Raketa 2628.H "diafix"

[JohnC]

Hi all, I am servicing a Raketa 2628 which is now going all right, but amplitude is a bit low (now 265 after running in for a few hours). As you can see from the attached pictures, this caliber has some truly annoying shock-protected endstones on the escape wheel. The shape of the spring is such that I have difficulty even removing them. So on the first pass, I didn't even attempt it, just making sure the endstones looked roughly clean before dabbing some oil into the hole.

However, given the mediocre performance I'm getting, I think I may need to remove these and clean the end stones. Has anyone encountered these before? Any advice? I believe the 2609.HA has the same setup. Many thanks.

[anilv]

They are quite easy to remove, you have to realise they don't flip up like swiss incabloc (despite looking similar), instead you have to release the legs and slide the retainer sideways.

One thing to note is that the metal quality of the retainer is not as good as on swiss incabloc in that it is not as 'springy' and the metal will bend if you push the legs too far., at least that has happenned to me.

Anilv

[JohnC]

@anilv thanks. You're talking about the little spring on the escape wheel, right? I did the balance end stones already, no problem.

[anilv]

oops, sorry I misunderstood.

Yes the capstones are fiddly but do-able, I usually use two pegwoods to manouver them as they grip better. You can also try trimming the pegwood to the circumference of the fitting and hollowing the end a bit to clear the dome of the jewel but I find using two pegwood works for me.

Anilv

[Poljot]

1 hour ago, JohnC said:

Hi all, I am servicing a Raketa 2628 which is now going all right, but amplitude is a bit low (now 265 after running in for a few hours). As you can see from the attached pictures, this caliber has some truly annoying shock-protected endstones on the escape wheel. The shape of the spring is such that I have difficulty even removing them. So on the first pass, I didn't even attempt it, just making sure the endstones looked roughly clean before dabbing some oil into the hole.

However, given the mediocre performance I'm getting, I think I may need to remove these and clean the end stones. Has anyone encountered these before? Any advice? I believe the 2609.HA has the same setup. Many thanks.

 

Annoying just because you are not able to remove them?

And how these Cap Jewels are different from others?

Where did you learn such "dabbing some oil into the hole" mediocre technique?

 

Edited December 18, 2020 by Poljot

[JohnC]

@anilv

Thanks, managed to get them done. It was one of those things that turned out not to be so bad. Don't think it's upped my amplitude by much but will see how it is in a few hours of running. Cheers.

 

 

 

[Apestapatas]

Sorry I’m late, did you fix this issue?  I am having the same issue after service.  I did end up breaking one of the retainers and had to source another though.  My amplitude sits at 222 and the beat error is a little high as well at .7ms

[JohnC]

@Apestapatas
I found that cleaning these end stones had relatively little effect on the amplitude. They are also a bit of a bugger to clean. And yeah those springs definitely want to get lost or broken. As Poljot points out you really can't oil them properly without removing them though. I should say, don't you have a moveable stud to adjust the beat error? Re amplitude, could be a lot of things unfortunately.

[Apestapatas]

On 1/29/2021 at 8:32 PM, JohnC said:

@Apestapatas
I found that cleaning these end stones had relatively little effect on the amplitude. They are also a bit of a bugger to clean. And yeah those springs definitely want to get lost or broken. As Poljot points out you really can't oil them properly without removing them though. I should say, don't you have a moveable stud to adjust the beat error? Re amplitude, could be a lot of things unfortunately.

Thanks for the help John.  These issues went away on their own mostly.  Just by letting the watch run for a couple of hours after service, did the trick.  It is now at +4  275deg and .5ms beat error.

[JohnC]

@Apestapatas that's great, well done. Do you have a wavy trace issue or have you just moved it?

[JohnC]

An update to this thread: make sure to clean these endstones with the train wheel bridge off, or else you risk bending pivots! Good thing I bought some scrappers for this one. Tad embarrassing but now posterity will know.

[Apestapatas]

On 2/4/2021 at 12:08 AM, JohnC said:

@Apestapatas that's great, well done. Do you have a wavy trace issue or have you just moved it?

Wavy,  and a bit erratic will go from +5 to +12 in a matter of minutes now.  Of course the faster the movement the lower the amplitude.  I think I’m going to leave it alone for now must be something else going on.

[JohnR725]

I found a couple links describing the watch one of them has pictures of it disassembled.

Then when you're timing your watch you should remember to time it in more than just one position resting dial up or dial down is at the least amount of friction. So you should ideally check dial up and down verify that they're both the same. Then at the minimum one crown position wristwatch crown down would be acceptable.

Slow fluctuations in timekeeping are probably power fluctuations. All mechanical watches will have powertrain fluctuations but usually the higher quality of the watch the smaller the fluctuation and almost no effect on timekeeping. Bent pivots out around wheels in a variety of other things will cause a power fluctuation.

 

https://17jewels.info/movements/r/raketa/raketa-2628-h/

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Raketa_2628_H

[Apestapatas]

21 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I found a couple links describing the watch one of them has pictures of it disassembled.

Then when you're timing your watch you should remember to time it in more than just one position resting dial up or dial down is at the least amount of friction. So you should ideally check dial up and down verify that they're both the same. Then at the minimum one crown position wristwatch crown down would be acceptable.

Slow fluctuations in timekeeping are probably power fluctuations. All mechanical watches will have powertrain fluctuations but usually the higher quality of the watch the smaller the fluctuation and almost no effect on timekeeping. Bent pivots out around wheels in a variety of other things will cause a power fluctuation.

 

https://17jewels.info/movements/r/raketa/raketa-2628-h/

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Raketa_2628_H

John, thanks for the help.  I might buy another just to compare, in the meantime I’ll check out the links.

 

[JohnC]

If the pivots are okay it may be barrel arbor bearing wear. This movement has a steel bush in the barrel bridge which looks pretty robust, but the bearing in the mainplate isn't bushed. I have assembled the same parts on three different mainplates now and got traces of different waviness each time.