How to remove Chronograph Pushers?

[Robbie010]

can anyone please shed any light on how I remove these pushers from my case? 

And, are pushers a serviceable part or best left alone if still functioning?

Thanks

 

[Tudor]

Hard to tell for sure (I don't see any threads), but I think those are friction fit, and get pressed out from the inside with an (expensive) tool with hollow punches.

Re-inserting them, they might come apart, so the pusher goes in and then the "cap" snaps on. 

It is also possible the "cap" comes off, and then the pusher comes apart, but the "cap" would get all marked up in that case I'm sure.

Who made the case? Do you have replacement pushers on hand to look at?

[Robbie010]

17 minutes ago, Tudor said:

Hard to tell for sure (I don't see any threads), but I think those are friction fit, and get pressed out from the inside with an (expensive) tool with hollow punches.

Re-inserting them, they might come apart, so the pusher goes in and then the "cap" snaps on. 

It is also possible the "cap" comes off, and then the pusher comes apart, but the "cap" would get all marked up in that case I'm sure.

Who made the case? Do you have replacement pushers on hand to look at?

The watch is a Dreyfuss & Co. Half Skeleton 1925 Series. 

I don’t have a spare. 

[Tudor]

Nothing I've ever even handled... Sorry I can't be more help.

Why are you removing them? Based on the pictures, the case appears to be in excellent condition.

[Robbie010]

8 minutes ago, Tudor said:

Nothing I've ever even handled... Sorry I can't be more help.

Why are you removing them? Based on the pictures, the case appears to be in excellent condition.

The case is in pretty good overall condition, I was originally thinking of having it re-plated as the rose gold has rubbed through here and there. However, with regards to the pushers, this is my first project and I would be interested in removing them just as a learning process...... provided it can be done without causing damage. 

[Tudor]

43 minutes ago, Robbie010 said:

provided it can be done without causing damage. 

To quote Han Solo: "...well that's the real trick, isn't it. And it'll cost you something extra..."

I would not try to remove them without the proper tool do do so. You could damage the pusher, case or both, trying to improvise something. In your position, I'd leave well enough alone. But if I HAD to get them out, I'd either make, or buy, the correct tool to get them out.

You can get a brand new complete Chinese chronograph for around $200 on eBay, which would give you something to mess with (case, movement, replacing hands etc.) for a low admission price.

I understand the frustration with the plating loss, but I think you should choose your battles carefully, or it'll end up another carcass on the bench. I have a few bodies stinking up the place myself...

Random thought: if it's a 7750,another complete case can be had for short money. Then it is converted to a stainless case, rather than rose gold. Probably not a useful idea, but perhaps for consideration.

[Robbie010]

I had another look at this today and tried to get a better picture:

Definitely looks like a C-Clip but there isn’t much room around it to manoeuvre. 

[Tudor]

Yes! Take the clip off and the center will come out. Then the tube OD probably has external knurling for the tool to unscrew it. 

[Poljot]

On 12/28/2020 at 9:15 AM, Robbie010 said:

can anyone please shed any light on how I remove these pushers from my case? 

And, are pushers a serviceable part or best left alone if still functioning?

Thanks

Yes, these are definitely serviceable parts. You will often find lots of dirt and in some cases corrosion (springs) inside. I've seen some pushers that were hard to push in and they would not retract due to dirt accumulated inside.

Servicing these ushers is easy. It appears that you have C-clip type pushers, not Screw-in. Thus, you will only need a flat screwdriver to push down the C-clip once the pusher is.. Pushed In :-). And you will need some patience also.

Do not soak the o-rings (you will find 1 or 2 inside pusher tube) in any cleaning solutions - just use water and paper-towel. Before installing them - apply silicone grease. Same goes for the C-clips - apply silicone grease on them before installing. This will keep them in place and they will not fall down. Use flat screwdriver to push / slide them Vertical down into Pusher's Groove.

 

[Poljot]

Here is a better set of pictures - the last one gives you a good idea how to push down the C-Clip and silicone grease.

If you loose or break a C-Clip (unlikely), any other cheap old watch with pushers will most likely have an identical C-Clips (do not dispose old watches, even Quartz ones )

[Poljot]

21 hours ago, Robbie010 said:

I had another look at this today and tried to get a better picture:

Definitely looks like a C-Clip but there isn’t much room around it to manoeuvre. 

You will never see more room, but this is all room you need. Apply some grease (i usually place a tiny bit of silicone grease on the C-clip), push and hold the pusher to expose the C-clip / Groove part, rotate the C-Clip to have the Open-end straight Up, use a small flat (not too sharp)screwdriver to slide off the C-clip by pushing it down. It's very easy, doesn't take much effort at all. You may use clear cellophane wrap around C-Clip to make sure it does not "jump". If your local flea market has one old quartz watch with pushers ($5 or less ) - this can be your guinea pig and C-clip spares for your future projects. 

[Tudor]

I thought I had commented again, but I guess not...

Once the clip is off, the plunger slides out of the tube, and you can then clean everything and replace the o-rings. 

To re-plate, you will need to get the tube(s) all out of the case. (leave them in if you are not re-plating or re-polishing, which would hit them) Often, the tubes have a knurl on the OD to unscrew them (hidden by the pusher). I have the driver for the common ones but I don't know if they are all the same or not... Avoid the temptation to grab them with pliers, as they will deform.

After plating, you will want to chase the threads with a tap, so get those sorted out beforehand as well.

Finally, use an oiler with some purple (low strength) locktite on the male threads. O-rings should all get a light film of Molykote 111 silicone.