L&R Cleaning Machines

[JulianK]

1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Notice the springs under the blades.  They are necessary but I dont see them on the one you show.

 

Yeah that's interesting, although on mine I see something in the middle of the machine almost like a vertical spring. If it is truly missing I would imagine it is virtuall impossible to replace and would require fabrication.

[JulianK]

On 1/30/2022 at 8:49 PM, LittleWatchShop said:

here you go

Apologize for the spamming but just wanted to share the spring design of my machine. The rubber stopper at the top of the spindle seems to be cracking pretty severely. 

[LittleWatchShop]

40 minutes ago, JulianK said:

Apologize for the spamming but just wanted to share the spring design of my machine. The rubber stopper at the top of the spindle seems to be cracking pretty severely. 

This spring style should work fine.  As far as the rubber cracking.  Not a big issue unless rubber is falling into the jar.

If it were mine, I would remove the rubber and design a replacement and print it using TPU filament on a 3D printer.  But, if you do not have that skill nor a 3D printer, maybe you can just get some rubber gasket material and fashion a replacement.

[ED209]

Greetings everyone, hope all is well.

 

First apologies for not posting more as I am just getting setup and still learning so not really of much help...yet that is   Since I'm just starting out, I wasn't going to get a cleaning machine just yet, however I found a great deal on an L&R Master Cleaning machine, but it needed some light restoration (wiring was all dried out, Rheostat finicky, etc.).  Anyway as I was removing the bottom propeller, not the one that's screwed on but the one that is friction fit and held with a set screw, and it just fell apart.  My guess was that it already had cracks in it as it broke VERY easily.  So while it sucks that I won't be able to use it, I rather that have broken now than further down the road.  It'd the actual part that holds the baskets.

 

So this leads me to my cry for help.  Does anyone have a spare, perhaps from a donor machine or anything?  I posted a pic of what it did look like and what it is now

 

There is one other part that broke and I'm hoping the JB Weld will work, but figured I'd mention it in case someone had this too.  It is the housing that holds the spring and brushes, the little black plastic housing that has threads.  I posted a pic of that too.

 

I know this is probably a very LONG shot but I just had to ask and appreciate any help and\or if anyone knows anywhere I can source these parts, I would much appreciate it.  If it helps, today's my birthday LOL, I know that's low playing that card but I'm desperate LOL.

 

Stay safe everyone

 

 

Edited February 1, 2022 by ED209

[LittleWatchShop]

Bummer. That is part that I would imagine hard to find. It looks like it could be made, however. If it were mine, I would attempt a 3D printed solution.

Where in the world are you?  My issue with 3D printing things like this is that it is very iterative.  If you lived in the neighborhood, we could get it done.  Thus the question about your geographic location.

[ED209]

Yeah, I know what you mean and figured it's a long shot but hey I will have everything else looking good and working LOL.

 

I live near Pensacola, FL. and yeah I would love to be able to just get a 3D printed part as that would be easiest and that way I could have spares LOL.

 

Thanks for any and all help.

[LittleWatchShop]

10 minutes ago, ED209 said:

Pensacola

Close enough.  Let me noodle on it.  I have one of the same vintage, so I can get the measurements from it.  This would be one of my more complex designs!  But I am always looking for a challenge.  In the mean time, keep looking.  Also think about repurposing something else.  This design just reminds me of vintage paint stirrers.

[ED209]

58 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Close enough.  Let me noodle on it.  I have one of the same vintage, so I can get the measurements from it.  This would be one of my more complex designs!  But I am always looking for a challenge.  In the mean time, keep looking.  Also think about repurposing something else.  This design just reminds me of vintage paint stirrers.

 

Thanks so much and happy to help pay for time\effort and materials, just let me know. 
 

Since others who have this machine might come across this thread, does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove this bearing as it didn’t stay on the rod when I disassembled, so not sure what that means?  I planned on replacing both and the switches and the Rheostat, so if anyone knows where to get these and how to remove this bearing, I’d appreciate it. 
 

