Jump to content

Destroyed dial what are my options ?

richiesgr

By richiesgr
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

richiesgr Watch Enthusiast

richiesgr

Posted
Posted

Hi

I'm asking what to do for a really destroyed dial of vintage SEIKO 7625E. I've not found any replacement only a full watch 

I post a picture to show you I'm asking myself what could have caused this

Thanks 

IMG_20220102_195857.jpg

IMG_20220102_195911.jpg

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, richiesgr said:

I'm asking what to do for a really destroyed dial of vintage SEIKO 7625E

That is one of the predecessors of the 7S25B, that is the date-only version of the ubiquitous 7S26. An original part is not impossible to be found, but likely excessively expensive, You can probably find a direct replacement after-market dial in the large offering for "Seiko modders", as it's the same size and they love no day or no calendar dials. 

  • Thanks 1
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

These 7625 are not too common so if you see one with a good dial grab it. These early Seikos are really nice.

Worst case I would paint the dial and polish the markers and salvage a Seiko emblem from a later watch and stick that on. Fiddly but you've got nothing to loose. Alternative is to get someone to airbrush the edges and blend new paint in. The guys who do scale modelling can do amazing things with an airbrush,

Anilv

bklake WRT Addict

bklake

Posted
Posted

I have a similar condition dial from a 6106.  The previous owner tried to remove the Seiko emblem from behind.  It looks to me, like the feet of the emblem and markers are staked, peened or otherwise compressed into the holes and they will not come out.  I'm sure the dial refinish pros have some tricks to remove them.  I tried to airbrush the dial after carefully masking each hour marker and the emblem.  It's not easy.  I lost the sunburst effect and paint around the markers is too thin.  They have to come off to restore the radial finish and get the paint to lay flat.  My dial was beyond gone and I had nothing to lose.  Learned a lot.  Like send it out to a good refinisher if you want it to look right.  

I have seen these dials on Yahoo Japan but I haven't looked for a 7625 for some time.  The going rate for a grey dial scared me off quickly.  The silver dials are more common and more affordable.  Those grey dials are really good looking dials. 

  • 3 weeks later...
richiesgr Watch Enthusiast

richiesgr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi update,

By the end to not just  throw the watch I've ordered a Chinese dial who of course don't have any relation to the original dial but at least something.

I've tried to negotiate for an original dial on internet but the seller was selling the full watch (I need only the dial) at 100$ !?!

Anyway I post the dial I bought just to give an idea 

IMG_20220119_172830__01.jpg

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • luiazazrambo
      WWW Eterna sucked me in.

      By luiazazrambo · Posted

      I put the original broken glass (whats left of it) behind the acrylic. This is how it originally looked like. A cheap clock but I like it. Very noisy when the alarm comes wake up guaranteed! 🙂
    • mbwatch
      Automatic vs Manual movement servicing

      By mbwatch · Posted

      If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • LittleWatchShop
      Breitling Navitimer 806

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • tonydagee
      Unitas 6376

      By tonydagee · Posted

      I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Bonefixer
      Breitling Navitimer 806

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
×
×
  • Create New...