order for when I get around to that watch! Care to share a part number or link?

Edited by spectre6000
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

Good to know on the crystal! I'll probably snag one in my next order for when I get around to that watch! Care to share a part number or link?

It's a sternkreuz FT 287.327, but I went to the special shaped section of watch glasses and measured the case window and overall diameter of the old one and lo and behold they had it! £10...

Edited by Razz
Posted (edited)

Picked up this morning in a lot of 10 for $25. Was $5 if I bought sperate. Pics as is then after 30 minutes or so. Numbers on the bottom of the dial are 2017 2466. Not sure this was ever serviced. The movement ring almost has a bakealite look to it. Wasn't running but did a little picking with an oiler and now running, albeit a bit slow.

Love the hands and applied markers. Looks like no ingress of water as no rust. The bottom of the case and crown have what is probably sweat damage to the Chrome plating. The crystal need additional work or replacement.

The bracelet is a period piece, but sized and flared out so not a one size fits most and damaging the lugs finish. It's in the ultra sonic for the first of several 10 minute treatments.20240922_1021542.thumb.jpg.c861b0aaff4d7055050a4f7047e85a40.jpg20240922_1025412.thumb.jpg.88fd5e676f2576fd19db28ecc3810d60.jpg20240922_1029522.thumb.jpg.f59a27482c0d2445fd8eb17bf0452de6.jpgDSCN61232.thumb.JPG.89b5fd07c12611dc18c03d244aabefc3.JPG

Edited by Razz
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Razz said:

Numbers on the bottom of the dial are 2017 2466

So it's a Marlin from 1966 with an M24 Movement.

Edit

Here's the 1966 catalogue clip.

image.png.8f42d0a88f9b6d005b61d678dddff393.png

Edited by AndyGSi
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

A nice example.

According to the internet.. $12.95 in 1966 is worth $125.82 today, make of that what you like.

Having said that, a 2024 Timex marlin is around twice that price, but you do get a jewelled movement for that money.

https://timex.com/collections/marlin-watches?country=US

 

image.thumb.png.5673a1bf0dfd46920ae883e2495545b8.png

This is the 2024 version, very nice, but for nostalgic reasons, I still think I prefer the original, which is probably just as well, since the new one is currently out of stock.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 2
Posted

The lume is not at all active. Seconds after this shot a portion of the minute hand lume fell out. Oh well. I do like this one...of course I am biased. The original is 34.2mm and 41mm lug to lug with a lug width of 11/16" or 17.7mm.DSCN61272.thumb.JPG.4c3ce6ab292627811ff2af2fe6193bfb.JPGDSCN61302.thumb.JPG.743ac3e34f380fc9b9043d6618c4bf80.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Dug this one out of the bin from a couple of months back. Turns out it is a Marlin from 1971 as well. Not as lucky on this one from the standpoint as it doesn't run. But interesting as the catalogue calls the model as a Marlin "calendar with black elapse time bezel and dial..." the bezel seems to be marked in reverse and I can't seem to figure out how you read the elapsed time...20240922_2040122.thumb.jpg.b67b9e3204c00ca04b41f8645eea63ff.jpg

Posted

Seems to me its a better way of determining how much air you have left.  Your tank gauge tells you have 20 mins of air left in your, set the 20 marker on the bezel to the minute hand then see the minute hand closing down on the zero marker. So technically not a time elapse bezel but a time remaing bezel.

Anndd would you trust this to tell you when your air is going to run out ? I think not lol.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Seems to me its a better way of determining how much air you have left.  Your tank gauge tells you have 20 mins of air left in your, set the 20 marker on the bezel to the minute hand then see the minute hand closing down on the zero marker. So technically not a time elapse bezel but a time remaing bezel.

I think you are on to something. However, my understanding is that the bezel is not for oxygen left in the tank. It is for timing how long you are below 10 meters or 30 feet as you have to decompress before surfacing if you go below that depth when scuba diving with a tank. So in your scenario you would dial in the minutes to decompress and then move to the next level after the elapsed time....

Posted

As a diver I know that almost without exception everyone uses a dive computer. However, in the past you used to use dive tables to calculate your maximum bottom depth duration. For example if you knew the dive was 30m then you would use the table to have it tell you that you could safely remain at this depth for 15 mins. So I assume you could use this bezel once you get to 30m to let you count down from 15 to 0 mins before you have to make your way to surface with the standard type of stops. However, if you over-stay your time at depth then you run the risk of accumulating too much nitrogen in your blood and returning to surface would require additional and prolonged stops to allow the nitrogen to exit your blood and other soft tissues. Failure to make these additional stops could result in a nasty case of  DCI, also known as the bends and in extreme cases death.

You would have a pressure gauge on your tank so you dive on pressure, not time. However, if you overstay your bottom time, then you may have to make more and longer periodic stops on your way to the surface (known as decompression stops). Normally you dive and plan not to have these decompression stops and only regular 3 minute stops at set intervals. Decompression stops could be as long as 10-20 minutes each and several of them (depending how deep you wend and for how long) and you better hope you have enough air left to make these longer stops, or you have to come to surface and hope for the best.

  • Like 3
Posted

Its used to set the dive time,  various factors determine that,  in the main the amount of air the diver is carrying, depth also plays a part, further down the more air the diver needs to return to the surface, but yes you're right decompression times would also need to be accounted for when setting the dive time. A traditionally marked bezel can be used for both time elapse and time remaining were as this one is really only time remaining without causing confusion. 

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