Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I would like to give a big THANKYOU to GEO for making me this lovely bow for my recently acquired jacot tool Also thanks to Marc for the heads up. This really is the best watch forum on the planet  :thumbsu:

post-89-0-71509100-1430045795_thumb.jpg

Made to fit the case.. What a Gent, Thankyou once again! :bow:

  • Like 3
Posted

This really is the best watch forum on the planet  :thumbsu:

 

Definitely an amazing one! Our plans for WORLD DOMINATION are panning out! :D

Nice of you Maurice! And thank you for the pic. Now you got quite a tool there!

 

@Geo: That is a very classy bow there Geo. I feel like thanking you for the nice gesture and it is not even for me!

 

PS. Do you actually need a lathe for the Jacot tool? Sorry for my ignorance but I've never used/had one...only seen a couple of pics/videos. Never the whole process/set up, etc.

  • Like 1
Posted

Do you actually need a lathe for the Jacot tool? Sorry for my ignorance but I've never used/had one...only seen a couple of pics/videos. Never the whole process/set up, etc.

No Bob, the Jacot tool is actually a small specialised lathe itself made for the final sizing and burnishing/polishing pivots.

You can get a safety driver for fitting into the headstock of a watchmakers lathe and a Jocot drum to fit the tailstock. To use it, the headstock spindle has to be locked and a bow used to turn the wheel and pinion in exactly the same way as a the one that Maurice has just purchased.

Posted

Thanks Geo, if it is not much to ask, do you have pics that illustrates your explanation. I'm having trouble picturing this in my head, the whole set up. I'm myself starting to think I may want to have one too since the lathe is not required! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

Thank you Maurice, interesting video and to the point. I would also like to see the whole set up and how to fix it to the bench if necessary...just to have an idea of what to buy (something that's ready to go for my first pivot).

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

I haven't used mine yet or I would post some pics for you. Im sure Marc used one in a video maybe somebody else could clarify? It is a tool thats warrants a video on its own.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...