Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I am working on a Valjoux 72 and can‘t really solve the following problem: After a complete disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly with correct lubrication I get the following results on the timegrapher:

Dial down: 320 degree

Dial up: 340 degree, sometimes starting knocking

 

Knocking at such high amplitude is no surprise, but why the high difference between DU and DD? I already checked the balance pivots, both clean and identical in shape. I also checked both incas, no jewel damage, clean and well lubricated (diameter of oil drop identical). The hairspring runs flat and doesn‘t touch anything.

 

So what could it be? Any help welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

Posted

How much endplay there is at the pallet and escape wheel? Between DD and DU even a small change in the area the pallet stones present to the escape teeth can introduce variances. 

  • Like 4
Posted
10 hours ago, Delgetti said:

So I am working on a Valjoux 72 and can‘t really solve the following problem: After a complete disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly with correct lubrication I get the following results on the timegrapher:

Dial down: 320 degree

Dial up: 340 degree, sometimes starting knocking

What were your readings before disassembly?

Posted

That's a lot of amplitude. I wonder if it has the correct mainspring; the 72 should have a spring 0.14mm thick. I've gotten replacements from suppliers in little packages marked V72 that were 0.15+, and had the watch rebanking.

 

Otherwise, lots of little things can cause a 20 degree difference in amplitude in the horizontal positions. As JDM and Joe say, check your endshakes. If they are excessive you can have things lining up differently enough between the two positions that you get what you're seeing. Another thing that can happen is a microscopic bit of dirt can find its way to the tip of the balance pivot and act like a ball bearing, giving you more amplitude. That is usually a problem with flatter pivots. Then just small variations in pivot shape can have an effect, and cap jewels can look fine until really closely inspected and you find that there is in fact a small bit of wear.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the replies so far. To give some information: Amplitude before strip down was 270 DD and DU but for the complete watch. The current 320/340 reading is just for the base movement, so I hope the additional friction of the wheels to come ( especially hour wheel with washer) will bring the thing into the non-knocking-area. I didn‘t replace the mainspring ( should do it on a chrono, i know, shame on me).

Hope to find some hours at the bench tomorrow, will check endshakes and the plate side balance bearing. 

Posted

I finally made it. No endshake issue, but a very tiny piece of dust on the escape wheel jewel. I have to improve cleanliness at the bench I think. Once again thank you for your help.

Posted

Good you solved this. Dust is in the air... we had a thread on possible ways to alleviate the problem in a small shop or at home.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Decided to update with the repaired watch back in rotation and the new anniversary gift.   
    • I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...