Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 have started replacing jewels and was talking to someone who said push jewel out and if the replacement jewel is slightly loose you can tighten the hole with a oval headed (convex) punch. 

How big should the punch be to close the hole slightly and do you start with a large punch moving down to a smaller punch. Similar to riveting a balance wheel to the balance staff? 

Or am i totally mistaking something?

Cheers

Gary

Posted

So you can close the hole with a punch, but you are effectively moving material so need to be very careful not to crack th plate. I have reduced the hole size on a roller table but not on a plate. It is way better to find the right jewel. Is this a watch or pocket watch. If for some reason you decide to reduce the hole size, pick a round punch that is 5% bigger than the hole and tap often and lightly. And keep testing the hole so you don’t close it too much. My recommendation is to get the right jewel. If this is a watch, and you have a Jeweling tool, you could ream the hole slightly bigger and press in a friction fit jewel as well.

Posted
1 minute ago, jdrichard said:

So you can close the hole with a punch, but you are effectively moving material so need to be very careful not to crack th plate. I have reduced the hole size on a roller table but not on a plate. It is way better to find the right jewel. Is this a watch or pocket watch. If for some reason you decide to reduce the hole size, pick a round punch that is 5% bigger than the hole and tap often and lightly. And keep testing the hole so you don’t close it too much. My recommendation is to get the right jewel. If this is a watch, and you have a Jeweling tool, you could ream the hole slightly bigger and press in a friction fit jewel as well.

Jewel Replacement - Waltham Full Plate Pocket Watch https://youtu.be/WxQK6CWuznc

Posted

Hi

Thanks John they are the tools I have. I am just starting on what I think is the tough stuff. Trying to change balance staffs and changing broken jewels and trying to understand the witch timing results. I can get em going but not accurate and correct. I could do with a list of what makes a watch to run fast. So fast it cannot be fixed with balance regulator. If you know a list of what I check after doing the regulator let me no. . So I will probably be a fixture in the questions. Section. 

If yer don't ask yer don't learn. 

Any tips as you no are appreciated. 

Posted
3 hours ago, gary17 said:

Hi

Thanks John they are the tools I have. I am just starting on what I think is the tough stuff. Trying to change balance staffs and changing broken jewels and trying to understand the witch timing results. I can get em going but not accurate and correct. I could do with a list of what makes a watch to run fast. So fast it cannot be fixed with balance regulator. If you know a list of what I check after doing the regulator let me no. . So I will probably be a fixture in the questions. Section. 

If yer don't ask yer don't learn. 

Any tips as you no are appreciated. 

watch running fast.....

1. What is the amplitude?

2. demagnetize movement and tools

3. Are hairspring coils sticking? If so how did you clean the balance assembly?

4. Mainspring replacement? If so what strength did you use. There air about 4-6 different strengths for each caliber waltham movement which will vary based on jewel count.

5. Oiling the escapement, what oil did you use and how did you apply it. Did you get any on the hairspring, or on the top of the pallet jewels?

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Simplistic of above is

hairspring anything that changes the hairspring characteristics. In other words they hairspring is attached to the balance wheel at the collet and the watch at the stud. There is the regulator pins and that's it. They hairspring can't be stuck together with magnetism or oil sticking the coils together. Or touching anything else like the balance arm sets a really popular place it likes to go touching. Sometimes that's really hard to see. Touching the balance bridge. Anything that makes that hairspring appear to be shorter it will run superfast.

The problem with restaffing is the balance wheel comes apart and has to go back together perfectly and it's really easy with the hairspring to have bad things happen. Plus when you put things back together they have to be in the right place in other words watch has to be in beat that will cause an issue.

Things that change the balance wheel like restaffing if you're not careful. If it's a bimetallic balance wheel it's really easy to squeeze it the arms get bent in and it runs insanely fast normally when you restaffing you're supposed to make sure the balance wheel is running flat and true so this shouldn't occur usually occurs later on when people are doing something with the balance wheel will squeeze the arms.

The problem with watch repair is it's a lifetime learning experience. It's hard to have simple quick rules that explain everything. Troubleshooting issues with the balance wheel doesn't matter who you are can be quite a challenge. Earlier in the week I had a 18 size Elgin pocket watch behaving strange for timekeeping couldn't quite figure out the problem. Then I noticed that when I put the hairspring back on it was up just a hair and that was enough to cause an issue. But it took me quite a bit of time to figure out what that problem was I Leaning towards the pivot problem because that's what it appeared to be. This is where there can be so many issues when you Replace the balance staff.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

John........and that us why I dread balance work, i try to always find a suitable replacement but i know i shouldnt do that because i will never learn. The process is crazy, removing roller, staff, installing setting impulse jewel in beat, etc etc....at least most of the waltham/elgins are friction fit, the riveted balances i dont even bother doing since i dont have a lathe and the platax tool doesnt really help to not distort the wheel. Good thing that most movements including the later elgin 5xx grades with riveted balances would sell a complete balance, and they are quite easy to come by. Some minor hairspring work but at least you dont have to deal with the staff.

Edited by saswatch88
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • The hairspring end has come adrift from the small terminal barrel.  I have tried to remove the taper pin to relocate it, but the task is beyond my skill set, eyes, hands and being in my 70s, probably beyond my life expectancy.  It is not too badly mangled on the end.  On the ebay offer, that really is a bit on the rich side.  I'll keep looking, maybe a good hairspring will turn up with a shot balance staff. As for time spent on knees.  I made up one of these from 3M magnetic tape and a piece of wood.  It works well for magnetic parts. Other things I have suffered with.  I found lubricants so very expensive that I bought some very small syringes and tiny needles.  I just decant a drop into my oiling pots when I start a movement and the remainder keeps really well in the syringes. Finally identifying the correct screw for the part led me to make up the board in the final pic.   Thanks for the info. Kind regards   Chris  
    • Yes that's the type @watchweasol is referring too but I don't like them as you don't get any feel to what's happening.
×
×
  • Create New...