Identifying clock

[MechanicMike]

15 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Mike  the distance between the forks is critical for operation too much and you loose travel too little and it binds, if you can slide a piece of paper between the fork and the impulse pin you are close and a smear of oil helps smooth delivery

Got it. It was hardly noticeable but will be checking with shimstock I have that goes thinner than paper. I noticed it has stopped again but I'm sure it's because of the timing. 

Getting there.

[oldhippy]

9 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

How deep should the recess on the clamp parts be? The recess is for the geared flange on the mainspring barrels.

Winder drawing

 And apologies for the topic derail. 

I don't know I have never had such a contraption.

[Michael1962]

I am going to go with 3~4 mm. It is just so that the geared flange on the barrels has a recess to go into so that the two clamp parts can slide into the winder with out the barrel binding on the rear plate.

And now, back to the original topic. 

[watchweasol]

Hi Michael on the ones I built when the two parts are together the total gap  when held together across the diamond the gap is about 2 to 2,1/2 Cm  Sufficient to hold the barrel safely, It depends on the barrel sizes and the size of the frame you are building, but I have found that the above sizes accommodate  most of the ones I have done safely.

 

 

 

[MechanicMike]

Hi you guys

It's been awhile I better give an update on this one: I finally got the 400 day completed, timed and regulated. You guys were right-these things are extremely fussy! So I transported it to the owner with the spousal unit carefully holding it in its carefully packaged box, while I white-knuckle drove the truck. Sure enough, it wouldnt run when I got it there!  so I'm guessing I have to do it all over again I bet?

[Bod]

Transport these clocks with the pendulum removed, or held firmly by the pendulum lock, if fitted.

Ensure the glass dome is left with the owner, to take care of, you do not need it for repairs or testing.

 

Bod.

[Rodgo]

On 12/20/2020 at 2:51 PM, MechanicMike said:

Hi all

I was asked if I could repair this clock. I declined because I know nothing about clocks. I don't even know what kind or style this might be. I searched online with no luck. I'm still curious and thought you guys might be able to help. Here's a pic of the makers mark. I should've taken pics of the dial and glass globe it sat under. It's got a weighted, spinning regulator with 4 small globes attached. It's about 10" in height. It has a manual wind in the back.

 Look familiar to anyone? Thanks

The 400 day movement is a very easy build I have done a few of them .and have 3 more to do..  but stick to what you like doing and do one at a time.. these are similar to carriage clock movements.. except for the platform escapement..   cannot recognise that mark...

[oldhippy]

4 minutes ago, Rodgo said:

The 400 day movement is a very easy build I have done a few of them .and have 3 more to do..  but stick to what you like doing and do one at a time.. these are similar to carriage clock movements.. except for the platform escapement..   cannot recognise that mark...

They are nothing like a carriage clock. You might just as well have said the movement of clock timepieces are all the same. 

[watchweasol]

Its a Kieninger  Obergfell  German clock, If you post a picture of the full back plate we will be able to tell you the model. Or purchase Charles Twilliger,s  book  Horolovar 400 day repair guide.  If you are working on these clocks it is a must have as it contains so much information.

As mentioned by OH they are a world apart from a carriage clock, for instance they must be perfectly level to function the almost total lack of friction is what allows them to run for 400 days on one wind.

 

[MechanicMike]

6 hours ago, oldhippy said:

They are nothing like a carriage clock. You might just as well have said the movement of clock timepieces are all the same. 

Not even sure what a carriage clock is. The 400 was a great challenge for an old noob like me and I really enjoyed it. Really made me have to think and it was something new away from wrist and pocketwatches. If I come across another I'd do it again and this time I'll probably purchase the mainspring winder. 

