Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

guys

Just putting a enicar sherpa back together before cleaning it and i am a piece missing. Its the part that holds the oscillating weight in place. Its not a screw and the nearest thing to it on the worksheet is called a oscillating weight nut. Cousins say there's no such part. The number on the enicar worksheet is 1145b/1506. So i am stuck does any one know the name of the part i need to attach the oscillating weight to the movement.

or another solution

Pic 1 shows the movement side. that hole is were the oscillating weight goes. ( note slight lip  just above jewel)

Pic 2 is the above shot of the attaching part of the oscillating weight as is pic 3

Pic 4 shows the underneath of the oscillating weight that goes into the hole in the movement. The reception hole is on pic also

And pic 5 i have no idea why that's there but once again its the underneath part of the oscillating weight

It appears to me you put the weight to the movement and then you insert a screw type thing that much catch the lip(the lip above the jewel in pic 1) and hold the weight in position. But what would you call it. There is no screw thread in the weight or movement side. Or you would be screwing into the jewel. Could it be the oscilating weight bolt??( which cousins don't have) I do not even have a decent pic of the part.

any advice appreciated. i am sure someone has worked on these before or come across something similar. And with a bit of luck remembers what the part is called.

cheers

gary

IMG_20201123_184156.jpg

IMG_20201123_184218.jpg

IMG_20201123_184221.jpg

IMG_20201123_184242.jpg

IMG_20201123_184246.jpg

Posted
6 minutes ago, gary17 said:

Cheers

poljot i searched 1143/1506. Just seen the small writing on the worksheet.

Much appreciated thanks

gary

Right, 1143 is Manual wind, 1145b is automatic. This explains why you were not able to find that nut under 1143.

Posted (edited)

The stud is also missing. There should be a stud sticking up from the bridge. Put in from the bottom and up thru the bridge. Not sure what number it has . But check enicar document on cousisnuk on  enicar 1145 The stud is called 1496 and the nut 1506

Edited by rogart63
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is a method that Jon uses, and has posted a video of performing it somewhere .
    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently! Another option:  
×
×
  • Create New...