Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi. I own a Tissot T035627A Automatic watch. I rarely wear it or any of my watches because I work in engineering and don’t want to damage them. I’ve noticed with this watch that it will run for a while, and then stop, naturally I assume that it’s run out of “wind” even though it’s an automatic but no amount of “turning” the watch or anything will get it running. I’ve noticed that when it stops, simply manually advancing the time a few minutes gets it running. I’m a total amateur when it comes to watches (even though I would like to get into the mechanics of them more) so I would appreciate any insight you may have. Ultimately it’ll end up going to a proper place repair, I was just wondering what the fault may be and what the damage to the pocket may be. Thanks

 

 

Posted

Dose your watch have chrono complications? 

Has it been serviced before, how long ago?  

Sounds like a regulare service is all it needs. 

I think its movement is a chrono grade in which case service is usually costly.

Posted

Hi. A bit of research reveals it’s potentially an ETA C01.211. I’ve had it around 8 years. Never been serviced admittedly. It’s got the Chronograph Complications. 

 

Thanks for your reply. I’m grateful, if it’s just a service then it’s something I’d have to pay for anyway, I was more concerned about it needing parts etc. 
 

 

Posted

Sorry hpekala, we posted about the movement simultaneously, I wasn’t disregarding your post and it’s confirmed what my research led me to suspect. I know nothing about it mind you!

Posted
2 hours ago, AliC666 said:

ETA C01.211

always nice to do a search of this discussion group who knows maybe it's been discussed before perhaps. Then I have another link that talks a little about the movement.

https://watchbase.com/eta/caliber/c01-211

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3778-eta-co1211-any-technical-reference-available/

 

1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

Some plastic parts my need replacement, they shouldn't be expensive.

one of the problems with a lot of the modern watches with plastic parts are the parts may not be available. But in the above discussion there was a reference to basically the link below there are some parts available. Even more important because the link up above to the technical sheet doesn't work you can click on the PDF symbol at the link below and the tech sheet is available. this is actually quite nice because in a previous discussion about a Tissot chronograph I think actually this very one we weren't finding any technical information. A lot of the really new stuff even made by eta technical documentation seems to basically not exist.

https://boley.de/en/caliber/watchmovements/eta/14065.c01-211?q=c01.211&p=0&s=10

Posted

Thanks very much for the information. I think I’ll take it somewhere and see what he has to say about it. If anyone can recommend someone in the NW of England I’d be grateful. Thanks to everyone. 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
    • Like these? https://www.watch-tools.de/metal-straps/springbars/assortment-360-strong-spring-bars-beco-inox-o-1-8mm.php  
    • I've seen them on several swiss-made movements as well. Last one was a Tissot if I remember correctly.
    • This thread might be interesting for you:  
    • I've never seen them, then again, I haven't got a ton of experience, but "common"? Really? In what context have you seen them? I'm not questioning you. I am sincerely curious why I've missed it. An alternative to Fixodrop is to apply less oil (no more than 50 % of the circle area). The only downside would be that it would shorten the service interval. More oil will prolong the service interval, but if the movement is subjected to trauma, there's a risk it will be displaced. Fixodrop makes it more stable. Unfortunately, Fixodrop is seriously expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...