[MechanicMike]

On 1/1/2021 at 2:07 AM, oldhippy said:

MechanicMike,

You are going to need a lathe at some point for clock work. A unimat 3 would be ideal for you it is able to carry out all your clock work apart from balance staffs for platforms for which you would need a watchmakers lathe. Going back to the Unimat 3 it will accommodate Long case clock barrels and the Long case center wheel. Look on ebay for one and try to get something with accessories as accessories are expensive and this model is no longer in production. I sold mine years ago but about 3 years ago I bought another. You can even get a milling attachment for it.    

well OH, I had to go back aways to find this thread and it's been awhile since I've been on but in that time I found a Unimat DB200/SL that an old scientific glass maker had for sale in an old garage sale. It came with a 3 jaw chuck, a drill chuck and key and a face plate. I've been away from home for the last 2 1/2 months but now am looking forward to setting this all up. Any thoughts on the DB? It looks like it's hardly been used. I've been picking up accessories for it too here and there. looks like this little lathe can do quite alot besides watch repair which is right up my alley. it's built quite well.

[MechanicMike]

update: after working steadily for the last four months, suddenly the clock has stopped, I'm told. So I looked at it briefly and don't see anything sticking out at me as the reason why. I asked if it had been bumped or dropped, tinkered with etc. etc. all the answers being no. I played with it a little but it would start to slow down and completely stop after about 1/2 hour.  uh-oh. now what to do....welp

[HectorLooi]

Check the beat error and amplitude again. Sometimes if the beat is a little off, it will stop after awhile. Also check if there is enough or too much oil on the escape wheel teeth.

[Jack75]

A dab of oil on the crutch fork may be sufficient. This is often overlooked.

[oldhippy]

Those lathes are fine, it's just a slightly earlier model and there are loads of accessories  on ebay. Are you on about the 400 day? What Jack75 said is a a good idea it also will prevent fluttering and prevents friction, a wee drop is all that is needed. Most of the time it is just down to getting the clock in beat. One of those beat setting tools for Anniversary clocks is a must. This is what would help you. Most good suppliers stock them.

 

[MechanicMike]

On 10/17/2021 at 12:57 AM, Jack75 said:

A dab of oil on the crutch fork may be sufficient. This is often overlooked.

crutch fork-is there another name for that? not familiar...pallet fork perhaps?

Edited October 18, 2021 by MechanicMike
forgot words

[MechanicMike]

On 10/17/2021 at 2:12 AM, oldhippy said:

Those lathes are fine, it's just a slightly earlier model and there are loads of accessories  on ebay. Are you on about the 400 day? What Jack75 said is a a good idea it also will prevent fluttering and prevents friction, a wee drop is all that is needed. Most of the time it is just down to getting the clock in beat. One of those beat setting tools for Anniversary clocks is a must. This is what would help you. Most good suppliers stock them.

 

yes, the 400 day clock I had finished a few months ago.

I have one these and it looks like I'll be using it again here by what you guys are telling me. time to sit down and get it in beat again. Just wondering why the thing was running great for months then stops? do they do this?

[oldhippy]

I have known it to happen. Are you sure no one knocked it, do you have any pets that could get close to it. 

A tiny drop of oil at the tip of the blue arrows

[watchweasol]

It can happen Mike  they are more tempremental than women.  Where old H has indicated oil there should be a minimum of space just enough so as the fork does not bind on the shaft at the end of its travel.  Have a beer take a deep breath get the blood pressure down and then start again.  good luck.  

[MechanicMike]

On 10/18/2021 at 2:56 PM, oldhippy said:

I have known it to happen. Are you sure no one knocked it, do you have any pets that could get close to it. 

A tiny drop of oil at the tip of the blue arrows

yes thats the first thing I asked the owner-was it bumped? moved or tinkered with? did the dog move or knock it off the shelf? the owner had replied no to all. I'll re-apply a tiny dab of oil on the fork. and start over again.

[MechanicMike]

On 10/18/2021 at 3:15 PM, watchweasol said:

It can happen Mike  they are more tempremental than women.  Where old H has indicated oil there should be a minimum of space just enough so as the fork does not bind on the shaft at the end of its travel.  Have a beer take a deep breath get the blood pressure down and then start again.  good luck.  

hi weasol yep followed your previous directions and thats one of the first things I looked at and will check again. fussy indeed! thank you all. i'll keep you posted.

btw-I'm very suspicious of their dog. he's an american bulldog and he's a brute but a great dog. he's like a bull in a china shop. I think he ran into the shelf and jarred it, they just didn't see it. oh well back to the drawing board.

[watchweasol]

The beer looks good Mike    good luck with the clock.