One last thing, sorry, my machine had a ceramic resistor, pic attached, and all the other pics I’ve come across don’t have this, so curious why my machine does?  It was manufactured 7/13/1949. 
 

Thanks again

[HectorLooi]

There are internal jaw bearing pullers available. Something like this:-

SG$ 34.14  19%OFF | Motorcycle Internal Inner Bearing Extractor Bearing Removal Wheel Gear Remover Pulling Extractor Bearing Pullers Steel Tool Kit
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPgk2co

You have to find one that fits the internal diameter of the bearing.

[LittleWatchShop]

That resistor is probably there to current limit to the motor when the rheostat is set at full (or zero ohms).  Here is one place to get a suitable replacement.

What do you want to remove the bearing?

Edited February 2, 2022 by LittleWatchShop

[ED209]

25 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

There are internal jaw bearing pullers available. Something like this:-

SG$ 34.14  19%OFF | Motorcycle Internal Inner Bearing Extractor Bearing Removal Wheel Gear Remover Pulling Extractor Bearing Pullers Steel Tool Kit
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPgk2co

You have to find one that fits the internal diameter of the bearing.

Thanks for the info, so glad they make a tool  

 

2 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

That resistor is probably there to current limit to the motor when the rheostat is set at full (or zero ohms).  Here is one place to get a suitable replacement.

What do you want to remove the bearing?

Thanks for sending the link for an updated component as I know it works but rather have something newer. 
 

Regarding the bearing, shouldn’t it be attached to the rod and not stuck at the top of the housing?

 

I tested this before to ensure it worked, which it did but very very loud and shook so assuming the bearings need replacing and just figured they are 70 years old and might as well replace while I’m cleaning everything and updating the wiring as existing wire is basically crumbling. 
 

There’s another thread where someone did a restoration of this model and they posted the bearing size and the types of switches and Rheostat  

Thanks again everyone for any and all help. 
 

Do they make a more modern version of the heater resistor?

 

 

[LittleWatchShop]

6 minutes ago, ED209 said:

rather have something newer

??? Newer?  What does that mean?

[ED209]

Just now, LittleWatchShop said:

??? Newer?  What does that mean?

Just meant a newer replacement as I’m sure these components are not going to last forever and the other side of it was all black.

 

Is it not a good idea to replace these 70+ year old components?  Just what I typically do for a restore with electrical components.

[LittleWatchShop]

3 minutes ago, ED209 said:

Just meant a newer replacement as I’m sure these components are not going to last forever and the other side of it was all black.

 

Is it not a good idea to replace these 70+ year old components?  Just what I typically do for a restore with electrical components.

Well, I sent you to a site offering a Dale 40 ohm resistor. Then you said you wanted something newer.  That was my confusion.  Replacing the resistor you showed above...sure...get a new one...like the Dale.

[ED209]

12 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Well, I sent you to a site offering a Dale 40 ohm resistor. Then you said you wanted something newer.  That was my confusion.  Replacing the resistor you showed above...sure...get a new one...like the Dale.

Gotcha, yeah I should have clarified, when I said I know it works, I was talking about the existing ceramic resistor and that I would like the option to get a newer component, like the one you mentioned

 

[HectorLooi]

I think the resistor would work just fine. It's just a coil of resistance wire encased in a ceramic shell. But if you want to replace it.... go ahead.

If you can't find a correct size bearing puller, you can build your own by using a long hex bolt. Trim the head until it can fit through the hole of the motor casing but still engage the internal raceway of the bearing. Then on the inside, get a short length of pipe that is wide enough to rest on the rim of the casing and not press on the bearing itself. Thread the modified bolt through the bearing from the top and place the tube on the other side. Put a large washer over the tube and screw down a nut. This will put an axial force on the bearing and pull it out.

[ED209]

Found a bearing puller set at Harbor Freight and while I know some less expensive tools are to be avoided, if I need a tool once in a while or every blue moon, I usually get that one at Harbor Freight unless it has to do with safety, etc.

