Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got this 404 Club denizen in a lot a while back sight unseen. I popped the back off, found this, searched Ranfft, decided it was a jeweled version of a Baumgartner 866, and moved on for the moment. Coming back to it and looking closer, I realize it's definitely not a Baumgartner 866. The photo below is the watch in question (top) and an actual Baumgartner 866 (bottom). Anyone have any ideas?

 IMG_2259.thumb.JPG.e1d8870fe8b68c7f92d4d6146a8b44bb.JPG

Posted

That may not be the link you intended. Doesn't seem to have any information about the movement.

I just tore it down. Can confirm, American made. 17 jewels with a cap jewel for each of the usual wheels to make up for the lack of jewels in the Roskopf escapement. Has a high friction wheel on the mainspring barrel like the Baumgartner 866. There used to be a how to on servicing that setup, but it seems to have gone missing... 

Definitely an interesting movement. 

Posted

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't cap jewels intended to be flat side down? I don't recall one way or the other on the business side of the movement, but on the dial side the cap jewel plates were all installed with the domed side down. I noticed the escape wheel was possibly cocked at a bit of an angle, but stayed at that angle through 360° rotation... It did wobble some as it turned, but not with the rotation of the wheel. Kinda wondering if an upside down cap jewel or two might not have put it at an angle that it was able to walk around. Begs the obvious question about the size of the opening in the main jewel, but this was a total non-runner so my expectations are low.

Posted

 

1 hour ago, spectre6000 said:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't cap jewels intended to be flat side down? I don't recall one way or the other on the business side of the movement, but on the dial side the cap jewel plates were all installed with the domed side down. I noticed the escape wheel was possibly cocked at a bit of an angle, but stayed at that angle through 360° rotation... It did wobble some as it turned, but not with the rotation of the wheel. Kinda wondering if an upside down cap jewel or two might not have put it at an angle that it was able to walk around. Begs the obvious question about the size of the opening in the main jewel, but this was a total non-runner so my expectations are low.

in case wear has shortened pivot so its shoulder rubs on jewel setting/ housing  hole, one can instal end stones dome side facing the pivot to compensate for the wear, it also reduces endshake.

You will notice the pivot rubbing on jewel setting if you were to put the end stone back flat side facing the pivot.  

  • Like 2
Posted

So if the escape wheel is visibly at an angle, it's probably about as worn as can be and won't likely run for anything. Especially not if it's able to shift around and wobble... This will be interesting... It was a non-runner, and may continue being a non-runner, but at least it won't likely be entirely my fault for a change!

Posted

Well... That was interesting. Tore it down. Cleaned it up. Interesting movement.

First off, the ratchet wheel screw slot was cut at an angle and all the way through on one side. First time I've seen that.

The main plate is sort of two pieces, I think for a little intermediate gear, but probably mostly to save cost. In order to clean the balance attached to the main plate, you have to clean the main plate, the 3/4 plate, and the intermediate block separately, then put it all back together and run it through again with the balance installed.

That's where the first insurmountable issue arose. Water ingress was an issue in the past, and the very long screw that only threads into the very thin main plate was rusted tight and broke. It was so long though, that I didn't even realize it was broken until I went to put it partially back together to clean the balance. I could probably dissolve out the screw, but then I'd need to be able to make a new one or source a donor movement.

The pinion is at an angle to the plane of the escape wheel. Fixable, but I'd need to buy a truing tool or a donor movement.

This watch has zero significance other than being less than $5. I got it as a victim on the altar of learning. Looks like I wasn't the first. I tagged it with what's wrong with it, bagged it, and put it in the "art drawer". If I ever come across another of these movements, I'll have a donor movement.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 12/20/2020 at 3:29 AM, spectre6000 said:

So if the escape wheel is visibly at an angle, it's probably about as worn as can be and won't likely run for anything. Especially not if it's able to shift around and wobble... 

If there is no sideshake(5 degrees max) on escape arbour but escape ( unwarped)  wheel is at an angle, you can fix wheel-arbour on a staking tool.

In case of excessive sideshake on escape arbour, the hole on escape jewel is worn or the jewel is broken, Bent pivot on escape arbour is common.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  Photos please. 
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • This is the old/first(?) way for making a mainspring for an automatic. "Evolution-wise" it is an logical first step forward from a standard spring. Usually these are indeed replaced with a new spring with an integrated/fixed bridle. Lubrication as you would do with any automatic.
    • Thank you. I was informed it was a cheap worthless Lack watch from India. It’s in a small mens watch looks to be around 1930 odd   Cleaned the movement and it’s going really well. Keeps good time.  This is a great site. Mystery solved. I’m obliged. 
    • I'm working on a Schild AS 1250 (a 'bumper' automatic) and it's the first time I've seen a mainspring like this. It has what looks like a regular manual-wind mainspring with a 'hook' at its outer extremity. On a manual-wind watch that 'hook' would engage with a 'hook' in the barrel wall to prevent it from rotating. However, the AS 1250's mainspring does not engage directly with the barrel but rather with a 'sliding bridle' that sits between the mainspring and the barrel wall, and evidently facilitates the slip necessary in an automatic. I'm not sure what advantage this two-piece configuration provides, but it highlights a gap (one of many) in my horological knowledge. I'm not sure if 'hook' is the correct term as used above, but please see photo below to see what I mean. Therefore, two questions please. 1. What is the proper way to lubricate a barrel from an automatic watch with a sliding bridle? My guess is the same as any automatic ms/barrel (e.g, a few dabs of braking grease on the interior barrel wall). What do the experts say? 2. I purchased a Generale Ressorts GR3472X mainspring, made for the AS 1250. It looks like the bridle is included and I don't need to salvage and re-use the old one. Is this a safe assumption? Thanks for the advice. If you have any other wisdom you'd like to share about separate sliding mainspring bridles, I would be very interested. Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...