Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have this cross slide which I refurbished many months ago, but never really used it.

Now I cannot figure out how to use it.  How to get the graver at the right position vertically?  Some fundamental piece of knowledge is missing in my brain.  As you can see, the graver is too high.  Maybe a different cut on the graver would solve this.  Dunno

Ideas?

2021-07-07 18_53_32-20210707_184704.jpg ‎- Photos.png

Posted
3 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Some fundamental piece of knowledge is missing in my brain.  As you can see, the graver is too high.  Maybe a different cut on the graver would solve this.  Dunno

as a variety of ways that this could work but usually the simplest is your missing something. I'm attaching an image there is supposed to be a piece that goes on the bottom that's curved so would allow you to tip the graver and get it in position.

although your bottom piece looks to tall like maybe it's not supposed to be there?

lathe tool holder.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I have this cross slide which I refurbished many months ago, but never really used it.

Now I cannot figure out how to use it.  How to get the graver at the right position vertically?  Some fundamental piece of knowledge is missing in my brain.  As you can see, the graver is too high.  Maybe a different cut on the graver would solve this.  Dunno

Ideas?

2021-07-07 18_53_32-20210707_184704.jpg ‎- Photos.png

What make is the lathe. On my Star lathe this set up would not work Just too high. Also I have to use small cutters that I made out of HSS steel 3/16 x 4 to fit so I use very rarely unless I need an absolute dead parallel cut perhaps you need smaller cutters too. See pic of the Star cross slide + a cutter I made. 
 

EF0A59D0-6942-423D-819A-1548EFFBC645.thumb.jpeg.2bd41ecd2a8331e881bb86830390a710.jpegB2326B12-2859-477E-96CF-9BF18E0B5B67.thumb.jpeg.fe6b15b28b08681671892e8bfb9dd125.jpeg1294B314-630E-4A6F-A35C-349419138992.thumb.jpeg.e20df1045036eff2481d6efee227fb08.jpeg

 

 

 

Posted
52 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Are you sure it's the right one for that lathe.

that is an unfortunate problem with watchmaker's lathe is of acquiring bits and pieces over time. there should be a name on the  lathe somewhere and another name or possibly the same name on the cross  Slide.

Then I'm wondering if the tool post holder is the right one for  this  lathe?

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I'm attaching an image there is supposed to be a piece that goes on the bottom that's curved so would allow you to tip the graver and get it in position.

That's a rocker tool post. But on the OP's tool post the knurled ring should be the height adjustment, it should be threaded somewhere.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, jdm said:

That's a rocker tool post. But on the OP's tool post the knurled ring should be the height adjustment, it should be threaded somewhere.

Yes, it is threaded and cranked all the way down.

 

Posted
1 minute ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Yes, it is threaded and cranked all the way down.

So when you unscrew it that will raise the tool to the correct vertical position. You should always try to align the cutting tip of the tool to the spindle axis, there are various methods to do that, all explained in the abundance of books and videos on the subject.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, jdm said:

So when you unscrew it that will raise the tool to the correct vertical position. You should always try to align the cutting tip of the tool to the spindle axis, there are various methods to do that, all explained in the abundance of books and videos on the subject.

Yes, I understand. But I cannot get it low enough to align with the spindle axis. John suggested a holder that has a rocker. I think that would work if I had one,

Posted
2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

But I cannot get it low enough to align with the spindle axis.

Which cutter size are you using, and how much down have you ground it?
A common HSS tool size is 3mm square, or 1/8". Even 2mm square is available. These are all good for watchmaking work. You could also check if it's feasible to cut off the last mm from the part that sits on the cross-slide.

 

Quote

John suggested a holder that has a rocker. I think that would work if I had one,

These normally are not recommended anymore but surely you can look into that, but be aware that as you point the tool down (or up), you will need to grind the rake accordingly, in practice that is a groove when seen by the side, which is slightly more difficult.
However for work done with a toolpost (which is not dominant in watchmaking), the demanding craftsman would upgrade to a Quick Change Tool Post. Examples of that are the Multifix AAA, or the Aloris MA. If after checking these out you will think they're expensive, then I will point you to the Swiss made ones.

  • Like 1
Posted

All of these types of lathes are 50mm height from the center of spindle to the bed- with the exception of Marshall/Peerless, who went with 2" height; but in this case that would be a help as that gives you an extra 0.8mm of height (not kidding, that can help!). But from memory you do have an actual Marshall slide, so either there is more adjustment in the post but something is sticking, or as above, you need a different one.

