Jump to content

Purchasing Oils In The Us

BlakeL

By BlakeL
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlakeL WRT Addict

BlakeL

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking ahead at Time Zone Level 2 course and the oils needed.   It looks like if I get only the ones required then it's 140.99 shipped from Ofrei.  Is there anywhere else people are getting oils from cheaper?  Esslinger does not have a wide selection and some of them are more expensive.

Edited by BlakeL
bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

I know what you mean Blake, I had to bite the bullet! On the other hand, they will last forever since you only use one drop combined for the whole watch...and sometimes that is too much oiling! Just be careful they don't get contaminated by cleaning the oiler every time you dip it.

icius Watch Enthusiast

icius

Posted
Posted

I feel your pain,  I just dropped $160+ for oils.  

 

You get them and you are like..."$40 for this??"

 

post-752-0-03285300-1427833573_thumb.jpg

 

Then you realize that you could probably lubricate about a million pallet stones with this and it doesn't seem quite as bad.  Investment for the future I suppose.

BlakeL WRT Addict

BlakeL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm very confused by the basic/optional recommendations for oil on the TimeZone course site.  They don't seem to match what is recommended on the ETA Technical Sheets I found on Cousins.  I would like to get a basic set that would work for both of these movements. Any Recommendations?

 

Recommended for TimeZone Level 2 Course:

  • Moebius Syntalube 9010
  • Moebius 8141
  • Moebius D-5
  • Glissalube 20
  • PML grease
  • Moebius Syntalube 9020 (replaces 8141 on some train wheels, but 8141 still required)
  • Moebius 9415 (replaces 9010 on pallets, but 9010 still required
Recommended Oils by Tech Sheets:

 

ETA 2836-2

Fine Oil: 9030

Thick Oil or Grease: Moebius D5 

Grease: Jismaa 124

Special Oil for Pallet Stones: Moebius 941

 

Unitas 6498:

Thick oil or Grease: Moebius D5

Fine Oil: Moebius 9010

Grease: Moebius 9501

Special Oil for Pallet Stones: Moebius 941 or 9415
emso WRT Addict

emso

Posted
Posted

I would buy

Moebius 9010

Moebius hp-1300

Kluber p-125

Moebius 9415

Moebius 8300

Moebius 9504 or molykote dx

br

emso

p.s: sent from my s****y phone so sorry for typing mistakes

Lawson Super WRT Addict

Lawson

Posted
Posted

Oh Blake, do I know what you mean mate!!

 

My "Christmas Project" 7750 walkthrough is still on hold due to the expense of all the lubricants I needed to purchase.  I didn't realize just how much it would cost, and it broke the budget for getting the movement holder ... which I need before I can start, and am still saving for at the moment :unsure:

 

...well at least once you've got them, it's reassuring to know they will last you a long time.

BlakeL WRT Addict

BlakeL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The 2836-2 arrived yesterday and it seems to be in great cosmetic shape.  I tried winding with the rotor but it didn't seem to start so will have to diagnose after disassembly.  It is missing the day wheel and whatever retainer holds that in place as well as the stem so I'll have to order those at some point. As far as the oils, I need to also rewatch Marks 2824 videos to see what all he uses as well.  I honestly just want to get the basics needed to do a full service on these two movements to start out with and then expand once I get more watches that might need different oils.    

bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

Hi Blake,

 

If in a "hurry", just for the class and to practice your oiling technique, you don't need to go with moebius at all. There are cheaper oils (some as good as moebius) you can use. Check out the oil section (or do a search in the forum). I remember there was an viscosity equivalence posted. Based on that, you can practice with those. I bet you won't spend more than 50 bucks for a full kit. Just remember that in the end you might want to bite the bullet though. Check esslinger for the silicone oils (10, 50 & 100) and the novodiac one...also the Indian silicon grease they sell...just to name a few. Remember this is not optimal!

 

Worst case scenario, well, nothing a good cleaning can't fix...and with the price of McDonnals, you spend that money easily in one breakfast for the family! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

That's a good start icius. I'll use it and add equivalents and eventually put it here for opinions. That will include cheap substitutions for those that just want to go through the techniques and experimenting.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

BlakeL WRT Addict

BlakeL

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Good deal guys.  This is exactly what I was planning on doing with Marks 2824 videos to see what he uses vs the recommendations from TimeZone School and the Technical Sheets. Bob, I'll look forward to your additions for budget options.  I'm still waiting on a few eBay items to sell before I pull the trigger on more watch items.

Edited by BlakeL
  • 1 month later...
Vich Distinguished Member

Vich

Posted
Posted

I know that Mark has suggested the use of Molycote DX as a substitute for Moebius 9501 for grease for keyless work.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

hootsmccoy New Member

hootsmccoy

Posted
Posted

I'm

 

Thought I would share my cheat sheet for lubrication.  I plan to add a new tab to this for Chronograph parts as well as sections for date complications.  

 

I put this together from Mark's videos.  If anyone sees something glaringly wrong, please let me know and I will fix it.

 

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LiO9xEzvBK6C5kfLSarTTbtFMdQmeSaz1ozCHv4RDZg&authuser=0

I'm just starting out (hobby) so to me your spreadsheet is a gold mine!  Thank you very much for putting this together and sharing.

clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

They last a long time providing they are stored correctly, keep away from direct light & big temperature changes. Some recommend changing every year but unless a pro just to pricey for most.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HectorLooi
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Randy55
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By Randy55 · Posted

      Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Diy rotary cleaning machine

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • mikepilk
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By mikepilk · Posted

      In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...