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Posted

Ok, I think I got it now. I'll have to put in some sheltered spot to see if it will keep going. The glass dome was missing and I think some draft must have upset the oscillation. 

An anniversary clock is a great way to learn escapement theory. Everything moves so slowly that you can see every step. Drop, lock, full lock, power, unlock.

Posted
22 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I unscrewed the pallet plate?

20210311_203944.thumb.jpg.ffe2423a854b53c81a7bbd4247c285fd.jpg

I don't know the proper name for it. The smaller plate that has the hole for the pallet arbor...

 

Posted

Unscrewing that won't make any difference to the going of the clock, those holes are not elongated. If you didn't have the movement covered then draft could have caused it to stop. Try and put the clock out of the way, away from everything.    

Posted

20210323_193558.thumb.jpg.f36560de019b2ff8507ddebea5d8d942.jpg

The holes on this Hermle are definitely elongated. I don't understand why as the pallet has actual adjustable pallets. My Kundo anniversary clock had round holes.

But working on this clock has really deepened my understanding of escapements.

Posted

I can't recall seeing that before. How stupid is that.  Whatever you do do not adjust the pallet faces. I don't suppose you marked the plate when you removed the first screw. 

Posted
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

I can't recall seeing that before. How stupid is that.  Whatever you do do not adjust the pallet faces. I don't suppose you marked the plate when you removed the first screw. 

Thanks. I'll remember that. I wasn't expecting an elongated hole. It was only when I was putting it back together that I saw it. ?

How would you mark the plate? Would you use a scriber?

Posted

Don't damage the plate with a line, just a tiny mark on the edge so you can see it but others can't. I was going to say a felt tip pen but that will rub off when cleaning. 

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Posted

I've got one of these clocks and am having the exact same problem. You have some very good pictures and I see that your pallets span five scape wheel teeth. I cant get mine to span more than four for some reason. I'm told the long number is the movement number and mine is the same. Moving the bridge frame is the normal way to do the last final adjustment. More common on clocks with non-adjustable pallets.

I've made parts for and renovated a good many 400 day clocks and this one is on the point of having me beaten! I've checked everything and can't find the spot between fluttering and jamming. I used to think Koma Midgets were the worst....

Has yours got the proper top block on the suspension spring? ie with a semi-circular cut out? If you have "The Book"I think its 25b

Posted
55 minutes ago, JSM said:

I've got one of these clocks and am having the exact same problem. You have some very good pictures and I see that your pallets span five scape wheel teeth. I cant get mine to span more than four for some reason. I'm told the long number is the movement number and mine is the same. Moving the bridge frame is the normal way to do the last final adjustment. More common on clocks with non-adjustable pallets.

I've made parts for and renovated a good many 400 day clocks and this one is on the point of having me beaten! I've checked everything and can't find the spot between fluttering and jamming. I used to think Koma Midgets were the worst....

Has yours got the proper top block on the suspension spring? ie with a semi-circular cut out? If you have "The Book"I think its 25b

In order to know how many teeth between the pallets you need to work out the teeth count to the pinions. Have you checked for wear on the escape wheel and wear on the pallets. Have you got the pallets in the right position. How much space between the pallet forks and pallet bar,  a tiny drop of oil between the two stops fluttering.  

Posted
6 hours ago, JSM said:

Hector, I think your photos are excellent! What camera are you using?

Thanks JSM.

I was only using my smartphone's camera. The extreme closeup shots were taken with a macro lens clipped on to the phone.

Posted
6 hours ago, JSM said:

I've got one of these clocks and am having the exact same problem. You have some very good pictures and I see that your pallets span five scape wheel teeth. I cant get mine to span more than four for some reason. I'm told the long number is the movement number and mine is the same. Moving the bridge frame is the normal way to do the last final adjustment. More common on clocks with non-adjustable pallets.

I've made parts for and renovated a good many 400 day clocks and this one is on the point of having me beaten! I've checked everything and can't find the spot between fluttering and jamming. I used to think Koma Midgets were the worst....

Has yours got the proper top block on the suspension spring? ie with a semi-circular cut out? If you have "The Book"I think its 25b

I can't recall. I've since sold off the clock so I can't check it.

But I think everything was original with this clock. I didn't change anything except the suspension wire and getting a new glass dome.

I did manage to get pretty good amplitude from this clock after playing around with the pallet depth and getting it in beat.

With your vast experience with 400 day clocks, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Posted

Vast is a bit of an overstatement! I have probably been lucky in fixing other clocks.

That's amazing that you took this pictures with a phone and accessory lens. 

Phone cameras are so good these days.

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