Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

 

Picked this up in eBay for $15 and overall a pretty nice restoration project. First problem however is getting the movement out. I've looked under magnification and don't see any way to slip even a razor blade between the caseback and case, so I'm assuming the movement comes out some other way. I've tried lifting the cystal off with my crystal remover but abandoned this for fear of scratching the case. I've looked through the forum for advice, did see one thread about Benrus in general but honestly couldn't follow it and not sure it applied to my particular watch. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated since once opened and cleaned and returned to the case, this shoudl be a sweet little vintage piece (the band is original as well, mark Benrus 1/20 GF and in excellent condition). 

Photo on 6-6-22 at 8.27 PM.jpg

Photo on 6-6-22 at 8.27 PM #2.jpg

Photo on 6-6-22 at 8.27 PM #3.jpg

benrus.jpeg

Posted

I have a Benrus that looks to have a similar style case and you have to pull the crown off (it's a split stem) and then push on the crystal which will drop the movement out of the back.

 

Benrus-1.thumb.jpg.d0b17eef327b051d4632c0226295bd5c.jpg

Benrus-2.jpg.bac8124ebc4071a078467f276408918b.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
48 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

I have a Benrus that looks to have a similar style case and you have to pull the crown off (it's a split stem) and then push on the crystal which will drop the movement out of the back.

 

Benrus-1.thumb.jpg.d0b17eef327b051d4632c0226295bd5c.jpg

Benrus-2.jpg.bac8124ebc4071a078467f276408918b.jpg

Is the caseback snapped on guy ?

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

I have a Benrus that looks to have a similar style case and you have to pull the crown off (it's a split stem) and then push on the crystal which will drop the movement out of the back.

 

Benrus-1.thumb.jpg.d0b17eef327b051d4632c0226295bd5c.jpg

Benrus-2.jpg.bac8124ebc4071a078467f276408918b.jpg

Yup. that is exactly it. I was able to pull the crown off without damaging it (first time i ever encountered a split stem and a bit nerve wracking). Used a cystal/case press to push the case movement off from the case. 

Now on to the crystal and getting the movement actually out of the caseback.

Photo on 6-7-22 at 4.50 AM.jpg

Photo on 6-7-22 at 4.49 AM.jpg

Photo on 6-7-22 at 4.50 AM #2.jpg

Edited by Levine98
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Is the caseback snapped on guy ?

No, you push the case out appying pressure from the crystal side after releasing the split stem. I had to use a press to push it out (crystal side up, pushing down).  Once it is out, you remove a very thin ring that surrounds the crystal and the movement just falls out from the case. I suspect if the one i bought hadn't so much crud/corrosion, it would have been easy to extract. 

I was able to totally get the movement out this morning, dial off etc. Turns out there is a rather nice ETA 1080 in there that is in very good shape (and ticking no less once I was release from the cae).

Photo on 6-7-22 at 7.30 AM.jpg

Photo on 6-7-22 at 7.29 AM.jpg

Edited by Levine98
  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, Levine98 said:

No, you push the case out appying pressure from the crystal side after releasing the split stem. I had to use a press to push it out (crystal side up, pushing down).  Once it is out, you remove a very thin ring that surrounds the crystal and the movement just falls out from the case. I suspect if the one i bought hadn't so much crud/corrosion, it would have been easy to extract. 

I was able to totally get the movement out this morning, dial off etc. Turns out there is a rather nice ETA 1080 in there that is in very good shape (and ticking no less once I was release from the cae).

Photo on 6-7-22 at 7.30 AM.jpg

Photo on 6-7-22 at 7.29 AM.jpg

Amazing since the case is in a right state. 

2 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Amazing since the case is in a right state. 

Where's the hour wheel, is it stuck to the dial?  Is the cannon pinion missing too?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Mike I did a ships clock a long while ago, not a Hermle though and without getting the beast in my hands to refresh my memory I can’t recall the timing.  This doesn’t help I know but will start the grey matter turning.
    • Of course it will continue Richard.
    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
×
×
  • Create New...