Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch

 

The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.

 

The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:

 

  • square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw

  • a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook

  • there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel

  • the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly

  • the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum

  •  

Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.

 

2_zps69pgw4mp.jpg

 

Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.

 

3_zpslseb2gms.jpg

 

The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.

 

5_zpscywgklcx.jpg

 

Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.

 

6_zpsrgzthb7o.jpg

 

Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.

 

7_zpsuxibnumr.jpg

 

Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.

 

9_zpsu2evqz8m.jpg[/url]

 

8_zpswliqll41.jpg

 

Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.

 

10_zpslpgaqyzc.jpg

 

And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.

 

11_zpsjv4tyfun.jpg

 

Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.

 

12_zpsjrps3pz2.jpg

 

And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

13_zpsilzq2czu.jpg

 

With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.

Edited by Horlogerie
  • Like 6
Posted

the difference between the watchmaker and the repairer.. thanks for sharing.. keep it coming!

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...