Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Providing the stem is not broken/bent then it is not inserting completely. There should be a push point somewhere in line with the stem that is pushed while inserting. A pic would be helpful. I have posted two examples (Seiko,s) just to give an idea what you are looking for.

If it has not got a push area it might be a screw type release which is a tiny screw located either to the left or right of the stem that will have to be turned approx. 3/4 to insert then tightened when inserted. (Warning don't turn it to much because if it releases the setting lever underneath the watch dial will have to come off to re-attach)

 

post-234-0-46484100-1433222771.png

 

post-234-0-46884200-1433222781.png

Posted

Hi Chris,

 

From what you describe is seems that the set lever has jumped out of its groove in the clutch wheel.

 

To fix this the correct way will require you to.....

 

1. Remove stem

2. Remove movement from case.

3. Remove hands

4. Remove dial

5. Remove day and date wheels if fitted.

5. Remove set lever bridge

6. get the set lever back in the clutch wheel groove

 

assemble in the reverse order.

 

The not so correct way would be to remove the barrel bridge and try to get the set lever back in its groove.. understand that the lever is on the side away from you. Easier on some movements than others. A delicate touch is required because if you dislodge the set lever spring you're back where you started and need to get the dial off.

 

Pics of the movement would help.

 

Anil

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Chris,

From what you describe is seems that the set lever has jumped out of its groove in the clutch wheel.

To fix this the correct way will require you to.....

1. Remove stem

2. Remove movement from case.

3. Remove hands

4. Remove dial

5. Remove day and date wheels if fitted.

5. Remove set lever bridge

6. get the set lever back in the clutch wheel groove

assemble in the reverse order.

The not so correct way would be to remove the barrel bridge and try to get the set lever back in its groove.. understand that the lever is on the side away from you. Easier on some movements than others. A delicate touch is required because if you dislodge the set lever spring you're back where you started and need to get the dial off.

Pics of the movement would help.

Anil

Exactly what I have to do on my Seiko 7s36-00m0. Thanks.
Posted

In my humble apprentice opinion, the fact the stem does not stay in the watch tells me the stem is not completely inserted, so I think he needs to resolve that issue before tearing the movement apart. If he is not getting the stem past the retention mechanism, then it will always act as if the crown is pulled out in setting mode. Use Clockboy's image to find the stem release method for your watch.

 

If the stem stayed in, then I would agree the keyless works is in need of attention.

 

Agreed with everyone, a picture of the movement is required, along with the stem

Posted

The Sekonda and the Slava movement all have that problem .It's the setting lever that jumps off . Sorry to say but you have to remove the dial and reset the lever and spring . The only way to make it not happen is to press down on the setting lever button when you put back the stem . i have work on lots of sekonda end Slava movements . They are easy to service put that is a problem . 

  • Like 1
Posted

The Sekonda and the Slava movement all have that problem .It's the setting lever that jumps off . Sorry to say but you have to remove the dial and reset the lever and spring . The only way to make it not happen is to press down on the setting lever button when you put back the stem . i have work on lots of sekonda end Slava movements . They are easy to service put that is a problem .

Same happened to my 2427.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Very interesting! I answered the mail from Longines, explaining that I was a bit disappointed and that I wouldn't ask for a costly confirmation for a watch which isn't a high-end one ... and I received another email explaining that they couldn't not certify the authenticity of the watch, but they could specify that, according to the serial number on the caliber and to their handwritten records, the watch was produced in 1938. Great! @Mercurial I will take the measurements and will keep you informed. Thank you all. This forum is incredible 👍
    • Good stuff, thanks!!!  I'm going to save it and re-read your post and watch the video again.  I have a few follow-up question:  My understanding is that the spring vibrates or breathes between the the two regulator pins. When the pins are fully open the effective spring length is from the stud and theoretically no rate adjustment can be made by moving the regulator arm. As the pins are closed the spring gets closer to one side of the regulator block but doesn't touch a pin. You can still move the regulator carrier the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils.  The rate can now be adjusted using the regulator because the effective spring length can be modified.  My question is: Does the hairspring bounce off and touch one of the pins as it breathes? Is that why the effective hairspring length is adjusted by moving the regulator?  And follow-up: How is amplitude affected by the spring between the pins? Does fully open pins, dial up position = max amplitude?  When spring adjusted to 1/2 width still = max amplitude? When I have crown down gravity is pulling the spring against one of the pins and I would expect rate to go up and amplitude to go down. Is that correct?
    • A quick Google for Longines 25.17 found several similar watches - like this one with writing on the case back similar to yours https://benjaminmarcello.nl/product/longines-cal-25-17-tank-from-1938/
    • Apps like Watch Accuracy Meter can be inaccurate, and will read some watches better than others.  What daily rate does Watch Accuracy Meter give you if you check the Longines once it’s been running for 24 hours? Best Regards, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...