Quality Chinese Tools

[valleyguy]

Knebo, does your new vevor 5700 have key of watch on the base, i've seen a seller on ebay selling the vevor 5700 that ships from the UK, i will order one of these if your vevor one is ok.

Edited October 4, 2024 by valleyguy

[Knebo]

42 minutes ago, valleyguy said:

Knebo, does your new vevor 5700 have key of watch on the base, i've seen a seller on ebay selling the vevor 5700 that ships from the UK, i will order one of these if your vevor one is ok.

Yes, it says "Key of Watch" on one side and "Ling Hui No 5788" on the other side. 

In the meantime, I've also tested it on two watches and it worked perfectly. All the accessories are also well-aligned/centered. 

 

[mikepilk]

9 minutes ago, Knebo said:

Yes, it says "Key of Watch" on one side and "Ling Hui No 5788" on the other side. 

Mine says that on the side too. I suspect one company casts the frames, and others add the bits.

[Simeon]

Has anyone else noticed that there's a 'new' Horia jeweling tool clone available that is much cheaper than the normal one. It *looks* the same but the pushers and stumps are contained in a cheap matchwood box instead of the cheap plastic tray.

Of course the description is not clear about what the specification of the tool is (or even what it is for!) so I can't tell if this has 4mm or 3mm stumps for instance. 

$98 AUD for this one whereas the usual clone is about $160 AUD

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrLlxeG

[VWatchie]

On 10/4/2024 at 1:47 PM, Knebo said:

From the initial inspection, I'm very content. I'm glad to have sent back the other one, which was inferior to this one.

Glad it worked out for you and judging by the pictures you published it looks exactly like mine! 

[mbwatch]

On 10/20/2024 at 10:18 PM, Simeon said:

Has anyone else noticed that there's a 'new' Horia jeweling tool clone

Tempting, but based on prior experience I would avoid it. When I was starting out, I bought the red aluminum crystal screw press for $35 less than the typical price. It arrived incorrectly assembled and was generally a QA disaster. Now I assume any alix seller with a too good to be true price on a tool probably has a batch of faulty ones or factory rejects they want to unload.

With some research and perseverance, and replacement hardware, I eventually got my crystal press to work correctly.

[HectorLooi]

I have no qualms about buying from AliExpress. It's true that some tools might be a little rough and a sometimes a QC disaster but at 1/5 to 1/10 the price of a "Swiss" made equivalent, I'm willing to take the risk. Usually, with a bit of fiddling and refinishing, it will work just fine.

[mbwatch]

I'm willing to take the risk on any aliexpress tool, but not if I find one that is markedly discounted from its typical alix price.

[gpraceman]

I think my journey for a good crystal press is over.  I just got the press shown below and am liking it so far.  Far better than the other two cheaper Chinese ones that I have tried.  It is solidly built.  Can also be used to open snap on casebacks and adjusting metal band links, so it is a 3-in-1 tool.  I had the problem opening up a Waltham wristwatch with a caseback knife and this opened it up no problem.

What I don't like about it is that you need an Allen wrench to change out the upper bit.  Maybe I can change out that grub screw for a knurled head screw.  Also, the handle turns opposite of what I expected.  Counter-clockwise to lower and clockwise to raise.  I'll get used to it.  It did not come with the crystal press dies, but those are pretty inexpensive to get a set of nylon or aluminum ones.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806922669039.html

Started with one like this.  Ended up getting it for free, as I had to repair it.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806885195604.html

Then tried this one.  Was certainly better than the first, but sold it when I thought that I was getting a vintage Robur press (press only) that ended up getting lost in the mail.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805690261587.html

 

As a crystal press:

As a caseback opener:

To adjust watch band links:

Bit storage:

Edited October 30, 2024 by gpraceman

[GuyMontag]

Looks very similar to my Bergeon 8250

[RickTock]

6 hours ago, gpraceman said:

I think my journey for a good crystal press is over... It did not come with the crystal press dies, but those are pretty inexpensive to get a set of nylon or aluminum ones.

