Two New Repairs, Vintage Swiss Pieces

[Barsomn]

I inherited a few projects, the Mustang II watch is for my future father-in-law but the movement is modular (and difficult to get into so I can figure out why it's bound up with geartrain not moving.)

Any background on this? I don't have a clue as to the manufacturer, nor can I figure out how to (carefully) disassemble it from the current state. (Bonus points if you can guess the project watch in that movement photo.)

 

Second one is a mystery Swiss brand, inherited from a grandparent within the family who passed away at 100 years old. He knew how to value his time, but most of his collection was just cheap quartz pieces towards the end. I don't know anything about this brand, and I also cannot seem to get into the case with a knife. The corrosion doesn't help. This one ticks but I haven't put it on a timegrapher yet and the winding action is a little stiff.

There's a little knife easement in the caseback, but I cannot get any torque on it. Any suggestions? I don't want to break this one trying to get it open.

Thanks all! I've learned a lot in a short time working on HMT movements (similar to 60's Citizen 17J movements) but these two have me a bit dead in my tracks because they mean more than the throwaway watches I have purchased to disassemble and learn on.

Edited November 30, 2021 by Barsomn
Typo

[WatchMaker]

The movement looks like a Baumgartner 582 'digital: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&69&2uswk&Baumgartner_582_DIG

Onto the second watch ... should be interpreted as 'Diantus' rather than 'Diantvs'. If you there google something like diantus watch history you should have more luck.

For some case openings I have a normal screwdriver (with a good quality approx. 4mm steel blade) I filed down to thin the blade but still keep it's width. This is ideal for then putting in the opening recess and then a twist of the handle easily pries the case back off. I find this more reliable and controllable for where there is an opening recess than a more traditional case knife that can slip or not apply such even pressure.

[Barsomn]

21 hours ago, WatchMaker said:

The movement looks like a Baumgartner 582 'digital: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&69&2uswk&Baumgartner_582_DIG

Onto the second watch ... should be interpreted as 'Diantus' rather than 'Diantvs'. If you there google something like diantus watch history you should have more luck.

For some case openings I have a normal screwdriver (with a good quality approx. 4mm steel blade) I filed down to thin the blade but still keep it's width. This is ideal for then putting in the opening recess and then a twist of the handle easily pries the case back off. I find this more reliable and controllable for where there is an opening recess than a more traditional case knife that can slip or not apply such even pressure.

Thank you for your replies WatchMaker!

Especially on the Baumgartner, you are right on the money. I may get bolder in attempting to disassemble it or at least separate the movement from its' caseback.

I did try that after making my post and found it's pretty common, and still exists under the Swatch Group. 

Diantus Watch Ltd. - Swatch Group

I work on cars a lot, so going for a small screwdriver with a quality blade seems like the best bet. Was recently burned by an HMT Sona case with a particularly difficult caseback so trying again with a fresh perspective may be all that it takes.

[Barsomn]

I was able to get the Diantus caseback off. Thanks @WatchMaker! It's the pin-lever single jewel EB8800 movement, as anticipated. That one should be relatively easy to service or source spares for. I'll add pictures eventually.

Trying to get the Baumgartner apart and determine why it is locked up or source a whole replacement movement for, next.

[WatchMaker]

Hi @Barsomn - ah great; glad that worked. Thanks for letting us know. Any engineering, watch repairs included, need some satisfying bespoke tools! 

The EB8800 came in different varieties from zero jewels to 21 jewels. The most common problem on the more basic versions with no shock protection is a broken balance staff pivot. Someone years ago could have accidentally dropped the watch or it had a sharp knock, a pivot sheers and that puts paid to the watch working.

So this would be the first thing to check: with any residual power taken out of the mainspring as per normal best practice then remove the balance and inspect the staff pivots. Bent? Sheered off? You'd be best off sourcing a balance complete or working donor movement as without the right tools, balance staff replacement isn't for the novice. Or you might fancy a challenge of course. 

If the pivots look straight and intact then the movement may just need a good service.  

[Barsomn]

Always an adventure, but the correct tools make the job much easier @WatchMaker. I hope to grow out my arsenal of good hand tools, etc. and come up with smart ways to do the rest (cleaning, paint or lume work.)

 

That's true, I was wondering what could be bad if it runs for several hours and then stops or if it's just in need of a service. You make a point on bent vs. sheared balance staff. The timegrapher reading is all over the place but mostly negative, looks like a proper snow storm.

I thought if the balance staff broke you were pretty much dead in the water, but it could just be ever so slightly bent from a hard knock.

The EB8800 movements are relatively cheap and plentiful. It looks like I might actually be better off buying a running example than just the movement alone. Wondering if it would be better to replace it with one that has more jewels (as opposed to just the one on my balance.)

I'm sure it's a common theme where I feel bad taking a watch apart that is running to fix one that isn't running, but that happens a lot with cars too. I'm fairly comfortable replacing a balance after working with those vintage 17J movements, so long as I do not stress the hairspring as I'm not good enough to manipulate it back into shape. I'll admit.

Donor movement for the Mustang II watch project comes in this week too! I believe it should be here by tomorrow.

Once I have some more time, I can finally add photos to this post. Need a day set aside for my projects to break the tools out again and get to work.

 

[LittleWatchShop]

23 minutes ago, Barsomn said:

I'm sure it's a common theme where I feel bad taking a watch apart that is running to fix one that isn't running,

Yup.  I have been facing this with Vulcain Crickets.  I finally got a donor that had enough wrong with it that I will JUST use it for parts.