Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi,

I would like to change the date disc on my Zodiac GMT (with Cal. 75). The date disc part number is 2585/1 and is quite difficult to find (or expensive). 

I am wondering if 2585/1 could be swapped with an ETA date disc (I have got several 28xx in my drawer) or any other?

Thanks,

Edited by k3l3k
Posted
5 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Zodiac is AS made, I don't think any part of interchange with ETA.

OK. Thanks. 

Where can I look for a replacement  2585/1 date disc, if there are no alternatives?

Posted
20 minutes ago, k3l3k said:

OK. Thanks. 

Where can I look for a replacement  2585/1 date disc, if there are no alternatives?

Have you checked with material houses, julesborel, cousins uk, ofri and the like.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/25/2020 at 10:27 PM, Nucejoe said:

Zodiac is AS made, I don't think any part of interchange with ETA.

While I wait for the date disc to arrive, could someone please help me on the winding rotor direction for this movement (Zodiac Cal 75) - is it bidirectional or unidirectional (clockwise or anti-clockwise)?

Thanks.

Posted
1 hour ago, k3l3k said:

While I wait for the date disc to arrive, could someone please help me on the winding rotor direction for this movement (Zodiac Cal 75) - is it bidirectional or unidirectional (clockwise or anti-clockwise)?

Thanks.

Bidirectional. 

Posted
On 11/25/2020 at 10:55 PM, Nucejoe said:

Have you checked with material houses, julesborel, cousins uk, ofri and the like.

The date disc (from ebay) arrived today. The part number on it is 2557/1 and not 2585/1 (which I ordered for Cal. 75). The seller says that 2557/1 will fit, but I am not sure as 2557/1 appears to be for other Zodiac caliber's (e.g. Cal. 86 day date model among others). Shall I return or press on with 2557/1? 

Any direction is much appreciated.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who?
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...