Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I saw this technique on you tube a while ago and decided to give it a try today. Old lume is certainly something you do not want to be breathing in, so the safest way is to remove it under water. All you require is an ultrasonic cleaner, a piece of pith wood and a couple of matchsticks.

Trim the matchsticks to fit the hole in the hand and delicately press them into the centre of the hands. I find the best way is to lay the hands on the pith wood face up and then press the matchsticks into the hands. Once you have done that, press the matchsticks into the pith wood as in the pictures below.

image.jpg1_10.jpg

image.jpg1_11.jpg

Now take the pith wood complete with hands and float in the top of the water in the ultrasonic tank. The lume on the hands will be facing downwards as in the following pictures.

image.jpg1_13.jpg

image.jpg1_12.jpg

Give the hands a blast for three minutes in the tank, and all the lume will be safely removed leaving spotlessly clean hands ready for the new lume. See below.

image.jpg1_14.jpg

:)

  • Like 5
Posted

Very good tip Geo. Not for painted hands, but for chrome or gold plated hands this is just the job!

Posted

Good point Mark I should have added that, unless you want to remove the paint. ;)

One other thing, if you leave the hands mounted on the pith and secure the pith to the bench with Rodico, it keeps the hands very stable for applying the new lume. :)

Posted

Excellent mini how to Geo, I'll use it next time...even with some of the painted hand ones, I have Testors paint so that simplify retouching them...more like a re paint job! Will come out very neat! Can't wait to start!.

Posted

Another way to remove the old luminova that works most of the times, is to place the hands in a tiny container with acetone for ten  minutes or so.

Before doing that, just get yourself certain that the hand are not painted since acetone is so powerful in removing paint!

Posted (edited)

Another way to remove the old luminova that works most of the times, is to place the hands in a tiny container with acetone for ten minutes or so.

Before doing that, just get yourself certain that the hand are not painted since acetone is so powerful in removing paint!

Exactly what i did for my little resto project Seiko 6309-523a. Smells nice too [emoji12]

2015-01-26%2014.33.55.png

Edited by ro63rto
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Not sure how I'd handle the liquid in the aftermath if the lume was Radium based. Tricky stuff.

It makes good drain cleaner, kills 99% of household germs! :D

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
    • Like these? https://www.watch-tools.de/metal-straps/springbars/assortment-360-strong-spring-bars-beco-inox-o-1-8mm.php  
    • I've seen them on several swiss-made movements as well. Last one was a Tissot if I remember correctly.
×
×
  • Create New...