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Posted

Hello, i want to open the cadisen c1032 in order to change hands but the bezel in the front is too tight, to the point i cannot even shove my knife in there. Mark has a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjBfSCzS8eg where he opens first the case back and then continues with the bezel(is this crucial for the bezel to be removed?). Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated.

Posted

Hello and welcome to the forum    could you post a picture of the watch front and back, It may be the bezel does not come off and the movement is removed from the back. But until we see it we can ony guess.      thanks 

 

 

Posted

Can you get a razor blade in between the bezel and case? It is possible the bezel is integrated- I can't tell from these pictures.

If integrated (or even if not), just pull the movement out the back to change the hands. It's a better way to do it, and will not compromise the crystal gasket, which must be changed if removed. I suspect you do not have another crystal gasket...

Posted

Hard to be sure from the pictures but it looks as though it will all come out through the back, remove the back cover and look round the edges of the movement for clips or locks which hold the movement into the case.  Another photo of the front of the watch and of the back with the cover removed may b of value     thanks.

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    • To add to this unusual cleaning idea, there is another type of device whereby the internal spinning parts that move through the fluid are not physically connected to the motor.  The internal whisk is propelled via a magnetic connection, so no damaged gaskets due to solvent contamination. 
    • This is a method that Jon uses, and has posted a video of performing it somewhere .
    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
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