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Proxxon multitool to replace crappy Dremel?

LittleWatchShop

By LittleWatchShop
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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

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I have several Dremel multitools and one of them is mounted on the dremel drill press for drilling holes.  Not exactly a watchmaking tool, but I have needed to drill fine holes in my little world of horology and it really sucks.  Vibration and runout are quite poor.

I am investigating getting a Proxxon FBS multitool.  Anybody here with some experience using this tool?

 

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nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

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I don't know the exact model but I have a Proxxon I got 15-16 years ago, switched from collets to "drill chuck", runs true and problem free. Last 5 years or so it was used by multiple people each day, hours each day. Amazing quality for the money, even at 3x the price. I had a Dremel as a kid, Dremel is a toy compared to Proxxon. Don't know how they do it and make money.

 

I have a high dollar hand piece "micomotor" too, it's fixed at 3/32" for normal burrs and stuff, gets way less use.

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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15 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Not exactly a watchmaking tool, but I have needed to drill fine holes in my little world of horology and it really sucks.

If it is precise, one off holes, the really watchmaking way to drill is with the lathe. You will need a clasping faceplate to hold most parts however, and that is expensive. 

Also precision, small drill presseae are expensive and hard to find. I have a couple of cheap Chinese presses on my wish list, but didn't gi on with the purchase so far. You typically buy the motor separately for these.

 

15 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I am investigating getting a Proxxon FBS multitool.  Anybody here with some experience using this tool?

I have that, in the long neck version. It's arguably better than a Dremel, but won't solve precise drilling. The quality is OK, I have abused it for years including cylinder head porting before the power board finally gave up and is currently waiting for replacent or repair. In the meanwhile I got a cheap Chinese rotary tool, a full set of collets and accessories for one the price. And it does its job just fine as well. 

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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

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5 minutes ago, jdm said:

If it is precise, one off holes, the really watchmaking way to drill is with the lathe.

I do some drilling with the lathe, but I do not have the faceplate you describe...just did it by hand...very very crude.

I have ordered one and will report on my findings!

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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16 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I do some drilling with the lathe, but I do not have the faceplate you describe...just did it by hand...very very crude.

I have ordered one and will report on my findings!

Probably you have bought a vintage real deal but for the casual reader here a link to the Chinese version https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Jaw-Face-Plate-Disk-Chuck-for-8mm-Watchmaker-Lathe/403407905491

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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

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Just now, jdm said:

Probably you have bought a vintage real deal but for the casual reader here a link to the Chinese version https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Jaw-Face-Plate-Disk-Chuck-for-8mm-Watchmaker-Lathe/403407905491

Oh!  I have two of those.  One I bought on ebay for about $75 as I recall, and the other came with that watch bench full of stuff I posted about several weeks ago.  Neither came with the centering pin, however.

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Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

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1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

I don't know the exact model but I have a Proxxon I got 15-16 years ago, switched from collets to "drill chuck", runs true and problem free. Last 5 years or so it was used by multiple people each day, hours each day. Amazing quality for the money, even at 3x the price. I had a Dremel as a kid, Dremel is a toy compared to Proxxon. Don't know how they do it and make money.

 

I have a high dollar hand piece "micomotor" too, it's fixed at 3/32" for normal burrs and stuff, gets way less use.

Proxxon is good gear for the price, a mate has one for making dolls house furniture it will drill down to 1mm he paid under 200 quid for it. Its accurate for his use , wasn't sure about watch repair though. If so I know they also do a drill and milling machine, I might price one up. 

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HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

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3 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I have a high dollar hand piece "micomotor" too, it's fixed at 3/32" for normal burrs and stuff, gets way less use.

That sounds like a dental micromotor.

I had a Dremel tool many years ago for drilling pcbs. It does the job but I didn't like the vibration and noise.

I have several dental micromotors now. Some for clinical use and some for lab use. Dental micromotors are different from "multitools" in that they have "torque feedback". With normal multitools, there isn't much torque when running at low rpm. But dental micromotors have a feedback circuit that increases power to the motor when the load increases, thus maintaining a constant rpm.

I have a few vintage ones from the '80s and things back then were really made to last. These are coming home with me when I retire.

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Sirius Member

Sirius

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i  have a Proxxon IBS and would prefer it instead of the FBS

the Neck with 20mm allows easy mounting for whatever (i use it on my Lathe, not Watchmaker Lathe...)

Disadvantage is no Chuck, only the Proxxon Collets....

 

regards,

Ernst

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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13 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Oh!  I have two of those.

So what's the chuck you've bought now?

 

10 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

To be clear, my plan is not to use it directly on watches or clocks.  I use it when I am making things that are used in the watch shop...tools...jigs, etc.

For that I recommend that you buy a smallish bench drill press, preferably quality, and that can accomodate a cross table.

 

9 hours ago, Sirius said:

the Neck with 20mm allows easy mounting for whatever (i use it on my Lathe, not Watchmaker Lathe...)

Yes, that's a nice plus.

9 hours ago, Sirius said:

Disadvantage is no Chuck, only the Proxxon Collets....

In a pinch, us a small chuck with a 3.25mm straight shank that you can fit to a collet.

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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

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43 minutes ago, jdm said:

So what's the chuck you've bought now?

I think I have created some confusion...here I am referring to the two faceplates that I acquired.  When you first mentioned "faceplate" I said I did not have one, but I misspoke (the name threw me off).

But if you are referring to which Proxxon I bought...I bought the FBS/115.

45 minutes ago, jdm said:

For that I recommend that you buy a smallish bench drill press, preferably quality, and that can accomodate a cross table.

I have a larger benchtop drill press.  It is a Harbor Freight brand (i.e., Chinese).  I use it for coarse work.

1 hour ago, jdm said:

Yes, that's a nice plus.

I think the neck on the FBS is the same, but I will know for sure when it arrives next week.

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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3 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I have a larger benchtop drill press.  It is a Harbor Freight brand (i.e., Chinese).  I use it for coarse work.

Then you have all what is needed. A big machine, adjusted and used correctly works just fine on small parts. Check if there is any play in the quill, on mine there was and it rattled at any speed, I shimmed it sliding a feeler gauge between the two cylinders and now is silent and smooth. There are better chucks that you can replaces like the below, the description doesn't say but are the precision line from a major maker. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002061403983.html

Or even better, a quality a keyless chuck. Then you can easily check the runout with a magnetic base and indicator.

The cross table could be like the below. https://aliexpress.com/item/4000241471577.html

Invest in a full set of quality drills and other accessories, orientable lighted lens etc, there will be very little work that you won't be able to undertake.

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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

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15 minutes ago, jdm said:

I shimmed it sliding a feeler gauge between the two cylinders and now is silent and smooth

Hmmm...I must investigate this!!!

23 minutes ago, jdm said:

The cross table could be like the below

Ordered!

 

46 minutes ago, jdm said:

I shimmed it sliding

Maybe you could direct me to where you did the shimming??

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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6 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Maybe you could direct me to where you did the shimming??

It's hard to explain without seeing it taken to parts. But if your doesn't do strange noises or vibrations you don't have to worry.

Sorry if I sound repetitive but the drill press is one of the most useful tools ever. The stepped pulley are a blessing to get the right speed and torque, use them. If you need to cut a slot or big hole, drill close holes, then finish with a fret saw and file. If an hole on whatever object is a bit off or holes overlaps (could be the case above), grind a drill bit to a flat tip, sharpen the cutting edges imitating and end mill and you will be able to drill on rounded or irregular urfaces. Leave a brass wire wheel in the chuck all the time to clean up whatever around. Place a tap guide to thread straight and easy. I'm sure there are other bazillion uses. Just don't try to do milling with it, because drill chucks aren't made to take side forces. But if the machines is beefy enough, you are able to fit a collet chuck, and have a cross table, you could even do light cuts on soft materials.

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