Thanks for your review. Do you have a recommendation for a good set of crystal press dies? Cheers!

[gpraceman]

11 minutes ago, RickTock said:

Thanks for your review. Do you have a recommendation for a good set of crystal press dies? Cheers!

I am using the nylon dies that came with my first cheap press.  You can get a set of those for pretty cheap from AliExpress.  There's also aluminum dies for a bit more and combination aluminum and nylon dies.

[GuyMontag]

11 hours ago, RickTock said:

Thanks for your review. Do you have a recommendation for a good set of crystal press dies? Cheers!

I bought these two and they work very well. I also liked that they came in a case.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802449978843.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807258243597.html

I also picked up a set of nylon dies but they are crap so I didn't link those.

[gpraceman]

37 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

I bought these two and they work very well. I also liked that they came in a case.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802449978843.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807258243597.html

I also picked up a set of nylon dies but they are crap so I didn't link those.

I bought that set of aluminum dies.  I haven't used them much yet, but will likely switch to those and sell my cheaper press along with the nylon dies.  I do like that my aluminum set has a storage box, which my nylon set does not.

Edited October 31, 2024 by gpraceman

[Knebo]

On 6/8/2024 at 2:37 PM, rjenkinsgb said:

The plastic tip pushers look like hand fitting tips? The blue banded one is a small solid tip, the other three are increasing sizes with hollow tips.

Hi @rjenkinsgb, can you measure the thread diameter of those hand fitting pushers? 

On 6/8/2024 at 2:37 PM, rjenkinsgb said:

kit).

 

The one top right on first picture and on the side of the last one. 

[mikepilk]

Has anyone bought a 'cheapish' 4K camera which works correctly with an Amscope microscope trinocular port? 

[rjenkinsgb]

I got one of these as part of a set of parts for a digital only microscope; the camera is really excellent, a real Sony sensor & 4K hdmi out or 1080 HD via USB to a PC, using the driver off the makers web site.

It's a standard C mount type so should work with any microscope that you can get a C mount adapter for, if its not got that already.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145299961892?var=444494619961

It looks like Amscope sell C mount adapters for the trinocular microscope:

https://amscope.co.uk/collections/adapters

 

[Knebo]

@mikepilk this combo works for me an my AmScope:

C-mounts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009985936.html

Camera: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004505495207.html

[mikepilk]

6 minutes ago, Knebo said:

@mikepilk this combo works for me an my AmScope:

C-mounts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009985936.html

Camera: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004505495207.html

Can you zoom and it stays in focus?

The mount looks just like the one I have. I think the problem is the camera I have only has a 1/3" sensor.

12 minutes ago, rjenkinsgb said:

It looks like Amscope sell C mount adapters for the trinocular microscope:

https://amscope.co.uk/collections/adapters

I realise Amscope sell the adaptors, for £67, but they are only about £13 on Aliexpress (IF you find the right one).

[rjenkinsgb]

Lensless camera bodies themselves, whether C mount or SLR etc. just have exposed optical sensors (when the shutter is open, on an SLR); whether the image stays focussed when zooming is down to the external optics.

Edited November 22, 2024 by rjenkinsgb
Trypo

[gpraceman]

This is my setup:

Camera - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800889866423.html

0.35X Mount - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832823671184.html

Spacer - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805199196641.html

My complaint is that the field of view is much less than what you see through the eyepieces.  But that's an issue with fitting a rectangle into a circle without getting clipping on the corners, due to the rectangular image sensor of the camera.  So, when viewing a whole usual sized movement in the eyepieces the camera only sees a partial movement.  That's a nuisance if I want to photograph or record.

I do think that I want to try a 0.5X or 1.0X mount and see what the field of view is like.  I don't mind having clipping on the corners as long as I can approximate the field of view of the eyepieces.  Not sure if there will be any distortion or other effects along the edges.

I have a cell phone adapter that fits onto an eyepiece and that gives me a circular image but I have to mount, adjust and unmount it which is rather a bother.

