Busted curb pin hole

[JohnC]

Hi all, this is a picture of an 1883 18s Waltham regulator. I have the pin, but just sliding it in is not an option since the lip of the hole has been broken off. If I slide it in it goes too deep - almost out the other side. What do you advise? Thanks.

[Nucejoe]

How about gluing?  

[JohnC]

@Nucejoe
yep thinking about it. Can't think of another solution except get a thicker pin or different regulator. But I would rather not wait 3 weeks for covid mail...

[JohnR725]

13 hours ago, JohnC said:

the lip of the hole has been broken off.

how do you know that there was a lip? as I've never taken one a part that I can remember? I was under the impression that they have tapered pins.

[KarlvonKoln]

I was thinking about the stakes we use for hole closing.  Now, jewel holes and hand holes are fairly large compared to the little pin hole in your Waltham's regulator, but the principle would be the same, if you have a hole-closing stake.  BUT...(caveat)...you might find it easier and better to fabricate a new set of pins if they are so loose as what you say.  And easier still would be to locate a regulator from a matching movement that had its pins solidly in place already, and save those other ideas for if the replacement cannot be found.

[nickelsilver]

In almost all cases the pins are tapered, as John says, and the holes are usually straight as the pin conforms to its size as it's pushed in. The holes are just holes. If the pin worked loose, which can happen when manipulating them, the one real solution is to insert a new pin. I have millions so have never ordered but the supply houses do sell assortments. To install, place the regulator on a bench block with the pin holes over a hole, slide in pin, grip just above the hole with stout tweezers and press some more, trim (hairspring cutting tweezers are best) leaving maybe 0.10-0.15mm proud, then press again. Now you would usually repolish the regulator to get them flush, but you can trim any excess with a razor blade. Trim the length at the hairspring side and it's done.

[Nucejoe]

I consider the overall condition and worth of the watch, if well, it might be well worth replacing the regu arm with a new one. 

I also hate to see a staking set get damaged when trying to close a hole on $5 regu arm.

What I hate the most, is to help someone ruin a watch.

[nickelsilver]

I don't think a little tap from punch on this will hurt the punch at all. I am about 100% certain that in closing the hole, even a tiny bit, a sharp lip will be formed in the hole, which will neatly shave the pin as it's pushed in and the pin will be as loose or looser than before.

[JohnC]

Guys, thanks for all your comments. At the suggestion of a friend, I ended up ever so slightly flattening the wide end of the taper pin using a knife-edge punch (the same as you might use to tighten a cannon pinion). It now frictions nicely and isn't visible because the flattened part is fully in the hole. I've got the pins adjusted so the watch should run. If it's problematic then the hole is undamaged, so I can just source a new pin.

[JohnC]

PS Sorry @JohnR725 I mean the edge of the hole. You can see it in that image on the right-hand-side of the hole. It was just widened enough by the corrosion to prevent a good friction fit.

And @Nucejoe don't worry, this was a $50 watch that hasn't run in probably 50 years. It has been previously butchered by an absolute idiot. I am only doing good things for it.

Edited April 28, 2021 by JohnC