Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

When replacing the battery on my Skagen 858XLSLN and pressing the caseback back on using my case press, the bezel fit crystal (crystal+bezel around it) popped off. I must have used the wrong case press fitting this time.

Now it won't pop back in with my case press, even when choosing the right fitting that only puts pressure on the bezel ring itself/outer edge. Any tips to get this back on? Adhesive?

Photos attached. First picture shows the crystal+bezel+gasket upside down. Second pic shows it the correct side facing up. Thanks!

 

IMG_20220125_123445490.jpgIMG_20220125_123508013.jpg

Edited by ArmchairArchitect
Posted

I should stay away from glueing it on. Depending on the type of press, Robur screw type or the chinese hand type. Some times the hand press is just not enough. I have both types and where the hand type failed the screw type did the job, I thinks is because the screw type exerts a more even and controlled pressure. Some of these bazel rings like case backs can be tight.

Posted

Case and bezel need to start and continue perfectly parallel. Remove the caseback so the case is supported better. Try rotating the case around so it's pressed evenly. It can be very tricky without a good screw press.

Posted

Thanks both- I tried rotating it many times and pressing with each rotation, and also tried put a ton of force onto it. Tried without caseback as well. No luck.

The strange part is that when I push it down with just my hand, there is literally no gap between the bezel and the case the entire way around. I would expect to see one side lifted up, like on a caseback. I wonder if it somehow came out of shape or something, and thus won't press in?

Posted

I didn't noticed before but on the bezel there is an o-ring which is supposed to hold by being squeezed, a terrible system really. Try moving it to the case or in between while you press, there can be a bevel that helps it go into place.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, jdm said:

I didn't noticed before but on the bezel there is an o-ring which is supposed to hold by being squeezed, a terrible system really. Try moving it to the case or in between while you press, there can be a bevel that helps it go into place.

Just tried putting it on the case instead of leaving it around the bezel...it caused the o-ring to sever and break when I used the press. Then I discarded the broken o-ring and tried pressing on without the o-ring, still no luck.

Baffled as to why there isn't even a gap around the entire perimeter of the bezel even when pushing down by hand. You would expect there to be a gap if it wasn't on all the way. I'm starting to think the bezel was held down to the case with adhesive (although I don't see any obvious signs of adhesive unless it's on there super thin, plus it's a metal-to-metal surface)- is that a thing with Skagen watches?

Edited by ArmchairArchitect
Posted
8 hours ago, ArmchairArchitect said:

 is that a thing with Skagen watches?

No adhesive, it's friction held as mentioned, you can replace the o ring and use a bit of silicon grease to have it go in place. 

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted

Try freezing it to shrink the bezel then quickly put it in the case make sure the case is at high room temperature it may just go in.

 

Also post on here vernier measurements of the inner case dims and the bezel dims.

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 8/17/2022 at 10:14 AM, Colditz said:

Try freezing it to shrink the bezel then quickly put it in the case make sure the case is at high room temperature it may just go in.

 

Also post on here vernier measurements of the inner case dims and the bezel dims.

...what about internal condensation when it  gets back to room temp...?

  • 5 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi guys. @VWatchie Those images are self hosted (not hosted on this server). Do a look at the page source and you will see this. I’m afraid, I can’t have control or backup images not hosted on this server. ( They seem to be served from here: https://qehvsw.bn.files.1drv.com/) This server is backed up fully every night and the database is backed up and versioned every hour, all stored off site on Amazon S1 platform. It’s hard for us to lose data. Ive got a huge overhead of space on this particular server the site is served from so no worries there 🙂 Sorry all for lack of response so far, I have been extremely busy and am embarrassed to say that priorities had to be set in place for a while.  Be assured that i’ve got constant monitoring and alerts should the site be in an extended problematic state (down etc) and work on these issues if they arise.
    • Web sites are cheap. Message board are easy. Hosting both is less than 100 usd a year and small advertising would cover most of that.  In the discord group we did some 15 min poc and threw up a couple of different message boards on a domain i host.   The real value is the data / information / hive mind While I'm a rank amateur in watch repair the information and assistance on this board is invaluable. The members on here are friendly, entertaining and a wealth of knowledge This is what needs to be preserved  --Jeff
    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
×
×
  • Create New...