[mikepilk]

29 minutes ago, gpraceman said:

This is my setup:

Camera - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800889866423.html

0.35X Mount - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832823671184.html

Spacer - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805199196641.html

My complaint is that the field of view is much less than what you see through the eyepieces.  But that's an issue with fitting a rectangle into a circle without getting clipping on the corners, due to the rectangular image sensor of the camera.  So, when viewing a whole usual sized movement in the eyepieces the camera only sees a partial movement.  That's a nuisance if I want to photograph or record.

What's it like when you zoom in, in is bright enough?

When buying a normal camera, everyone looks for lots of MegaPixels with small pixel size e.g. 1.25 um, but from the little reading I've been doing, it seems fewer but larger pixels are better for microscope cameras, as they capture more light as you zoom in. 4 to 6um seems optimal.

My camera is 2MP. I run my monitor at HD 1920 x 1080 which is 2MP, so I didn't see much point in getting a bigger camera. The sensor is only 1/3", so I might benefit from a larger sensor, but still only 2-4MP, so the pixels are larger.

Zoomed out, the FOV in the 10x eyepieces (0.5x Barlow) is about 65mm. With my camera on a 0.35x Barlow, (I'm still waiting for the correct spacer) the image is  about 48 x 27 mm.

 

 

 

[GuyMontag]

3 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

What's it like when you zoom in, in is bright enough?

When buying a normal camera, everyone looks for lots of MegaPixels with small pixel size e.g. 1.25 um, but from the little reading I've been doing, it seems fewer but larger pixels are better for microscope cameras, as they capture more light as you zoom in. 4 to 6um seems optimal.

My camera is 2MP. I run my monitor at HD 1920 x 1080 which is 2MP, so I didn't see much point in getting a bigger camera. The sensor is only 1/3", so I might benefit from a larger sensor, but still only 2-4MP, so the pixels are larger.

Zoomed out, the FOV in the 10x eyepieces (0.5x Barlow) is about 65mm. With my camera on a 0.35x Barlow, (I'm still waiting for the correct spacer) the image is  about 48 x 27 mm.

 

 

 

If it gets too dark when you zoom in you should be able to increase the exposure/brightness using the remote or menu. When I was using one of these types of cameras I would have to increase and decrease the exposure every time I zoomed in or out. Annoying but doable.
 

I switched from one of these dedicated microscope cameras to a Sony A6300, a mirrorless camera. The image quality is much better but one of the biggest benefits comes from the larger image sensor; the larger sensor captures more light giving an increased sensitivity and an increased dynamic range. What that means is that when I zoom in and the image is perfectly exposed, if I now zoom out the image isn't blown out, like it would be on the dedicated microscope camera. Also, when you set the exposure (how bright you want the image), if you zoom in or out the camera automatically adjust the brightness to keep it where you set it.

[gpraceman]

33 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

What's it like when you zoom in, in is bright enough?

When buying a normal camera, everyone looks for lots of MegaPixels with small pixel size e.g. 1.25 um, but from the little reading I've been doing, it seems fewer but larger pixels are better for microscope cameras, as they capture more light as you zoom in. 4 to 6um seems optimal.

My camera is 2MP. I run my monitor at HD 1920 x 1080 which is 2MP, so I didn't see much point in getting a bigger camera. The sensor is only 1/3", so I might benefit from a larger sensor, but still only 2-4MP, so the pixels are larger.

Zoomed out, the FOV in the 10x eyepieces (0.5x Barlow) is about 65mm. With my camera on a 0.35x Barlow, (I'm still waiting for the correct spacer) the image is  about 48 x 27 mm.

There is a limit to benefit of more and more MP's.  Basically, 2 MP - 5 MP is sufficient.  Anything above that will not provide better image quality.

 

[gpraceman]

On 11/22/2024 at 10:21 AM, gpraceman said:

I do think that I want to try a 0.5X or 1.0X mount and see what the field of view is like.  I don't mind having clipping on the corners as long as I can approximate the field of view of the eyepieces.  Not sure if there will be any distortion or other effects along the edges.

Actually, I need to go the other direction with it.  Something like a 0.2X mount.  But I cannot find anything lower than 0.35X.