Jump to content

Balance truing tool improvisation

steve1811uk

By steve1811uk
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

steve1811uk WRT Addict

steve1811uk

Posted
Posted

Hi, I think that I got this for a good price £20 only. I had to improvise as it has a bit missing. What do you think? Will the paper clip work? I'm planning on sharpening the end of the clip into a more defined point. Any idea why the tool has two sides, is that for different pivot sizes?

IMG_20210701_123719553_HDR.jpg

  • Like 1
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

The paperclip will work fine, the original part is only used as a visual reference so no real difference. There are many versions of these, usually one side will have female cones with holes going rather deep in the center of the cone, then they are cross drilled. This allows the tool to hold a balance by the conical portion of the pivot, which is strong, and in the event a pivot does break, it can fall out either on its own or be pushed up to the cross drilled part. The other side will often just be simple female cones, but can also be a different size of the cone/drill/cross drill type. Sometimes they are actually male cones. On yours I don't see any cross drilling, but that shouldn't be an issue.

steve1811uk WRT Addict

steve1811uk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply. The conical side has very tiny holes and is cross drilled. I assume this side is for finer pivots. The other side, non conical is not cross drilled and has larger holes, I assume for larger pivots. Steve.

jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted

You need to get out your files and cutters and make one that’s exactly like the original. This is what I would do…plus it will give you a good reason to buy more tools:)

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted
39 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

You need to get out your files and cutters and make one that’s exactly like the original.

You are an electrical engineer, not mechanical...BUT...you ARE an engineer...you think like one regardless of the discipline.  I agree...it would be very gratifying to make the replacement part.  I think that is what I would do (also an EE).

Sometimes it is hard to know what is more gratifying...fixing a watch...or making the thing that helps me fix a watch.

  • Like 1
steve1811uk WRT Addict

steve1811uk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, I'm also an electronics engineer by the way. If I can find or buy some suitable steel then I will give that a go. I don't have much in the way of tools but I should be able to hand make something a bit sturdier than a paper clip 🙂

  • Like 1
LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, steve1811uk said:

If I can find or buy some suitable steel

Places to look: old printer (inkjet or laserjet), cassette deck...

I think a dremel tool and a set of precision files (from Home Depot) is all you will need.

jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

You are an electrical engineer, not mechanical...BUT...you ARE an engineer...you think like one regardless of the discipline.  I agree...it would be very gratifying to make the replacement part.  I think that is what I would do (also an EE).

Sometimes it is hard to know what is more gratifying...fixing a watch...or making the thing that helps me fix a watch.

Making tools is a NO FAIL adventure usually.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
Razz WRT Addict

Razz

Posted
Posted

I think you will want to have more than a paper clip if you actually have to adjust your balance.  I recently acquired this one for about $21.50.20240128_2254322.thumb.jpg.c818b503d53bbb4751ede0def37a1abe.jpg20240128_2255052.thumb.jpg.644b9d795fcc2e4ec076ef63c51cf441.jpg20240128_2259262.thumb.jpg.0c91389948eb43f9effe0b948b954589.jpg

steve1811uk WRT Addict

steve1811uk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 1/29/2024 at 6:04 AM, Razz said:

I think you will want to have more than a paper clip if you actually have to adjust your balance.  I recently acquired this one for about $21.50.20240128_2254322.thumb.jpg.c818b503d53bbb4751ede0def37a1abe.jpg20240128_2255052.thumb.jpg.644b9d795fcc2e4ec076ef63c51cf441.jpg20240128_2259262.thumb.jpg.0c91389948eb43f9effe0b948b954589.jpg

Nice tool. Paper clip sharpened to a point has worked very well thanks on a few occasions.

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HectorLooi
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Randy55
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By Randy55 · Posted

      Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Diy rotary cleaning machine

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • mikepilk
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By mikepilk · Posted

      In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...