Cap and barrel jewels for ETA 2824-2

[CharlieButterworth]

I lost one of the barrel jewels for my ETA 2824-2. They’re in Novodiac shock assemblies.

After looking at numerous suppliers, I cannot find a replacement.

I am even willing to buy a whole new shock assembly. So.......

Are the upper and lower balance jewels actually different in the 2824-2?

Does anyone know any suppliers with these or entire assemblies? If I could only purchase Incabloc assemblies, could I simply use the jewels from them?

Does anyone have part numbers?

 

Thanks,

Charlie

[Nucejoe]

Is the barrel in your eta 2824-2 jeweled? 

 

[CharlieButterworth]

10 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Is the barrel in your eta 2824-2 jeweled? 

 

Sorry, I meant hole-jewel.

[jdm]

11 hours ago, CharlieButterworth said:

I lost one of the barrel jewels for my ETA 2824-2.

Get an UV light from the dollar shop, darken the tool a little and you will have great chances to find it in the room.

[spectre6000]

What is the UV light for? Do synthetic sapphires fluoresce? Is it a modern additive or something to help watchmakers when they drop jewels (if not, it should be!)?

[CharlieButterworth]

Alas, the room in which I do my watch repair is carpeted. So, I fear the hole jewel is lost forever.

Otto Frei lists complete incabloc shock jewels and mounts for only a couple of dollars each. If the hole and cap jewels can be used in my watch’s Novodiac assemblies, then I’ll order directly from them.

[JohnR725]

2 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

What is the UV light for? Do synthetic sapphires fluoresce? Is it a modern additive or something to help watchmakers when they drop jewels (if not, it should be!)?

UV light or typically UV LED flashlights are interesting in that the wavelength is almost out of our visible range. So if you look at your UV flashlight which you should not because it in real life is very very bright you just see a very dim glow.

this means if you shine your UV light onto objects and I don't know the reason why but most objects just look dark some objects seemed to glow some really really intently. Modern synthetic ruby jewels and I have an image attached. I do think the camera makes them look a little more intense then my eyesight indicated but still they definitely seem to have a glow and the surrounding watch in this case does not. So they will stand out when you're looking for them versus hiding really well.

Unfortunately if it's a vintage watch this is sometimes problematic. It appears to be that some natural stones do not glow at all.

 

 

 

 

[Plato]

Is that a Chinese clone? Do they bother using synthetic rubies in their movements?

[spectre6000]

Yes, and yes. Synthetic rubies are cheap.

[Plato]

On 6/6/2021 at 1:38 AM, spectre6000 said:

Yes, and yes. Synthetic rubies are cheap.

Just tested the UV light on some ancient Seitz jewels and they light up in the same way  

[KarlvonKoln]

On 6/5/2021 at 10:25 AM, jdm said:

Get an UV light from the dollar shop, darken the tool a little and you will have great chances to find it in the room.

Of course!  This had not occurred to me before either.  And it makes sense, because most rubies will fluoresce when brightly lit.  This is also partly how lasers work.  I have to remember this tip.

[jdm]

On 6/5/2021 at 5:16 PM, CharlieButterworth said:

Alas, the room in which I do my watch repair is carpeted. So, I fear the hole jewel is lost forever.

Before giving up, vacuum well and comb through the bag with the light said above.

[KarlvonKoln]

I put the toe-end of one of my wife's nylon stockings over the vacuum nozzle, and it will catch small lost things before they go into the vacuum.  Do you suppose a section of hose is woven fine enough to catch a watch jewel?  Or might it pop through it and go on in?

 

[CharlieButterworth]

My order with Cousins arrived in the US a week after it was mailed. It contained two lower hole jewels for the Novodiac version of the 2824-2.

The watch is back together and running great - although the amplitude could be a little higher. Face-up and FD, it gains a few seconds a day on the timer. I suppose after a couple of days running, I should check the amplitude a second time readjust timing.

That was a real learning experience for me.

Thank-you to all those who contributed to the discussion.

 

Charlie

[JohnR725]

7 minutes ago, CharlieButterworth said:

The watch is back together and running great - although the amplitude could be a little higher. Face-up and FD, it gains a few seconds a day on the timer. I suppose after a couple of days running, I should check the amplitude a second time readjust timing.

wonderful that the watches running again.

What exactly is the amplitude numerically?

[CharlieButterworth]

John,

IIRC the amplitude was around 180-190. Not horrendous. I followed the oiling regime recommended in the TimeZone Watch School. However, this is only the fourth or fifth movement that I have worked on. When I first dismantled this movement, cleaned, and oiled it (it was new) for the course, I didn't have a timing machine. However, the watch ran amazingly for over five years and was my daily watch.

 

Charlie

[JohnR725]

16 minutes ago, CharlieButterworth said:

the amplitude was around 180-190. Not horrendous.

the reason I asked about the amplitude is that usually the people in this group get really obsessed with amplitude is the most important thing strangely enough the Swiss don't care kind of? I snipped out an image for you with the Swiss care about is timekeeping and timekeeping over 24 hours. If you amplitude stays linear over 24 hours that's okay. But it still has a have enough amplitude at the end of 24 hours to have200° of amplitude and your watch I'm assumed was fully wound up here amplitude then is unacceptable. So I attached a PDF C know what specifications are supposedly aiming for you need a little more amplitude than this because it 24 hours and now I suspect your watch will be running at. Unless a course this is it 24 hours and it still should be a little higher.

ETA 2824-2 - Manufacturing Information.pdf

[CharlieButterworth]

John,

Thank-you for that information. I just re-measured the watch and dial-up, I get around 225 degrees amplitude and dial down it is around 219 degrees. So, it appears to be in the ballpark with regards to amplitude.