Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I rebuilt a very beat up 3075 movement and I replaced the main spring with a Rolex spring and soon as the spring is fully wound and begins to slip it feels very rough. I’m thinking maybe I used too much breaking Grease (8217) but just wanted to ask to see if this is correct before I take the whole thing apart. Just some history this is a very beat up movement that had a lot of water damage that wasn’t properly fixed and I had to replace a lot of parts but fortunately everything is running great and this is the only issue I’ve come across. It’s running within two seconds fast or two seconds slow in 6 positions and I’m getting an amplitude between 260 and 285 with a beat error that doesn’t deviate past 0.3

Posted
1 hour ago, Wallace said:

 and soon as the spring is fully wound and begins to slip it feels very rough. 

Just rough, or hard to turn?

If the latter then likely when on wrist the weight cannot win that friction, the auto winding mechanism will be stress and may end failing.

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Sounds to me if it is rough when winding the auto pawl wheels need oiling. 

I haven’t even put the auto mechanism on I don’t put that on until I case the watch. So it’s definitely only when spring spring is fully winded

Posted
7 hours ago, jdm said:

Just rough, or hard to turn?

If the latter then likely when on wrist the weight cannot win that friction, the auto winding mechanism will be stress and may end failing.

It’s rough and it gets a little harder to turn but not too bad it just does not feel as smooth as it should. I haven’t put the auto mechanism on it yet to test it because I want to sort this out first. I am noticing the spring doesn’t advance when it slips at all, what I mean by that is sometimes when the spring slips you can hear it slightly advance when it breaks friction but this only slips as you turn it.. too much breaking Grease? I’m working the next couple days so it will be A few days before I get to it. I’m thinking at this point I’m going to take the barrel apart to investigate, it just bothers me I have to take it apart and I’d like to find out some tips from someone more experienced before I get back into it.

Posted
19 hours ago, oldhippy said:

In that case it must be the spring or the inside of the barrel. 

yeah, maybe additional grease required, its probably metal on metal grinding your feeling

Posted
On 6/4/2021 at 9:53 AM, oldhippy said:

In that case it must be the spring or the inside of the barrel. 

That’s kind of what I’m thinking but is it too much grease because I thought I put quite a bit in there or too little grease. First time I’ve had this problem I’ll take a look when I inspect it.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is the old/first(?) way for making a mainspring for an automatic. "Evolution-wise" it is an logical first step forward from a standard spring. Usually these are indeed replaced with a new spring with an integrated/fixed bridle. Lubrication as you would do with any automatic.
    • I'm working on a Schild AS 1250 (a 'bumper' automatic) and it's the first time I've seen a mainspring like this. It has what looks like a regular manual-wind mainspring with a 'hook' at its outer extremity. On a manual-wind watch that 'hook' would engage with a 'hook' in the barrel wall to prevent it from rotating. However, the AS 1250's mainspring does not engage directly with the barrel but rather with a 'sliding bridle' that sits between the mainspring and the barrel wall, and evidently facilitates the slip necessary in an automatic. I'm not sure what advantage this two-piece configuration provides, but it highlights a gap (one of many) in my horological knowledge. I'm not sure if 'hook' is the correct term as used above, but please see photo below to see what I mean. Therefore, two questions please. 1. What is the proper way to lubricate a barrel from an automatic watch with a sliding bridle? My guess is the same as any automatic ms/barrel (e.g, a few dabs of braking grease on the interior barrel wall). What do the experts say? 2. I purchased a Generale Ressorts GR3472X mainspring, made for the AS 1250. It looks like the bridle is included and I don't need to salvage and re-use the old one. Is this a safe assumption? Thanks for the advice. If you have any other wisdom you'd like to share about separate sliding mainspring bridles, I would be very interested. Cheers!
    • Thank you Hector. You too matey 😊
    • Bless you, Mark. May you live long and prosper!
    • That’s a nice idea, But i’m committed to providing this site as a gift to the watch repair community as my thank you for my incredible life i’ve had in this business. Ive done well and unless my financial circumstances change then i’m more than happy to foot the bill. If circumstances do change then be assured that I will make an appeal. For now, I’m comfortable with the way things are and I am extremely delighted to remove Google Ads from this site and to stop Patreon, it feels like a major step forward 🙂 Sorry, I missed your reply, I got blinded by another poster in this thread. Yes - I can confirm that I have always seen WRT as a not-for-profit website, and therefore - not a business as such. I’m lucky and have done well in my life due to a decision made in my teens to start a watch repairing apprenticeship which has sustained myself and my family for many years now. Consider this my small way of paying it forward. Ive been committed to keeping the site alive on a technical and financial level for over 10 years now and I have zero plans to change that. Thank you for your kind words by the way. And as for your wish - nobody can control what happens in life, if something happens to me I have things in place with my family but I’m just not comfortable talking about my personal business - I wish a certain person would respect that, but i’ve calmed down now - i’m only human 😄  
×
×
  • Create New...