Help With Bracelet!

[bobm12]

Hi guys,

 

I have this stainless steel bracelet that broke and I'm thinking about drilling the pin out but I'm afraid I don't know what would be best to do the job, having broken several bits in more forgiving metals before. Maybe the bits I use are not adequate? Normally, I use a dremel for all power work since I lack bench power tools, fixtures and even a regular bench!. Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

The broken pin is 0.54 mm approximately in diameter. Notice the link is "sealed" during manufacturing and there is no exposed hole to push the pin out on either end. Also, the hole at the other end of the link is plugged by the broken end of the pin ( broke flush to the hole) and the protruding end of the pin on the other side of the link can't be pulled with pliers as it is (on a preliminary trial). I haven't applied heat or any other treatment since I don't want to screw up the bracelet more that what it is now.

 

Thank you in advance for any help and/or thoughts conducive to solving this problem.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[clockboy]

My first thought was to pull it out. However how does the new pin fit is a bigger problem. It might work as spring bar type pin.

[bobm12]

Thanks CB, I tried to pull it out, it is not budging and the other side where should be a hole is plugged with the other end of the pin. Would you apply heat and then pull it? and what about the other end? the spring bar idea would work for me once the link is clear of the old pin.

[clockboy]

It looks like it's riveted so the only way is to drill it out. I have a Proxen piller drill with a router table attached to get accurate drilling & getting the drill absolutely in the centre will be a problem without this or similar set up.I have had a look in my spares box & the nearest I have to it is an Omega strap. Looking under a loupe the pins that should be removed are screwed in then filed flat just wondering if the pins un-screws.

 

 

Edited March 16, 2015 by clockboy

[rogart63]

How does fittings for the extra links with the hole near the clasp look ? Is it split pins ? You could use one of these as a guide when you drill out the broken pin . If you could make some kind of jig  You would need a long drill .

Edited March 16, 2015 by rogart63

[rogart63]

This is a bracelet i have in a box . Looking a little like your bracelet . If you look at the first picture you can see it has a split pin . If i bend it open i can pull it over the pin 

Edited March 16, 2015 by rogart63

[bobm12]

Thank you CB, I tried twisting it but to no avail. I will have to drill it. Any advise regarding what type of drill bit is necessary for this (rating, etc). I'm afraid the ones I have are not making a dent!...and I will have to make some sort of fixture for the dremel...it is hardly wobbly but it is at the tip just a tiny bit, is that normal? Would it be a problem either with the band or the bit at this scale? (0.54 mm or slightly less for a bit diameter)

 

Thank you Rogart, the expansion side uses split pins but this is the part that can't be resized. It is actually close to the watch lugs, just the previous one to the one which attaches to this particular case. I wonder if they solder/weld them to the link.

[clockboy]

                        

I use for most jobs the Tungsten Carbide Drills such as the 0.50 mm D0441A from Cousins.  For tougher jobs I recommend a spade drill from eternal tools see link below:

http://www.eternaltools.com/carbide-spade-drills

Edited March 16, 2015 by clockboy

[bobm12]

Thank you CB, I'll get both and report back after a trial run on this bracelet! I knew my drill bits were kind of wimpy since they broke so easily! I'm also checking on a fixture for the dremel. Nothing like the right tools for the job. :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[steveorval]

hi bob, just found this dremel drill standhttp://export.rsdelivers.com/product/dremel/26150220jb/drill-stand-for-dremel-multi-tool-kit/5459700.aspxalthough in uk should be able to get in u.s. then you need a vice then clamp bracelet making sure its horizontal by packing the bottom if necssary  then slowly does it and drill straight thro

[bobm12]

Thank you steve, I just ordered one from Amazon. The waiting starts! But they are quick so I'll be here in less than a week.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[ligangyi]

You can get tungsten carbide pcb drills used in the electronics industry for pretty cheap assuming you have some way to hold them. They are brittle. Let me look up a link.

