Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi clockboy,

 

As I was saying I do mine by hand. I use surgical gloves and found that one size smaller helps (I use medium normally, changed to small and they are very tight and a pain to put on/off, but no glove gets in the way).

 

I think that a Seiko spring in the video (7S26 et al). :)

Edited by bobm12
Posted

Hi clockboy,

 

As I was saying I do mine by hand. I use surgical gloves and found that one size smaller helps (I use medium normally, changed to small and they are very tight and a pain to put on/off, but no glove gets in the way).

 

I've read elsewhere that it's not risk free by hand - ignoring the idea of a wound spring sitting close to one's face ;), there's also the possibility of kinking the spring or putting a twist on it so that it rubs against the barrel bottom or top instead of floating between the two. Probably most likely with folk like me who are a danger to anything we set our eyes on in watchmaking :P.

Posted

Hi Padraic,

 

I use a visor to work on watches so I don't know how would it be with other means, but I don't think I do this too close to my eyes so no danger there.

 

Actually I almost do this at arms lengh, so to speak, considering that it is more of a tactile activity than anything else. Also I don't roll the spring like in the video but "place" every turn as it should go, avoiding kinks and bends. On the Seiko above, there is a critical section where the double spring ends and the single side continues which tends to "bend" the spring. I use my tweezers -- gently -- to make that transition smoothly and facilitate a proper path for the spring.

 

In my mind, even though a winder is helpful and good ones save time and gives a "factory" finish so to speak (during the process, after the process all are the same weather if by hand or device if done properly), again, done properly gives you more of a feeling of your task....gets you closer to the actual machine I believe....

 

But that is what I believe and my way to do things. Again, just for a hobby's sake, not volume or proffessional deal.

Posted

A Bergeon half set sold on ebay today for £246, pricey but you get what you pay for as they say.

 

True. But, keeping with the cheaper options (incl. customs/VAT from US):

 

£71:

 

Schilling Bracelet Winders: Set of 7 in sizes 6mm to 10mm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Schilling-Bracelet-Watch-Mainspring-winder-Set-Watch-Craft-Marshall-Style-/231356758602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ddeffa4a

 

£102:

 

K&D 123X-3: Three adjustable winders covering 4-6mm, 5-8mm, and 8-11mm (from the cross-over, this might not be entirely accurate).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Kendrick-Davis-Co-Set-of-3-No-123X-3-Adjustable-Mainspring-Winders-123-/331342897028?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d25935f84

 

£130:

 

Watch-Craft: Set of 8 in sizes 5mm to 10mm.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nice-Watch-Craft-Bracelet-Watch-Mainspring-winder-Set-Schilling-C-E-Marshall-/231356995010?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ddf395c2

 

Tempted to just get the cheap Schilling and give it a go. I can always sell them on if it doesn't work out to get back some of the cost. Probably less of a pain than adjusting the K&D ones, since adjustables do not appear to have ruled the market so far, presumably for a good reason. Very similar to the Watch-Craft winders but half the price.

Posted (edited)

I wind my mainsprings by hand routinely--in fact, I did one tonight for an old Waltham 17 Jewel movement someone gave me. I use nitrile surgical gloves and its no problem at all. I guess you could say I take my time and go very methodically keeping each 1/2 wind pinched on one side, then the other as I put it in. I wear flip down magnifiers that cover my eyes and have a LED light on top (yeah I'm a real nerd!) so I don't worry about my eyes. I bought the magnifier from Cousins UK and it is indispensable to me. I recently did finally win a nice vintage set of winders that I should be getting soon, so hopefully I won't be winding by hand anymore. I have gotten good enough that I can wind it in and close it up in about 5 minutes. 

 

Here's the set I got

post-328-0-25895800-1414043238.jpg

Edited by noirrac1j
Posted

Some small clock springs are just too small for my clock mainspring winder. So then I use gloves & a large clear plastic bag so if it does fly that bag saves the day.

Posted

True. But, keeping with the cheaper options (incl. customs/VAT from US):

 

£102:

 

K&D 123X-3: Three adjustable winders covering 4-6mm, 5-8mm, and 8-11mm (from the cross-over, this might not be entirely accurate).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Kendrick-Davis-Co-Set-of-3-No-123X-3-Adjustable-Mainspring-Winders-123-/331342897028?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d25935f84

 

 

 

I have this set and find it brilliant with few problems, mind you I didn't pay that much. From the US, with customs, mine came in at £37.16...... :)

Posted (edited)

The winders....the Lilliput winders are for special projects. Hey did anyone see my question about the balance roller vs balance finger? Do I have the etails right on their differences? Thanks!

JCpost-328-0-42541800-1414076484_thumb.jpg

Edited by noirrac1j
Posted

Well they sure are pretty looking--color coded and everything! But $119 dollars is alittle steep unless you want them pronto.  I paid less than half of that for the set pictured above. They aren't new...but they are complete.

 

JC

Posted

I've scrounged the Internet looking for cheap sets but I think it requires a bit of luck or a lot of persistence.

I went for the Schilling set myself. That Larry's Watch page has one of those - possibly even a nicer set for $99.

If anyone looking for a set finds them a lot cheaper, and assuming in good usable condition, just get them before someone else spots them.

Posted

 I replaced a mainspring in a watch yesterday using my K&D winder. I put a tiny,tiny smudge of grease on the pin that grabs the spring and low & behold it slipped out a treat when replacing the spring. Hoping I have overcome this annoying fault.

Time will tell!!!!!

Posted (edited)

JC,

 

Let me know how these are working for you? I have my eye on a set like this.

 

Thanks!

Hey Gary,

yes I will let you know. They're scheduled to come on Monday--just in time to try them out on my latest project--an old Cordura  Sea-Gull with a 17 Jewel BFG 158 31/7 movement.

 

JC

Edited by noirrac1j
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I was going to buy mainspring winders separately and was wondering what are the most used MM for wrist watches?

Also, I want to order from Cousins. I live in the USA. Can I get more because the $ is more then the £?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I got mine from uncle Larry but I'm not sure I got a brand that works seeing that some members with the same set have been having problems on higher end watches. (K&D)

Edited by bobm12
Posted (edited)

I use a K&D winder that I purchased from uncle Larry. However I found with the larger barrels that tend to be on the higher grade watches the winding shafts are way to fat. This causes issues when trying to release the spring from the shaft before loading the spring into the watch barrel. The best is without doubt Bergeon but they are not cheap. Ofrei supply individual barrels BUT they are not Bergeon but should work with the Bergeon kit. In my opinion the best way forward I think is to purchase the Bergeon half set approx. £400 & then try to add to it as & when.

 

​PS I have ordered today the half set 

Edited by clockboy
Posted

 

Can I get more because the $ is more then the £?

 

Sorry about this remark but it comes to mind that you shed more dollars for each pound...maybe that's why americans are overweight? :)

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...