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Posted

hey guys

I have removed the balance staff using the staking set. I measured it and its supposed to be 417mm total length and it was 408 mm so near enough it did have no pivot at one end and the other did not like being forced out. How the hell you measure each individual little part of it was beyond me so i ordered the 417 mm one.( It looked the same.) 

Now i am left with 1 problem. How do i re-assemble it when i get the staff with just a staking set. Oh and the trusty hammer. 

The videos on the subject on youtube, they all seem to use specialist tools which i do not have.

Please someone tell me it is possible.

cheers

gary

Posted
39 minutes ago, gary17 said:

hey guys

I have removed the balance staff using the staking set. I measured it and its supposed to be 417mm total length and it was 408 mm so near enough it did have no pivot at one end and the other did not like being forced out. How the hell you measure each individual little part of it was beyond me so i ordered the 417 mm one.( It looked the same.) 

Now i am left with 1 problem. How do i re-assemble it when i get the staff with just a staking set. Oh and the trusty hammer. 

The videos on the subject on youtube, they all seem to use specialist tools which i do not have.

Please someone tell me it is possible.

cheers

gary

You take all measurement using a caliper or micrometer. See photo below and the diagram I posted earlier: several diameters and length. Your staking tool is what you need to install the staff. Then of course - watch balance truing and poising steps, which require special tools.

IMG_1142 - Copy.JPG

Posted
15 hours ago, rodabod said:

I think Mark did an excellent video showing how to create the rivet on a balance staff. 

Mark use a Platex but the principle is the same . I use the same method. So far it has worked fine. I cracked a balance wheel some time ago. But not sure it was my fault. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

One tip for anyone new to riveting staffs is to choose a light weight hammer to help you make consistent, light blows. It’s quite easy to crack/hairline the rivet.

  • Like 1
Posted

I am "hammering" one right now! Elgin pocket watch.

Another tip: do notice roller's and hairspring stud's position in relation to balance wheel. Usually someone already made orientation marks to simplify life for you. Good people... kind, friendly ?

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, gary17 said:

Thanks for the tips guys i will let you know how i get on.

cheers

gary

Hi Gary, as promised, i will try to demonstrate how I do this operation:

- remove hairspring and roller (make some mental notes, or use marker, or observe existing marks showing orientation)

- punch out the old staff, preferably without cracking and warping the balance wheel

- note Staff diameters on both ends to select right stumps / punches. I have just riveted new staff for Elgin pocket watch using two punches, which were 0.01mm larger than staff dia: K&D round punch #89A and flat punch #59A, both 0.81mm hole dia.

- center / align your stump and punch (i used an old Staff to confirm concentrically when everything was centered with #1)

- place new Staff, mount the balance wheel on top

- get your round end punch and bring the hammer of your choice! ?

- repeat previous stem with flat (gently)

Staff-- - Copy.PNG

IMG_2012 - Copy.JPG

IMG_2006 - Copy.JPG

IMG_2014 - Copy.JPG

IMG_2019 - Copy.JPG

Edited by Poljot
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    • This is a method that Jon uses, and has posted a video of performing it somewhere .
    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently! Another option:  
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