 

Problem is, I found 2 options, one less expensive and one about $50 more and not sure what the difference is, anyone with a lot more experience than me know?

 

I’m not sure if I’m allowed to link products but if you search Harbor Freight for 56894, that is $26.99 and the other 62601 is $72.99.

 

Thanks again for all the help and sharing the knowledge.

[LittleWatchShop]

26 minutes ago, ED209 said:

I’m not sure if I’m allowed to link products

Sure you can...unless you are the CEO of Harbor Freight.

[ED209]

3 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Sure you can...unless you are the CEO of Harbor Freight.

LOL, ok they are below and idiot me didn’t realize you had posted a link already, geez I’m losing it:

https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-puller-set-14-pc-56894.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789265198&adsetid=117789265198&product=56894&store=762&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0eOPBhCGARIsAFIwTs4Gf0RWT57HVReUfizeFilizOMeiu-eS3BADZk6gEVaH-j4MjiivqgaAnehEALw_wcB

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

 

 

32 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

I think the resistor would work just fine. It's just a coil of resistance wire encased in a ceramic shell. But if you want to replace it.... go ahead.

If you can't find a correct size bearing puller, you can build your own by using a long hex bolt. Trim the head until it can fit through the hole of the motor casing but still engage the internal raceway of the bearing. Then on the inside, get a short length of pipe that is wide enough to rest on the rim of the casing and not press on the bearing itself. Thread the modified bolt through the bearing from the top and place the tube on the other side. Put a large washer over the tube and screw down a nut. This will put an axial force on the bearing and pull it out.

Thanks for the help, unfortunately I don’t have any of those types of spare parts or pipes, I don’t do too many of these types of restores, usually it’s electronics, arcade machines or pinball machines.

[LittleWatchShop]

Here is a simple conceptual of the frame...just a concept.

[ED209]

4 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Here is a simple conceptual of the frame...just a concept.

 

Wow that was fast, I know it’s just a concept but that’s cool and I’ve always been fascinated by those who can design parts.

 

I wonder how difficult the blades as well as the threaded hole where the setting screw goes in?  

 

I thought about the actual posts that hold the main basket and didn’t know if that would be 3D printed or if a screw\post would be mounted.

 

You can tell I have no clue about designs, etc.  I posted a WTB thread in another forum just to see but no replies yet.  I’ll keep looking for anything similar and agree with your original thought that it reminds me of the attachment on paint stirrers, would be amazing if I could find something stronger than the previous metal they used as once a piece broke, it didn’t seem like metal but more like lead or something.

[ED209]

Found some promising options but the largest is 2 3/8 in. and from what I can tell with mine, granted it’s not a perfect circle to get an accurate measurement but it’s closer to 2 3/4 in.  So modifications would have to be made to use existing basket holder. 
 

 

[ED209]

I wonder if I could use JB Weld to fix it or perhaps it could be traditionally welded back together?

 

I have used JB Weld before but never welded anything. Other issue is the blades twisted down when they broke off so while I could get the blades back on straight enough, the center piece would be tricky. 
 

Still haven’t come across a 3 inch mixer blade yet. 
 

Apologies to the moderators for posting this in the wrong section. 
 

Thanks again everyone for the help. 

[LittleWatchShop]

18 minutes ago, ED209 said:

I wonder if I could use JB Weld to fix it or perhaps it could be traditionally welded back together?

I have used JB for a lot of things and most of the time it has worked.  It is worth a try.  I am printing something right now.  Have decided that it will take a lot of time to draw the blades, so I may propose attaching wings to the spokes with...perhaps JB Weld!  Will report back soon.

[jdm]

29 minutes ago, ED209 said:

I wonder if I could use JB Weld to fix it or perhaps it could be traditionally welded back together?

Not welded, that's the really hot and deep way to join metals and would melt it away. But they can be soldered, or brazed. I would try asking a radiator shop and prefer that to gluing.