Jump to content

A Most Beautiful Watch Movement...

DJW
 Share

Recommended Posts

DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
Posted

I just finished servicing this Rare and Most Beautiful Watch Movement. I will later case this as a Wristwatch for a current customer...It is in Mint Condition!

1946 10s Hamilton 923 23-jewels, 18000bph, Jeweled Motor Barrel, Solid Gold Train,  Gold Jewel Settings and Gold Cap Stone Mounts, also with Circular Damaskeen  and perle'e.

 

This is a customer supplied movement for this conversion so I have no Idea what he paid for it, but could you imagine what it would cost to produce in today's market!?

 

post-90-0-75884900-1392653313_thumb.jpg

 

post-90-0-58587300-1392653314_thumb.jpg

WillFly Distinguished Member

WillFly

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ah... Hamiltons....! Yummy!

 

I have several - a 4992B (GCT military, 24-hour model), a 23 (military chronograph), a 992 and two 992Bs - and the most beautiful models as far as the movements go, are the 992 and the 992Bs.

 

The 992 and the 992Bs are lever set and size 16s - is this a problem for conversion, or do you not use these for conversion work?

Edited by WillFly
DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ah... Hamiltons....! Yummy!

 

I have several - a 4992B (GCT military, 24-hour model), a 23 (military chronograph), a 992 and two 992Bs - and the most beautiful models as far as the movements go, are the 992 and the 992Bs.

 

The 992 and the 992Bs are lever set and size 16s - is this a problem for conversion, or do you not use these for conversion work?

Hi WillFly,

 

The issue with converting the Hamilton 992's, and really most American pocket watch movements, is the keyless works. Unlike most European pocket watches where the stem is a working part of the movement, the American watch company's preferred to integrate the winding and setting stem into the case by developing the adjustable sleeve system. As you know, the movement and stem are separate from each other until the movement is placed in a corresponding case connecting in a male/female system. This fact makes it Very difficult to convert these types of movements. I've seen it done, but I'm not really sure how it was done.

 

I know that some American pocket watch cases have the sleeve mounted directly on the stem and not in the pendant like the majority of cases. Most of these were made around the 20' and 30's to satisfy the design style of the day where the pocket watch cases were very small and not much larger than the movement itself. The movements were not changed in any way, just the case/stem design. This CAN be used retrofitted to a wristwatch case, but the only adjustment would be to modify the length of the stem that enters the movement by filing it away. The movement is not modified in any way, as far as I know...

 

I've seen a 992 converted to a wristwatch form some of the chaps in the Ukraine....There's a lot of pocket watch conversions coming out of that part of the world. But, most are all Show and No Go! Very shoddy workmanship and parts thrown together! They look beautiful but I've heard horror stories once folks actually get their watches in hand.

 

Don  

  • Like 1
ianmedium WRT Addict

ianmedium

Posted
Posted

I love this movements finish. Al at Archer Watches offers this one in his vintage flieger model as well as three other versions of the Hamilton movement. This is the one I will go for when ready to order. You can see why the pundits often call the Hamiltons of this era the American Patek!

  • 6 months later...
Lawson Super WRT Addict

Lawson

Posted
Posted

What a gorgeous and unmolested movement!  It doesn't look like it's had a screwdriver on it since new. 

To not have a display back on this piece would be a real tragedy indeed.  As you say DJ, I can't imagine the cost of buying a new similar movement in today's market, it would be out of the reach of most people I'm sure.

DJW Super WRT Addict

DJW

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was a bit underwhelmed by this build to be honest! Such a beautiful movement that was ultimately paired with a fairly nondescript dial and case, as per the customers request. I don't think I even have pictures of the final assembled product. It's a shame really for such a beautiful movement. But, the customer was happy and that's more important to me at this stage.

autowind Distinguished Member

autowind

Posted
Posted

As Lawson has said,  it looks like new and unmolested and highly deserving of a display back, but as they say "The customer is always right".  A very fine movement which will hopefully last a good many more years. I want one.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Neverenoughwatches
      New forum member, new learner

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Tissot case back removal

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • tomh207
      New forum member, new learner

      By tomh207 · Posted

      You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • chrisG
      New forum member, new learner

      By chrisG · Posted

      The hairspring end has come adrift from the small terminal barrel.  I have tried to remove the taper pin to relocate it, but the task is beyond my skill set, eyes, hands and being in my 70s, probably beyond my life expectancy.  It is not too badly mangled on the end.  On the ebay offer, that really is a bit on the rich side.  I'll keep looking, maybe a good hairspring will turn up with a shot balance staff. As for time spent on knees.  I made up one of these from 3M magnetic tape and a piece of wood.  It works well for magnetic parts. Other things I have suffered with.  I found lubricants so very expensive that I bought some very small syringes and tiny needles.  I just decant a drop into my oiling pots when I start a movement and the remainder keeps really well in the syringes. Finally identifying the correct screw for the part led me to make up the board in the final pic.   Thanks for the info. Kind regards   Chris  
×
×
  • Create New...