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Posted

This appears to be an end stone, but I do not see how to oil it. The lower jewel can be oiled before installing the balance. What should I do with the upper?

 

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Posted

You need to release the stud, that's the triangular piece, by loosening the screw, bottom right. Then you can remove the balance from the cock and clean and oil the jewels from the other side. There may even be screw heads there, to allow disassembly.

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Posted

You might also want to have a look at the hair spring geometry to see if you can get it a bit more concentric.

Posted

I think the top pivot is out of the jewel in the top and pulling the hairspring to one side. But, I agree, if it looks like that when assembled, you have to address that.

Posted
25 minutes ago, Tudor said:

I think the top pivot is out of the jewel in the top and pulling the hairspring to one side.

Very true, I think also the angle of the shot may make things look out of shape when they're not.

Posted

I pull the regulator arm too, without seeing underneath you wouldn't know, then if tg tells you something is wrong, you pretty well end up overhaulihg twice.

Do it right, Do it once.

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Posted

When I first pulled the balance I noticed the hairspring was not centered. I ran the whole piece over the demagnetizer, but there was no change. I will disassemble, as advised, and oil the jewel and see if I can improve the hairspring.

Thanks everyone for the help.

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    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
    • Like these? https://www.watch-tools.de/metal-straps/springbars/assortment-360-strong-spring-bars-beco-inox-o-1-8mm.php  
    • I've seen them on several swiss-made movements as well. Last one was a Tissot if I remember correctly.
    • This thread might be interesting for you:  
    • I've never seen them, then again, I haven't got a ton of experience, but "common"? Really? In what context have you seen them? I'm not questioning you. I am sincerely curious why I've missed it. An alternative to Fixodrop is to apply less oil (no more than 50 % of the circle area). The only downside would be that it would shorten the service interval. More oil will prolong the service interval, but if the movement is subjected to trauma, there's a risk it will be displaced. Fixodrop makes it more stable. Unfortunately, Fixodrop is seriously expensive.
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