 

Dig though your stuff and see if there's another toolpost somewhere.

  • Like 1
Posted
50 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

All of these types of lathes are 50mm height from the center of spindle to the bed- with the exception of Marshall/Peerless, who went with 2" height;

I am not familiar with these lathes but in pics I see 3 slides, with the compound in the middle. The slides appear to have some thickness and a space in between, how can all that fit into 50.8mm and still have some distance from the top slide to the spindle? The adjusting knob is maybe just 0.8mm high, do one has to run it clockwise and cut with the bottom of the tool ?!?

  • Like 1
Posted

I presume the tool needs to be lower obviously higher is done with shims. If it requires lowering a fraction could you just reduce some of its adjuster height. 

  • Like 1
Posted
24 minutes ago, clockboy said:

I presume the tool needs to be lower obviously higher is done with shims. 

No shims needed, the knurled knob you see under the tool is to adjust its height.

 

Just now, nickelsilver said:

the bottom of the bottom slide should be smack on the bed, what's that gap?

That is the space I was referring to above.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Either that cross table is not the correct to the lathe or the post is the wrong type. The curled nob seems to be at the bottom locking the post in the upper cross-slide.
But looking at the picture you posted there is a possibility you could use that setup anyway.
You could grid a HSS tool so it is in the center of the lathe axis. If it is too high up from the center line it will not cut correctly and get dull faster and if it is to low, under the center line it will risk to catch and get stuck in the material you are cutting instead. The softer the material the greater this risk are.

Just grinding the tool needs a chapter of explaining itself.

GridToCenter.png.af2c41c6568a0a7f830552b7ddd1bddc.png

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

How do you have it mounted to the bed? the bottom of the bottom slide should be smack on the bed, what's that gap?

 

bed and slide.png

Dammit!!!!!!

This is the only lathe with that plate for mounting the rest.

I feel so dumb.

Tanks to everyone for working my issue so hard!!!!!!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Looks like glass with that bevel edge.
    • Update: The demagnetization only helped temporarily, maybe it pulled the wheels into a position where they liked each other. I have to adjust the sub second hand as it is a bit angled upwards and catching the minute hand stopping the whole movement but before this happened there were some wild deviations. HWGIKE#58 Alarm clock, cooked in hot cleaning fluid and oiled gently. This is a movement so I count it. 🙂 A while ago it tried to fly away one day, it was on my windows sill, we had strong wind the curtain flew like a flag and doing so encouraged my clock to do the same...  went out and ended up on the roof above the entrance door, its door in pieces but the clock itself suffered no damage otherwise. The original glass was already broken when I received it I still have the bottom part in two pieces. The new "glass" is acrylic. It also had a paper in the back in the case inside but it disintegrated, I still have a little bit of  piece of that too.     HWGIKE#59 Durowe 870 / Times M84 This particular instance is a D870, when I saw its worn out contact pin I thought that it must be a design flaw, and here we go: https://17jewels.info/movements/d/durowe/durowe-870/ An incredible movement again where the balance wheel drives the train and has two magnets one for the balance wheel/coil and one for the pallet. The magnet for the pallet is basically the "draw" one direction. The coil is about 1.8kOhm and one end is in contact with the main plate and the other end is soldered to a contact pin which is insulated by the means of putting it into a jewel and this contact pin is rubbing against a wire getting the energy/impulse as it is passing. Behind the contact pin there is an "impulse jewel" not sure why is it there... the wire seems to hit the impulse jewel first then the contact pin but maybe it is there only for insulation purposes? I was almost certain that the screw holding down the battery - (minus) clamp had no insulation washer.. i only noticed the green stuff around it coming from battery leakage... anyway the + and - had a shortcut which took me a while to realize.. had to fabricate one insulating washer on my own. The jewel settings were dirty but not it is all cleaned and oiled. The contact pin might work for a while but I am sure it has a short life. It is a front loader the whole thing is held together by the case so it is not possible to regulate it without putting it all together and taking the movement out of the case again, very inconvenient. A wonderful movement but not made for eternity only for the consumer market.  
    • Is it a crystal or an acrylic and just foggy with age?
    • The point I missed to make !   is ; moisture in the movement is the main problem, it can ruin  electronic components.   
    • @VWatchie I believe that function to turn ads off is a Patron and moderator perk as they contribute to the site with money or time respectively.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...