Jump to content

Landeron 48

Specializedjim
 Share

Recommended Posts

Specializedjim Member

Specializedjim

Posted
Posted

Hi all and happy Christmas. 
I have just completed a Landeron 48 movement re commission. I have the watch now working well, in balance and keeping good time. However the only problem I have is when I alter the time the balance jams. I’m not sure of the correct terminology but it looks as if the impulse jewel gets the wrong side of the pallet fork and then can’t get back and the balance is then jammed. 
Is this a common fault that I’m just not familiar with? Many thanks for any help. 

Poljot Super WRT Addict

Poljot

Posted
Posted
30 minutes ago, Specializedjim said:

Hi all and happy Christmas. 
I have just completed a Landeron 48 movement re commission. I have the watch now working well, in balance and keeping good time. However the only problem I have is when I alter the time the balance jams. I’m not sure of the correct terminology but it looks as if the impulse jewel gets the wrong side of the pallet fork and then can’t get back and the balance is then jammed. 
Is this a common fault that I’m just not familiar with? Many thanks for any help. 

Here is the link if you do not have it yet (to improve terminology if needed)

https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/1471_Landeron 48.pdf

Tudor Distinguished Member

Tudor

Posted
Posted

Perhaps the impulse pin is not straight? How does that look?

How much does amplitude drop when the chronograph is started?

Klassiker Distinguished Member

Klassiker

Posted
Posted

Definitely not a common fault. What you seem to be describing is called "overbanking" or "out of action". One possible cause is a bent guard finger. Another is an out of place safety roller. Yet another is worn balance- or pallet-jewels (or worn or bent pivots) which affect the interaction between finger and roller. What is puzzling is why the problem only occurs when you are setting the time, and why the watch otherwise funtions OK.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

I have a link to a video that explains what the problem could be. Then when you're watching the video he shows explains basically a test which you're supposed to be doing on all your watches to verify the safety features are working. But typically on wristwatches no one ever does this because typically they work.

1 hour ago, Klassiker said:

What is puzzling is why the problem only occurs when you are setting the time, and why the watch otherwise funtions OK.

When you look at the video typically when all the safety features are in place that should never happen. If they guard pin is not functioning and you receive an external influence like a bump the pallet fork will move. In setting the watch it's possible to put enough pressure on the gear train stop to gear train which would allow the pallet fork to free float and move. Of course this is not a setting problem this is a safety problem.

It would be nice to see a picture of your pallet fork because looking at the parts list I can guess on something. Another thing that can happen to the guard pin on older watches are the guard pin is adjustable. They even make a tool so you can push it in and out as it's a separate round pin. It's possible that it has relocated to someplace it's not supposed to be.

It would be really nice to have a picture of the balance wheel out of the watch and the pallet fork still in the watch but a good picture the pallet fork aimed at the guard pin area as that's more than likely were your problem is.

https://youtu.be/DxeM85XRTbU

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Specializedjim Member

Specializedjim

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi all. Many thanks for your assistance and educating me on something I didn’t fully understand. The overbanking theory I think was correct as I have changed the pallet fork and now it appears that the impulse jewel does not get on the wrong side. Many thanks for all of the advice it was very much appreciated. 

  • Like 1
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • zx6rfool
      Hi From Virginia

      By zx6rfool · Posted

      Decided to update with the repaired watch back in rotation and the new anniversary gift.   
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Neverenoughwatches
      New forum member, new learner

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Tissot case back removal

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • tomh207
      New forum member, new learner

      By tomh207 · Posted

      You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...