Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All, I have a JLC watch supposedly from the ‘50s. I have no experience of this brand but from internet research the numbers stamped on the movement and watch back are all different.  The watch back is stamped ‘19009’, the barrel bridge is stamped 86104 and the movement plate only has the number 56. I can’t find anything on a calibre 56 that looks like the movement in the watch.  Apart from servicing marks on the inside of the case back there are no other markings. Is this a hash of different parts cobbled together? 

3F2C230B-6DCC-4876-B57E-5A96E31C6893.jpeg

D5584FAC-1A04-4CEA-A875-AD3B0FACC722.jpeg

567967C6-3EEC-43A9-BD74-58E3BFAC797B.jpeg

45C3EC46-1A30-4C2E-BA8A-37AAC47ACA32.jpeg

69129FA9-B202-466C-8A60-31C667056EA0.jpeg

Posted

I don't think it's a hodgepodge. LeCoultre made a number of calibers on that base, the most common being the 424 and 438. You can tell the difference by measuring the movement thickness. 410 is 3.35mm, 424 and 438 are 3.50mm, then 413 is 3.90mm. The only way I've been able to tell the difference between the 424 and 438 is by the crown and ratchet wheels, they have finer teeth in the 438 (30 teeth in the crown wheel). Yours looks to me like a 424.

  • Like 1
Posted
35 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

I don't think it's a hodgepodge. LeCoultre made a number of calibers on that base, the most common being the 424 and 438. You can tell the difference by measuring the movement thickness. 410 is 3.35mm, 424 and 438 are 3.50mm, then 413 is 3.90mm. The only way I've been able to tell the difference between the 424 and 438 is by the crown and ratchet wheels, they have finer teeth in the 438 (30 teeth in the crown wheel). Yours looks to me like a 424.

That’s incredibly helpful, many thanks nickelsilver. I’ll measure it up later. 

Posted

That’s a lovely watch. The only issue I can see is the hour hand should be a blue dagger style, like the minute hand is. 

Posted
2 hours ago, rodabod said:

That’s a lovely watch. The only issue I can see is the hour hand should be a blue dagger style, like the minute hand is. 

Good spot - hadn’t noticed that.  I suspect I’ll have the devil’s own job trying to find a replacement hour hand...

Posted
40 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Following Nicklsilvers lead I have attached the sheet for the 424 for your interest.

Hi watchweasol, very kind thank you. Unfortunately, I can’t see where the attachment might be?

Posted
7 hours ago, Aedui said:

Good spot - hadn’t noticed that.  I suspect I’ll have the devil’s own job trying to find a replacement hour hand...

If you can get a hole size then I can have a look for one. Alternatively, get a larger blue hand and file to size. 

Posted
On 11/19/2020 at 10:59 PM, rodabod said:

If you can get a hole size then I can have a look for one. Alternatively, get a larger blue hand and file to size. 

That’s really kind. The hole size on the hour hand is 0.85mm. Is that the measurement you need? The hour wheel diameter is 1.28mm

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • To add to this unusual cleaning idea, there is another type of device whereby the internal spinning parts that move through the fluid are not physically connected to the motor.  The internal whisk is propelled via a magnetic connection, so no damaged gaskets due to solvent contamination. 
    • This is a method that Jon uses, and has posted a video of performing it somewhere .
    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
×
×
  • Create New...