Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have this seiko bellmatic with calibre 4006, the watch is not running. I disassembled it and found that the escape wheel doesn't stay vertical (meaning that the jewel is not holding it in place, so it pivots on it's base), so, as far as I can understand, it's not making contact with the hands wheels and so the watch is not running. However there's also something else, the watch winds but it doesn't unwind, I don't understand why. Shouldn't a malfunction like that of the escape wheel also make the watch unwind very fast?

 

post-627-0-85404000-1427980069.png

Edited by chriz74
Posted

Sounds like the escape wheel has a broken pivot. It may have snapped and the wheel is now dislodged jamming the gears!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Imagine it moves on the base like this -> V where the base of the v is the pivot and the V describes the pivotal movement in circles ... So it's the upper part that is not held by the jewel on the upper plate.

Edited by chriz74
Posted

The top pivot will be broken off or the top jewel has severe problems which is unlikely. :(

  • Like 2
Posted

At the apex of the V or inverted V for the top there should be a tiny spike That is the pivot... Or not if its broken, Very hard to see as its tiny you will need quite high magnification to see it!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...