Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all, hoping someone can help out on this. I did a bit of searching but wasn't really able to find the answer. I'm trying to fit a new crystal to a vintage watch I purchased, and not sure what kind of crystal I need. 

This is from a Seiko 5 (5126-7010), but it doesn't seem to be an original case. I'm assuming it is the same dimensions etc of a geniune case, but I don't know how to find out. I ordered a classic domed crystal, but it doesn't work. There seems to be some kind of lip on the inside of the crystal that rests on the watch case, and the bezel holds it in place. 

Pictures are attached. The crystal is 31mm I believe. The inner ring of the case doesn't seem to have any effect on the crystal that I can discern. IMG_1801.thumb.jpg.71347b940360aa36b9b4056239bf95ac.jpgIMG_1802.thumb.jpg.e30847ad5e77eb91aafb1bdc401968f2.jpgIMG_1803.thumb.jpg.422182d87576ad8df6a8a21950c57f84.jpgIMG_1806.thumb.jpg.cb5c7b1624d25c818aa1a306983b33c2.jpgIMG_1807.thumb.jpg.b6737e3dd89795ed69db0770b438346a.jpgIMG_1808.thumb.jpg.de1e0b793ebce08eadd319c8bd47c3b4.jpgIMG_1809.thumb.jpg.30f7210393594cb11baea035c835623b.jpg

 

IMG_1804.jpg

IMG_1805.jpg

Posted

based on the crown position I think the mid case is Seiko but that back obviously isn’t. Does the rear gasket seal properly? Maybe you should seek out the correct back while you’re working this case. 
 

I would not be surprised to learn Seiko used the same dial diameter for a lot of watches and the case may not be correct to the original watch. 

Posted (edited)

@Tudor

There is no waterproof gasket, it's just metal on metal. I can take a photo of it placed on the mid case. I notice others of this range tend to be waterproof, but this doesnt have threads on the back to seal, and is just push on. Additionally, this case back acts as the movement ring/holder keeping it in position. I've tried seeking out a Seiko 5 case, but there don't seem to be many options.

I am thinking that mostly any seiko 5 case would work, but I wasn't too sure ont hat either. I saw some seiko 5 refubs in india for about $17, but the movement looks different, so I didn't want to commit on that. 

Thanks for the response!

Edited by smcchr00
Posted (edited)

Is the case threaded even though the back is snapped on? I would still expect a gasket; possibly on the back, for that case. Even to keep dust out an o-ring is a simple solution.  
 

notice no o-ring groove in the mid case here: 

 


it’s on the back. 

5EB68A80-E47B-49A4-8C49-E2C208C31205.jpeg

Edited by Tudor
Posted
17 hours ago, smcchr00 said:

I ordered a classic domed crystal, but it doesn't work. There seems to be some kind of lip on the inside of the crystal that rests on the watch case, and the bezel holds it in place.

What is the exact problem? You may need a different size, or adapt it a little. And I think you will need to use UV or just aGS cement.

17 hours ago, smcchr00 said:

Pictures are attached. The crystal is 31mm I believe. The inner ring of the case doesn't seem to have any effect on the crystal that I can discern.

You can't carry the tension ring to a different crystal that is not designed to take one. 

 

Posted
1 minute ago, jdm said:

What is the exact problem? You may need a different size, or adapt it a little. And I think you will need to use UV or just aGS cement.

You can't carry the tension ring to a different crystal that is not designed to take one. 

 

Hey JDM, thanks for the response. 

The inner ring does not appear to be a tension ring, but you have mentioned my exact issue here. I don't know what type of crystal I need, which is why I'm here asking for help. I've never replaced a crystal before. 

The original crystal, although domed, curves down and becomes vertical, and has a lip on the inside that sits on the watch case. I have no idea what to look for in a replacement crystal. 

Hopefully this illustration helps a bit.

1. Inner ring, it seems to be there for asthetics and a smooth transition to the dial. 

2. Watch case

3. Outside tension ring to hold the crystal in place. 

The crystal is between 1 and 3

IMG_1816.jpg

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
    • Like these? https://www.watch-tools.de/metal-straps/springbars/assortment-360-strong-spring-bars-beco-inox-o-1-8mm.php  
    • I've seen them on several swiss-made movements as well. Last one was a Tissot if I remember correctly.
    • This thread might be interesting for you:  
    • I've never seen them, then again, I haven't got a ton of experience, but "common"? Really? In what context have you seen them? I'm not questioning you. I am sincerely curious why I've missed it. An alternative to Fixodrop is to apply less oil (no more than 50 % of the circle area). The only downside would be that it would shorten the service interval. More oil will prolong the service interval, but if the movement is subjected to trauma, there's a risk it will be displaced. Fixodrop makes it more stable. Unfortunately, Fixodrop is seriously expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...