Edit here you go

http://www.adafruit.com/products/2118

Edited March 17, 2015 by ligangyi

[bobm12]

Thank you ligangyi, I'll try those too. Not very expensive so it is a good choice.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[Geo]

Thank you ligangyi, I'll try those too. Not very expensive so it is a good choice.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

I use these myself occasionally. For your job spade or "D" drills would be a far safer bet. Carbide twist drill although excellent for cutting hard and special steels, they'll break with the slightest provocation. In your case you are not drilling solid steel, the slightest movement of the pin when drilling or if you are off slightly and it catches an edge between link and pin, will break the drill.

[cdjswiss]

 Carbide twist drill although excellent for cutting hard and special steels, they'll break with the slightest provocation. In your case you are not drilling solid steel, the slightest movement of the pin when drilling or if you are off slightly and it catches an edge between link and pin, will break the drill.

I concur.

And, what's worse, if the carbide drill breaks off leaving the end bit in the hole it's a devil of a job to remove it.

[Geo]

And, what's worse, if the carbide drill breaks off leaving the end bit in the hole it's a devil of a job to remove it.

That's definitely the worst bit, and will probably turn your bracelet into a bin job! :(

[clockboy]

I have used the Tungsten Carbide Drills for a while now being aware of the brittleness. The problem is the harder the drill metal although stronger they become more brittle. In my experience removing a rivet the hole to be drilled does not have to be the same width as the rivet a smaller hole seems to remove the pressure fit & they then just pull out. The spade drills work really well in a lathe with the piece to be drilled turning, such as a pivot etc etc.

​

The key to success for drilling is for the piece that is going to be drilled to be absolutely square & secure then plenty of lubrication  (spit,oil , etc.) and for the swarf to be cleared away as often as possible because this is what brakes the drills.

​For larger holes & to get absolutely in the correct spot first use a centering drill

 

Edited March 17, 2015 by clockboy

[Geo]

Very good advice CB!

Edited March 17, 2015 by Geo

[bobm12]

Guys that's excellent advise. Impossible to screw up now! I just need the right bits -- some are already ordered and some will follow! Thank you so very much, this makes my work so much easier and enjoyable. You guys are super!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[Vich]

Have you tried resting a soldering iron bit or fine burner on only the pin to heat it up to red, then douse it in WD40 then repeat the operation and leave it soaking for a while.  Might be worth a shot.  If nothing else, if it does not work and if you finish with the heat it may soften the pin a bit for drilling.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

[bobm12]

Good advise Vic, I ordered the bits so I'll do that while I wait for the package. Thank you for the advise!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[Vich]

Am I right in thinking that you will have to drill from the outside in as the U shape prevents a straight shot at it from the inside.  The accuracy will have to be spot on even with a drill stand.  I don't suppose you can get spare links from the Bay instead can you.  Is it a vintage bracelet or a particular brand of some sort, you never know one of us may have something lying around.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

[bobm12]

Yes Vic, you are correct, the shape prevents me to drill it from the inside. It is actually a Citizen so called "solid link" bracelet that is shaped for that specific model watch. I'm not even sure the back of the watch is the original one even though it is Citizen and fits perfectly. Therefore the number to identify the bracelet may be off. I will post a picture of the watch case later on.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[Ishima]

It's often possible, believe it or not, to actually punch these out, if you have a strong enough steaking pin, or bracelet punch, or failing that, I have found tungsten-steel darts (that's right, the things you throw at a board) excellent for difficult bracelet work as they're practically indestructible. (obviously unscrew the part that holds the flight)

You'll need to get the bracelet secure, either have someone help you hold it against a vice or put it into a drill press vice, and hit it on the right point of the side of the link, once youve made a little dent, start hitting it very hard with sharp taps. It should eventually budge, with some (sometimes a lot) of cosmetic damage and usually a rather large hole is left, so have extra thick split pins or be ready to make a custom knurled steel pin. 

Me and my boss have repaired a number of bracelets this way where they've come apart at the permanent, factory fit links. 

A lot of you are probably now thinking "that surely can't work." It can, it's brutal, but it works. You often have to spend some time polishing and tidying it up, and selecting the right type of pin to properly secure it back together, but often there's no other option.

Edited March 26, 2015 by Ishima

[bobm12]

Thank you Ishima, I will get the darts for sure! Looks like a sound idea to have some around too!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob