Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good evening all,

I've been working thus far on antique junk pocket watch movements which for all but a couple of examples, were missing parts.  This was to get comfortable learning how to use the tools and dis-and then assemble, etc.

I recently decided to gravitate in the other direction regarding size and began working on non-working micro watches.  The 30's era ladies wristwatches, the ones you can put the movement on a quarter with room to spare.  This was and remains quite a challenge.  I use an Optivisor #5 with an attached loupe for working on watches and with those small watches the loupe is used a lot.  I started with a couple watches I knew didn't work at all and did not get them working.  The third one I did, very weakly.  It gets a little discouraging to find that pivots are broken off, or pallet jewel is broken or whatever.  I don't have the tools to replace those.  Yet! 

Lessons learned:  Take pics.  Take more pics. Use something to provide a soft impact zone when pushing out a taper pin (ask me how I know...I never found it).  A microscope is a good thing, especially on those small movements.  Don't use force, even if G.I. Joe has been in there previously using a pneumatic drill to tighten up those screws.  Oil is your friend there.  Attach the set lever when putting in the set lever screw if a bridge goes over the screw.  Think about how the dial comes off if it doesn't have conventional dial feet like a pocket watch has (this was new to me not having worked on wristwatches yet).  Don't forget to put away the hand removers and start using one as a screwdriver.  There seems to be a learning curve to everything, even sharpening screwdrivers.  Don't multi-task when holding a screw slightly larger than a grain of sand!  I've learned I have a lot more to learn.

I'm not dropping screws or parts much, taper pin notwithstanding, and surprisingly to me, even with my slight tremor I can still manage the parts well enough most of the time.  I've got serious money into this now, with more tools I'll want to buy at some point.  I'm very good at hand cleaning I think.  I have an ultrasonic but still hand clean.  I need someone to smack me on the head and say, "Idiot!" from time to time to teach me what I've done wrong, but I say it aloud to myself anyway.  I've used polywatch and it works great.  Have not used my crystal press yet but will soon I think, as I picked up a batch of NOS crystals on ebay, cheap.  I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the hairspring when there's no boot or eccentric screw to turn and the curb pins can't seemingly be moved.  Surely it wasn't designed to have the curb pins manually spread to remove the hairspring, or maybe it comes out once the stud is freed?  I've not tried that yet on the movements which don't have the boot and curb pin. I have a balance I can test it on as I stupidly put one of those tiny balances in one dip and let go of the spring.  As I pulled the balance out I didn't think to try to capture the spring and the drag of the spring through the one dip lengthened the spring!  That goes under "lessons learned."  So I'm learning, I'm having fun, I haven't damaged anything of value but I haven't properly fixed anything yet either.  Progress?

Thanks for reading. 

chadman

  • Like 1
Posted

As long as you stick at it, with your enthusiasm you will make progress. With structured learning you will so even better. Have you thought about taking Mark's courses for example?

  • Like 2
Posted
8 hours ago, chadman said:

even with my slight tremor

One trick I saw on a video...when screwing in a screw, use a pair of tweezers to hold the the shaft of the screwdriver to stabilize it.  This addresses the shakes as well as the tendency to exert too much pressure causing any number of adverse events.  I dont do this all the time, but during some critical times.

  • Like 1
Posted

Have you thought about taking Mark's courses for example?

Thanks, and yes, his is the online course I took.  I just recently completed level 3.  They were very good courses for me.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, chadman said:

I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the hairspring when there's no boot or eccentric screw to turn and the curb pins can't seemingly be moved.

If you post a picture and a movement i.d. someone will be sure to know.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
    • Since I've been banned from the previous discussion, apparently my language was inappropriate...for small boys. I will start another thread and act in a more decent manner for the girls and ladies of the group.  Please what will happen if the forum can't be managed by the administrator, are there provisions in place to preserve the achived member's questions and answers over the years. Please if I may ask these important questions that are important to the members please.
×
×
  • Create New...